Hello everyone. I hope you all have had a great holiday season. My Christmas was wonderfully uneventful. We stayed close to home and enjoyed time with our little guy.
Though I received a number of very nice presents, my fantastic wife hit the nail on its proverbial head with a classic Beaufort coat from Barbour. It had been on my master "someday" list for a few years, so I am very happy to now cross it off. I'll be wearing this thing every day of the week.
My main gift to her was a bottle of Bravura from Chateau St. Julien, in Carmel, California. It's a limited edition Bordeaux style blend that I sampled during a recent visit to the winery. It tasted like France - Beaune, specifically.
I'm working on a couple of special projects for OTC, so stayed tuned for another exciting year. If you have a minute, let me know what special gift you received or gave this year.
What about New Year's resolutions? How about OTC, what would you like to see here? My goal is always to provide useful infomraiton - so what would you like to know about?
(E-mailed to offthecuffdc@comcast.net)Dear Off The Cuff,Please help. I told my husband that this really didn't look right. Pin strip suit with a tie that has little boxes on it. Oh no. If you had only seen him in Union Station!Thanks for the help,Desperate Wife
Jeans. For some people they symbolize lazy weekends; perhaps paired with your favorite old tee shirt and beat up sneakers. Perfect for washing the car or walking the dog. For others they connote urban hip; the ultimate counter play to formal office wear.
Ralph Lauren once made news when he wore jeans with his dinner jacket to receive a major award. Far from being social faux pas though, it was instantly understood to be a very “Ralph Lauren” look and launched a thousand failed imitators. What he made look sharp and fashionable most people simply butcher.Jeans can be dressed up, but never make the mistake of thinking they can replace dress trousers, suit pants or, god forbid, tuxedo pants. People in the fashion business can get away with such things because they are in the fashion business and to their peers this is messing with the vernacular in a creative sort of way. Everyone else, myself included, should tread lightly when it comes to bringing jeans into the office.
Still, it is possible to dress up jeans for work, a nice dinner, or cocktail party. Just focus on some key rules.You should own at least one pair of dark blue jeans; they are timeless and the most versatile type you can own. Dark blue jeans can be dressed up with a collared shirt, sports coat and brogues, or dressed down with a tee shirt, cashmere crew neck sweater and moccasins.
Remember this: even though they are just jeans, they should still fit you. I read a very funny article recently about “dad jeans,” which highlighted the sad fact that over the years most guys fail to buy new jeans and instead perpetrate a self-delusional myth that their favorites will always fit. They don’t; and while the jeans may stay in top form, you dear reader will probably not and it will show.Although there are all sorts of fits and cuts, the best bet is still a basic strait leg version. It should sit at your natural hip and have a nice moderate break over your shoes. Alternately, you can wear them rolled up a bit for a preppy take or tailored to exactly hit the top of your shoe. Whatever your choice, they should look comfortable and trim but not tight; certainly not baggy and low-hanging. As with most things in life, simple is often better.
Dark jeans in particular lend themselves to more dressed-up outfits. They can carry off dressy casual better than their stonewashed or “vintage” brethren because of their inherent sophistication. In most outfits a good pair of dark blue jeans provides great texture and personality. Of course, if you want a laid back casual preppy look, most distressed and faded styles work fine as long as you stick with well-fitting strait leg models.
For the winter months, try pairing your jeans with a high quality dress shirt and sport coat – tweed or corduroy look great. Throw a vest in between to add some warmth as well as style. Trim jeans can carry off dress shoes particularly well. The juxtaposition of elegant leather footwear and rugged denim is very attractive.
For a more outdoorsy look, swap out the fine footwear for classic L.L. Bean Maine hunting boots. As noted above, jeans and sweaters are always a great mix.By approaching a good pair of jeans as a part of your wardrobe and not just something thrown in the corner, you will get more out of this versatile workhorse.
I recently talked about the of v-neck sweaters, one of your cold weather wardrobe’s most versatile tools. It is, however, not the only option when it comes to lightweight or mid-weight sweaters. The other option is of course the standard against which all sweaters are measured – the crewneck sweater.The crewneck sweater is a classic staple of men’s wardrobes everywhere. Based on the most basic of stylistic designs, this woven outer shirt is about as strait forward as a garment can be. And to me that is its enduring benefit; it can work with almost any outfit and easily be paired with jeans or grey flannels.
A good crewneck should have a lightly fitted body and trim arms, but not too tight. The hem of the sweater should sit at your waist with room to allow for sitting, stretching etc., but should not blouse over the ribbed bottom. This effect is unattractive on anyone and gives the impression that either you don’t know you own size (legitimately, a common and unfortunate problem for many guys) or that borrowed someone else’s sweater. Neither impression is a positive one.The sweater should fit comfortably over an oxford shirt yet still allow for easy movement while maintaining a close fit. I like my sweater’s arms to either run a touch long so that I can turn back a good amount of cuff or end right at the wrist and allow some shirt sleeve to show. Anything in between tends to look out of proportion on me.
Modern fit (Zanone)The neck is an area that merits additional attention. Some makers have neck lines that appear designed to strangle anyone foolish enough to stick their head through, while others seem to feel that wide gaping holes are somehow attractive. The ideal is a neck that allows the collar of your shirt to sit comfortably within, while the sweater itself offers a clean, firm neck hole that won’t easily lose its shape.
A good neckRegarding fabrics, lamb’s wool is a solid standby and tends to be the most affordable of classic sweater materials. It is light and warm but rough enough to avoid being particularly formal. Merino wool is an excellent material and many of my favorite sweaters are made of merino. But by almost anyone’s standard, cashmere is really the gold standard. One- or two-ply is more than enough for the average office dweller. Three-ply cashmere sweaters are often hawked this time of year, but don’t fall for it. Pictures of handsome people frolicking in snowy New England winters do no good while you are sweating up a storm in your climate controlled office building – every day.
J. Press (t) & J. Crew (b)When it comes to looks and construction, there are many different styles of crewnecks; from simple to elaborate, paper thin to bomb proof. After much thought, I have concluded that there are only two really useful styles: flat knit and cabled in solid colors.A few years ago, during an after-Christmas sale, I came across a beautiful, chunky lamb’s wool Irish fisherman style sweater. It was a steal and I bought it. It didn’t take me long to realize that I couldn’t wear the thing anywhere except outside on a cold day. It weighed a ton and trapped too much heat. The upshot? Unless you actually are an Irish fisherman or really do work outside, give this heavy style a pass.A mid- or lightweight cabled sweater is a much better choice and is simply more usable. You can find them in every color under the sun; from preppy primaries to English heathers. Classics brands like Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Ralph Lauren and J. Crew offer a wide variety of this timeless model and each maker has its own take on the classic shape. Where Brooks’ might run a little roomy, like its oxfords, J. Crew is likely more fitted.
The same goes for flat knit sweaters. These seamless, modern versions can give you a more modern look while still hewing to a traditional silhouette. Like the cabled crewneck, they are incredibly versatile and mix well with different materials. Flat knits in particular are good to have around because, if you want to go with a more casual look, they can also act as a grownup sweatshirt – relaxed but not sloppy.
Sweatshirt alternative (Banana Republic)
Younger designers focused on the resurgence of American Ivy League style are just as enamored with crewnecks. Michael Bastian makes a great version and Zanone, part of Italian brand Incotex, makes the washed cashmere version in the top image.
Michael Bastian's (l) take on preppy
Crewnecks also adapt well to layering, though don’t work as well as a v-neck if you want to sport a tie underneath. Like most pieces of classic preppy clothing, crewneck sweaters are a smart investment that will be in style long after their better days are behind them. But, that’s the charm of classic clothes: they get better with age.
Though I have not written about it too much, I am a very customer service focused person. Having spent years in high-end retail and now the association business, I know from good customer service.
I also have rather high standards for myself when it comes to helping others and providing personal service; in another life I am sure I was a very good butler. What truly saddens me though,is how often I am disappointed with the lack of basic customer service skills displayed by so many sales people.When approached by a customer, deliberately or not, too many project the the distinct attitude of being rudely interrupted - even if they were just staring at a wall. Deep down they do not want to actually help you; they want you to leave them alone. This is a major character flaw in too many sales people who really should be working as far away from other people as possible.
Often this rings true for high-end stores as well. The difference here is that these rarefied staffers simply feel they are better than many of their customers. The have embodied the luxury brand for which they work to such a degree that, in their minds, you - the mere customer - are of a lesser class. It's a variation of the Helsinki Syndrome, but instead of kidnapping terrorists, the person is identifying with, say, a luxury French harness maker.
Of course, many people who work in retail are wonderful individuals who have a natural desire to help others; to simply be of service. Mary Louise Starkey, founder of the exclusive household staffing agency Starkey International, calls it "service heart." If you have it, you have it; and if you don't, it's very hard to develop from the outside in. When I run across people who embody such natural service personalities I take note; and yesterday it happened twice.
What makes this interesting is that it happened at opposite ends of the retail economic spectrum: Ralph Lauren and Wal Mart. At Wal Mart I was assisted by a young lady who went out of her way to track down the key to a locked display. At one point I thought she had abandoned me; actually she had gone to locate a manager at the other end of the store and then worked her way back to me through the crowds.
She was professional and patient though clearly frustrated that I was being inconvenienced since the employee who should have been helping me was nowhere to be found. Once I had what I needed she took me to a side register and rang me up herself.
While that was a wonderful example of attention, patience, and follow-through; my Ralph Lauren experience is one of detail. When I walked into the large flagship store in swanky Chevy Chase, I was immediately met by a small cluster of sales people bunched together chatting about store issues. They were not rude, mind you, just otherwise engaged. Over his shoulder, one young man said hello and went back to his discussion. I felt like I was walking into some one's house unannounced and interrupting a family gathering.
I then strolled into into the rear section of the store and was quickly greeted by another young gentleman. He had been folding some clothes but stopped when I came in. Noticing I had two heavy looking bags he immediately asked if I would like him to store them securely while I walked around. I said, "yes, thank you," and set about looking for a present for my wife.
What struck me most was that his actions were natural. He instinctively looked for a way to make my visit more comfortable and (of course) to put me in a purchasing mood. When I eventually picked up my bags, he was equally gracious even though another sales person had actually helped me with a purchase.
When I return to that Ralph Lauren store, I will make a point to look for him because he made a point of looking after me when he did not necessarily have to. That is innate customer service.
As you may have noticed recently, my posts have not been as picture heavy as usual. While I would like to say that this is because I want Off The Cuff DC's readers to better appreciate my exceptional writing skills, the reality is that I have been having some uploading issues with Blogger.com.Once I get this sorted out, the posts should be back to normal. Until then, enjoy the reading!
This past summer, an interesting article appeared in the International Herald Tribune about how employees at Eni, Italy’s largest power company, agreed to shed their ties and cut back on air conditioning in an effort to help fight global warming.
The company’s Rome and Milan offices began a tentative experiment in what it called, “lighter and cooler office attire.” It was by all accounts a success, though employees made it very clear that expected to return to proper clothing as the weather cooled into autumn.
Italians ditching their ties, are you kidding? Those often fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for an entire summer? Well, if nothing else, you can bet the loss of a mere tie did not send office standards into a sartorial tailspin as it has in too many offices across America. Tie or no tie, Italians have standards.
This article, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, is actually an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. In fact, it is a great teaching moment: focusing on style actually helps the environment – as it should.
Put simply, when you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is also well thought out. When you consciously consider what to buy and carefully edit your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that will just wind up in a landfill by the end of the year.
Everyday clothing is now relatively cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of sourcing, manufacturing, packaging, transporting, storing, selling, and eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.
As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage space, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.
Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are all factors you should consider when making any purchase.
Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that you will just throw out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While more expensive than off-the-rack, a well made custom suit will last for years. A classic cut can transcend fashion and a good tailor can make adjustments as your dimensions change over time.
By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste and duplication. Which brings me back to the Italians; I have no fear of track pants and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milan. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe for any weather, it is an Italian.
Hello everyone. I hope you all have had a great holiday season. My Christmas was wonderfully uneventful. We stayed close to home and enjoyed time with our little guy.
