Keeping Your Keys Together

Keys are one of the few universal items that pretty much everyone has to deal with at some point. We may have electronic key cards in the office, but to drive a car, get into the house, or just unlock a gym locker you still need a plain old key. Actually holding on to those keys is another universal headache that regardless of culture or politics, demands the ubiquitous key ring or key chain.

This topic actually came up as reader comment in response to one of my first MensFlair columns on accessories. I had not included key chains and the reader asked if they would be affected by fashion cycles just like other accessories. It was an interesting question that I have occasionally mulled over since. Though belated, here are my thoughts on key chains.

In my opinion, key chains are not particularly influenced by fashion cycles; however, I would say that they are affected by broader social and design trends. For example, the key cases which were popular for decades appear to have all but vanished from the market. I can’t recall the last time I laid eyes on one. The key chain itself however – the functional object - remains. This is too bad as the key case really is an elegantly functional way to organize and house your key collection.

Why the change in demand? There are many reasons to be sure, not the least of which is the over-sized smart car keys so many of us now sport. They just don't fit in the case. Perhaps it's all the scanning hang tags now dangling off key rings everywhere. Whatever the cause, progress, technological change, and simple needs often trump fashion.

Generally, I would say that men tend to favor key chains that are simple but also reflect a little personality. In the States, classics like the braided leather loop and preppy "tie" versions are always pretty popular.

The latter has a fob of summer belting shaped like a loop; the kind with signal flags that spell out "Martha’s Vineyard," or whatnot. Like any other personal object, a key chain says something about the keys owner. In this case, it implies a sunny, sandy and privileged lifestyle.

And why not? Whenever I see a naked key ring, I feel a bit sad. An interesting fob or some other unique moniker says, "start here," when it comes to personal style. Keys themselves are anonymous, key rings should not be.

I think the key - pun intended - is to have something neither ostentatious nor pedestrian. For the captains of industry, Tiffany & Co. is the master of simple elegance. Ralph Lauren has some wonderful key chains that speak to the easy landed gentry’s lifestyle: lots of leather and brass. Key chains can be found that reflect personal interests too: mountain climbing carabineers, miniature ship lanterns, and even tiny golf clubs.

For the aspirational among us, it is easy to get a hold of BMW, Mercedes, or Ferrari logoed versions. Even brands supposedly above such crass commercialism like Rolls Royce let you buy a piece of the myth. Of course, if you’re using it to impress a certain someone, you still need to come up with the matching car at some point.

Real Style is Always in the Details

In this column, I decided to forego the traditional “best gift” or “best men’s stores” schtick. Besides, you’ll be seeing that “best whatever” type of thing all over the place and while these lists can be entertaining, for the most part they just encourage you to buy more stuff you don’t need. Rather, we’re going to talk about the little icons of personal style, watches, pens, and cufflinks – those personal accessories that most truly reflect who we are.

When I think of details making a difference, I always remember a particular college professor I had. He was a young guy with tons of style in that moody, intellectual way. Every day, he came in wearing some great outfit and he had this perfect bag that looked like one of those beat-up dispatch cases you always see in the movies but can’t actually find anywhere. Inside he carried antique pens in a double pen case, these great European notebooks, journals and all sorts of other interesting stuff. That guy had style because he paid attention to the details. And, of course, the girls loved him. He knew that his carefully chosen accessories spoke volumes about who he was before he even opened his mouth.

Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe's classic ad campaign, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” is a favorite of mine for a couple of reasons. First, the message behind the ad is that certain things in your life, truly personal objects that have meaning beyond their mere function, should never be disposable. Second, because of their very nature, these types of personal tools and accessories are often expensive. For those of you familiar with Patek Philippe, you know that’s a major understatement.

These small, seemingly innocuous things are far more defining than we give them credit for. Literally speaking, they are valuable because they cost us something. In an emotional sense they are valuable because they’re cherished.

Now, I happen to like nice pens. When using a fountain pen, I feel like I am composing a letter, rather than just writing out some words. Pens from makers like Mont Blanc, Omas, Parker or Pelikan aren’t just writing tools, they are an expression of style and personality. Fountain pens in particular are favorites of collectors, executives and those who simply don’t want to forget the purest form of communication – ink on paper. Yes, using a fountain pen takes more effort than typing on a keyboard, but therein lies its charm. There are several excellent pen shops in the DC area, including Fahrney’s, which has served the nation's capital since 1929.

While to some a shirt is just a shirt, many American men are finally coming to appreciate the distinctive swagger of a French cuffed, spread collar creation from Thomas Pink or Charles Tyrwhitt. If you’re making the switch, you’ll need cuff links. For men, this is an opportunity to show some real personality. From simple silk knots to literal works of art in precious metals, you’ll always want to add more to your collection. A great pair of cufflinks can be found in almost all price ranges, from presidential seal inspired eagles at the White House Gift shop ($30) to beautiful gold and enamel handmade creations at Tiffany & Co. ($2,000). Looking for something imaginative? Take New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg’s route and go for recycled subway tokens.

The piece of jewelry most every man does wear is a watch. And right now, watches are big. Literally. If you look at almost any magazine or celebrity’s wrist, chunky, glitzy watches are de rigeur. Some, like Franck Muller’s fantastic timepieces, can cost the same as a pair of Mercedes. The aforementioned Patek Philippe watches are so sought after by collectors, they have their own secondary auction market. For the rest of us, there are plenty of excellent options. A good watch should be viewed as an investment, so save up and get something that will stand the test of style and time. A truly timeless Cartier Tank watch can run you around $6,000 but will still be classy well into the next generation. On the other hand, Raymond Weil’s Parsifal watch is a substantial and elegant alternative and at $1,100, will cost you a bit less.

Let me pause here for a moment to comment on something that seems to confuse some guys. As a general rule, sports watches don’t belong with suits. Yes, politicians on the campaign trail often sport a Timex Ironman to remind us that they’re just regular folks too. But unless you’re kissing babies for votes, or actually running a triathlon, leave it in the drawer for the weekend. Remember, just like anything else your watch should fit what you’re wearing.
When you are pickier about the personal items in your life, they take on more meaning. Something else happens too. You wind up with less stuff floating around, but the stuff you do have means something more to you. That’s the important part.

OTC Recommends: The Flat Leather Document Folio

With the holidays so quickly approaching, I’d like to suggest a singular item for your wish list.

While most of us have briefcases and computer bags, many men are at a loss when we just need to carry around some papers or a few folders. The flat leather document folio fills the gap quite nicely.

I’ve written about these before and feel a certain missionary-like need to continue advocating on their behalf. Whether you’re jetting off to Paris or sitting down for a three o’clock staff meeting, your accessories should always be stylish and well thought out. While there are a variety of folio styles, the one with a zipper that opens up on three sides is a favorite of mine – the kind that can lay flat on a table.

True, flat folios have limited space and can never really compete with the functionality of a messenger bag or roomy elegance of a soft sided brief bag. You can’t fit a whole lot inside, but that’s part of the charm. By necessity you are forced to shed most of the stuff you carry around but never really use; simplification by requirement.

What to carry? A pad, a pen, some calling or business cards, and a few important documents should do the job.

OTC Find: Punto (Machine Washable) Cashmere Socks

New York-based British Apparel recently contacted OTC with the news that, along with its Italian partner Punto, they had developed the world's first, 12-month, year-round cashmere socks. And, they are machine washable. Would I like to try out a couple of pair?

Of course I did; not only because I’ve wanted to check out cashmere socks ever since I sold them at $175 a pop for Ralph Lauren way back when, but also because I really wanted to see if they are in fact machine washable. One of the biggest pet peeves I have about these kinds of luxury items is the maintenance factor.

According to British Apparel’s press release, these new socks are, “Hailed The Coziest, Comfiest Socks Ever. British Apparel's Revolutionary New 'All-Season Cashmere Collection' Snubs All Temps, Cuddles Feet In A Cocoon Of Pillow-Soft Cushioning Year-Round. Then, just toss 'em in the washer!”

Cashmere of course is the holy grail of cold weather style. Light and pliable yet warm and silky soft – the last few years have seen every company from Brooks Brothers to Costco hawking their cashmere goods.

Quality and durability wax and wane depending on the maker and some claims while impressive are a little impractical. Anyone who has worn a single- or double-ply cashmere sweater to the office can probably tell you that triple-ply is only needed during arctic expeditions.



But winter is still cashmere's ideal clime and the idea of year-round cashmere socks intrigued me. According to BA, their Punto-made cashmere socks are “Mother Nature's ultimate shock absorbers.”

With that impressive claim in mind, off I went to the daily commute. While I was no less tired at the end of my test week, I have to admit that my cashmere ensconced feet felt great. In fact, what struck me was that they felt so good I never really thought about those socks I was trying out. Not bad at all.

As great as cashmere is, cashmere socks have two well-known problems: one, their fame as winter's one-trick pony, and second, their reputation as being frail and fragile – suitable only for hand washing.

Those two Achilles’ heels have apparently been resolved because I’ve shuttled my Punto socks from washer to dryer several times after days of use and they are just fine. Mind you, I followed the care instructions but I nonetheless pretty well beat them up.



What makes it work? Essentially, Punto's new collection is a hi-tech blend of yarns that combine three hybrid versions of everyday yarns – cashmere, super-soft cotton and a smidgen of hi-performance nylon for stretch, elasticity and long-wear durability. So, technically, they are not cashmere-only socks, no doubt leaving some purists appalled, but I have no problem with a little modern tinkering.

The collection’s 18 colors come in a dress weight and are available in the taller and dressier, over-the-calf silhouette as well as the shorter and sportier, mid-calf height. Retail prices for the socks will run in the range of $55 to $65, respectively.

To buy your own pair, please visit British Apparel's website and online store.

From The OTC Archives: Bow Ties

Mike T. from Scottsdale Arizona recently asked if OTC has ever written about bow ties. Mike has been sporting them for 30 years and I couldn't be happier to hear it.

As a guy from New England, and an Ivy League college town to boot, I know from bow ties. I have long been a big fan and to me they have always represented a shot of jaunty intellectual creativity. So, I dug through the OTC archives and pulled together some thoughts on bow ties.

Just so we're clear, I am taking about the bow ties you actually have to tie yourself. Clip-ons are to me a wasted effort. The imperfection of a self tied tie is what makes it such a personal expression of your own style. The only tie knot that should appear symmetrically flawless is the double Windsor, and that's only because if done correctly it can look no other way.

Southern gentlemen have embraced the bow tie for generations and it seems that the current upsurge in bow tie interest was given birth in the Low Country. My instinctive style guide is finally getting some validation as bow ties are now starting to show up all over the place. Southern gentlemen though seem to have a better understanding of the bow tie's edgier, intellectual capacity. A bow tie takes some guts to wear and, stereotypes notwithstanding, is not for the meek and timid.


About as Southern a bow tie as you can get

Tucker Carlson, the political commentator stopped wearing his trademark bow ties in part because he came to realize that they were viewed as slightly aggressive. Apparently in the tie-wearing world, at least in D.C., they are the sartorial equivalent of daring someone to pick a fight.

The core of the bow tie movement seems to be a particular elevation of the overall trend toward a sense of formality in menswear. We all know this does not mean that every guy out there wants to wear a three piece suit to work. However, if you look across the landscape of men's clothing there is a definite move toward looking better and cleaning up.

This is not new, I've been talking about the trending away from slouchy casual for a while; but in my opinion, it is now taking on more definition. Where the latter 1990s, just before the tech boom, was a boring morass of bland office wear - really, the last clearly defined period of "business dress" as a uniform - we now have a movement that is actively seeking a modern update of classic influences. And it's really a self motivating movement; out of the necessity to appear professional and keep one's job, the desire to get a job or just for the love of dressing well.


Urban cool bow tie

Viewed that way, I would call today's bow tie wearers the modern dandy. Really, this is the perfect compromise for the stylish man of today (or even the man of today who wants to be stylish). Think about it: a dandy, in his original guise, was an individualist during a period of conformity and class stratification.

He was someone who wanted to make a mark of society, turn convention on its head, find a place in the salons and courts of the power players and yet still fall within the general framework of polite society. In essence a dandy is an individualist to whom others are drawn, yet someone who still maintains his own identity.


A handy do-it-yourself guide

I don't know about you, but to me that rather sounds like the personality of today's up and coming entrepreneurs and big thinkers. Of course not all of our future world leaders are going to run out to stock up on bow ties, but many of them are looking to find their version of the power suit, the perfect watch, the best car or the right shoes. And as it happens, they seem to be demanding quality of quantity, substance over flash, and the unique over anonymous.

Style Guide: All About Socks

Several years ago, during the run-up to my wedding, I found myself in the midst of a quandary. My best man and I were locked in sartorial combat over socks; or hosiery, whichever you prefer. At issue was this: should socks match the trouser or should they be left open to personal interpretation? This was no small matter as the deciding vote would affect four groomsmen, the aforementioned best man, and me, the groom. More importantly, at some level it would ultimately affect the whole wedding which for all intents and purposes meant the bride.

Rob, the best man, was unshakable in his assertion that our socks – all our socks – should match our trousers, in this case cream colored gabardines. Along with classic white bucks and navy blazers, we fit in quite nicely with the Connecticut coastline backdrop. Personally, I felt that having the shoes, socks and pants all match would leave me with the nagging feeling that I should be selling ice cream somewhere. This back and forth went on for days until I gave in, told him that I’d go with the white socks and, of course, wore blue ones instead. Honestly, I don’t think anyone even noticed. Except Rob; but I’m now his son’s godfather, so I guess he got over it.



Nonetheless, this is leads us to one of those never ending debates: to match or not? If so, should the socks match one’s shoes or pants? What about winging it and just let your socks be independent statements of fashion?

Though the previous story might lead you to think that I am a near anarchist when it comes to ankle style, such is not really the case. I am more of a stylish moderate. In many cases, it is very appropriate to have your hose blend seamlessly with your trousers. Business suits for example, draw their power from a sense of formality, sobriety even; and novelty or themed socks would be a glaring incongruity. Creating a continuous color theme both elongates the leg when seated and your socks are more visible. It also keeps the focus on the upper half of the body where a tie or pocket square can add touches of color and personality. What is the universal unifier? I’ve found that when in doubt medium gray socks work with most everything.



Please note that in most cases, certainly those involving business or formal situations, your hose should be of the over-the-calf variety. Nothing is more unsightly than a flaccid sad sock and pale, hairy calf advertising itself when you sit down for an important meeting. Once, when watching the interview of a leading political figure, I saw the gentleman lean back in his chair to answer a question. He crossed his leg casually and began to speak. I have no idea what he said; I don’t even remember who it was. All I can remember is his floppy short sock and awkwardly exposed pasty white leg.



At the other end of the sock spectrum is what to wear with your casual or non-formal work wardrobe. Here, I am the social liberal. Wear what you like, but try and make sure that there is some connection to your overall wardrobe or at least to some element of your dress. Wearing an English tweedy/earthy outfit? Try a punchy argyle.



In the new issue of Fantastic Man, the subversively intellectual yet occasionally bawdy gentlemen’s style journal, Glen O’Brian – GQ’s Style Guy – crafted an entire essay on hosiery. It’s a fun but totally practical essay about the often forgotten indicators of a man’s true style.

Timeless Timepieces

Not too long ago I had a discussion with some guys about watches. The topic was whether cell phones will ever replace the watch and on this issue there tended to be two camps. The first one believes that using a cell phone for telling time and foregoing a watch altogether makes perfect sense and is just a natural evolution in timekeeping. Watches are, to them, old fashioned things that multifunction cell phones and PDAs far outperform.

The other camp believes that a watch, particularly a well-crafted mechanical watch possesses an intangible and emotional power that a cell phone, with all its bells and whistles, can never match. To these people, a watch is far more than a timekeeper; it is a combination of art, science, and horological functionality which together create something more significant than a mere tool.

I firmly fall into the latter group. The things you carry and use every day should have not only purpose, but meaning as well. Watches are an important and personal way for a man to express his style. Apart from cuff links, we really don’t have many options to throw a little flair into our daily routine.

As men have increased their focus on style, elegance, quality, and a need to differentiate themselves from others, watches have evolved as well. From the pedestrian Timex to extravagant Breguet, quartz to chronometer, watches have become the men’s accessory linchpin. Your watch says a great deal about what you value.

Mechanical Machines
Though there are many types of watches, one particular category has shown marked growth. In one of those interesting juxtapositions, mechanical and automatic watches - which demand almost daily manual involvement - have increased in popularity just as automated technology has taken over much of our lives.

With hundreds of moving parts and complex “complications,” you might think these anachronistic items would have fallen by the wayside, victims of progress. Not so; in fact the exact opposite has occurred. Whether they are objects of status or the focus of a collector’s fascination, watches are now the single most important accessory you have.



As with many aficionados, I prefer mechanical and automatic watches. They possess a character and personality not found in mass-produced commodity timepieces. "Mechanical" refers to the fact that the watch requires manual winding to work. Once the spring runs down, the watch stops unless it is re-wound.

"Automatic" watches have a counterweighted engine that, once wound, automatically rewinds itself through your body's natural movement. Just as one would cherish a hand-written letter over the anonymousness of an e-mail printout, I find a value no price can measure in my grandfather’s temperamental wrist watch.

Making a Choice
Newer watches are definitely trending larger in size; the Italian Panerai being an extreme example. Many classically styled sport watches now run about 41 millimeters across; fairly large but still quite manageable. The most common case shapes are round, square, and rectangular, though a variety of unique styles fall in between.



High end and even some mid-range watches are also adding complications (complex mechanical functions) like calendars that can account for leap years, exotic timing, and multiple chronographic features.

Of course, more complications mean a higher price. Last year, Vacheron Constantine succeeded in creating a $1 million watch that contained the most complications ever. You can still have high end features without breaking the bank, but many good quality, automatic watches will still run you more than $1,000. Name brands and precious metals will add to the cost and finding a lesser known manufacturer who uses quality components and materials without the glitz can help in the area of price.



Swiss watches are still the gold standard and the addition of the "Geneve" badge on your watch ensures that it was not only manufactured with Swiss parts, but assembled in Switzerland.

With so many makers, options, and price points, there are many watches from which to choose. Of course, if you really want to impress people, it’s not hard to spend the equivalent of a new Range Rover on a Franck Mueller, A. Longe Sohn, or Patek Philipe.



Take some time to look around and find a watch that you truly like and to which you are drawn. You should own at least one favorite watch that has real meaning to you and that you love to wear.

I also believe that you should have a watch wardrobe. Not every watch is suited for every occasion and, like clothing, you need to match your watch to the event or situation. This doesn't meant that you should spend your life savings on a bunch of expensive watches, but make sure to invest in one or two quality timepieces. You can easily find very good quality mid-range watches in most jewelry stores and online. Whatever you get, quality matters; and it's presence and absence are equally obvious.

Sporty technical models like Tag Hauer and Oris are great choices for casual wear. More elegant watches like Movado and Chronoswiss work well with a suit. Some globally admired brands like Rolex can travel from the swimming pool to the board room without missing a beat.

Learn about the brands to which you are attracted, their history, and what makes them special. Be honest with yourself about what you can actually afford, but whatever you choose, consider it an investment.

OTC Recommends: Smart Turnout

Every now and then I come across a company that is truly unique and catches my eye. It could be the products or marketing approach. Sometimes it’s their buzz factor or ability to hit the market with the right thing at the right time. In the case of Smart Turnout, it started with a watch band.

Page 195 of the 2007 Esquire Big Black Book showed a picture of a sharp looking Fortis chronograph on a red and blue ribbon watch strap. The strap was unlike any other I had seen. It was a standard looking preppy nylon strap but the band itself was constructed like a NATO watch strap with a decidedly military feel to it. The combination of watch and strap was perfectly ironic: gin and tonic meets Top Gun. According to the copy, the strap was manufactured by Smart Turnout, an English company. I was intrigued.


The Smart Turnout Watch

I tracked down that strap at J. Press and when paired with my Tutima chronograph gave me the same look. I wanted to learn more about Smart Turnout and did a little digging. At about the same time, Smart Turnout found me. It seems in doing a web search they ran across an OTC article in which I referenced their company.

In the ensuing exchanges, I wound up learning that Smart Turnout makes a lot more than just watch straps.

The idea for the company came when Philip Turner was nearing the end of his 10 year period in the Scots Guards. Philip was participating in a horse race at Sandown Park in 1992, and had a sweater knitted for the occasion in his regimental colors.

It drew many compliments back at the regiment and gave rise to the idea of developing more clothes in club colors and Smart Turnout was conceived. The company has grown into one which is dedicated to producing a variety of unique products, all fashioned in the colors of the British and U.S. military, schools, and British and American Universities.

Smart Turnout sells a wide range of goods, including ties, cufflinks, cummerbunds, belts and braces, scarves and socks. Starting this season, you can pick up smart webbing belts in the colors of the British Royal Marines and the Black Watch. They are even getting into the sleepwear business with dressing gowns and pajamas in regimental colors.

As a relatively small company, Smart Turnout is looking to expand its reach and broaden its market. In addition to a full service website, its American operation consists of haberdasheries like the aforementioned J. Press stocking a limited selection of items. Personally I want more; I’d like to walk into a Smart Turnout store in, say, Boston. I think that the brand could carry a nice little brick-and-mortar outlet in Bean Town.


Smart Turnout Yale Cuff Links

I am especially fond of my Smart Turnout Yale cufflinks; the kind with the chain. When I opened the small blue leather box, I was impressed with their quality and construction. The detail alone in the school’s seal is quite remarkable. In addition to acquiring a couple of additional watch straps, I also have an Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders regimental tie which is pretty sharp too.


Yale & Harvard Jumpers (Yep, from England)

If you are looking for that old school, old money look, this is the place to start. In many ways it’s a preppy version of the candy store. I don’t often write this extensively about specific brands, but Smart Turnout has really caught my attention because of both the depth and breadth of its offerings. It’s created a real niche for itself and I have not found anything quite like it.

Ralph Lauren: Collector & Cultural Curator

I am a little behind the curve on this one, but I jut saw the preview for a fascinating documentary on Ralph Lauren's vintage automobile collection: "The Ralph Lauren Car Collection: Speed, Style & Beauty." Considered to be one of the finest of it's kind in the world, this collection encompasses many marque' names - Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes, Bugatti - but the quality and stylistic breadth of the cars is staggering. Restored to a level that in some cases exceeds their original showroom quality, his cars track the development of the automobile not only as transportation, but as art and social elegance.



The documentary, aired by the Discovery Channel this past Saturday, is an hour-long exploration of the collection, how it came to be, the development of the stunning companion book, and how his cars have affected Ralph Lauren the designer. In full disclosure, my wife works for the Discovery Channel.

With his company celebrating its 40th anniversary, Lauren the visionary and collector is also highlighted in the current issues of Men's Vogue, Fortune, and Town and Country. Personally, I find his passion for style and the elegance of functional tools to be major factors in my appreciation for what Ralph Lauren has created. It's remarkable really that it has only been 40 years since Ralph forced his way into the fashion scene.

Ralph Lauren's impact on almost every aspect of the business of fashion, from the store-within-a-store concept to aspirational lifestyle marketing, has transformed how people across the world want to live. His British-landed-gentry cum New-England-Old-money vision of life has always focused on quality and detail. Whether it's handmade crocodile loafers or a Purple Label cashmere suit, there are no shortcuts. Even when turning an actual New York City mansion into his own gentrified universe, Lauren's vision is tactile. You want to live there.



Another legendary collection of Lauren's pulls at my soul: his assemblage of watches which range from vintage Rolexes to a one-of-a-kind collection within a collection of Panerai Italian military watches which are quite popular among high-end collectors at the moment. Watches in particular are intensely personal items that convey to others your true sense of individual style. A collection like Lauren's is in many ways a mirror of his personality and, as far I know, accurately reflects his obsession with quality, style, detail, and history.

Worth noting here is that this past March Ralph Lauren and the Richemont Group, owners of such luxury brands as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Mont Blanc, IWC, and Alfred Dunhill, inked a deal to create The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company. The 50/50 joint venture will design, manufacture, and distribute products through Polo boutiques and exclusive high-end jewelry stores. It seems that Mr. Lauren is ready to add his own creations to his personal museum.



By creating these fascinating collections, Lauren is becoming a curator of historic touchstones that define luxury and elegance. While some may see this an homage to conspicuous consumption or a celebration of indulgent decadence, I look at it very differently. Watches and cars, clothes and shoes, bags and furniture; these are the things that people use to define and identify themselves. Ralph Lauren is consciously preserving the history of practical elegance. All of these objects evoke a visceral response and people use them to create their own persona and personal history. He uses his own collections for personal and professional inspiration; think of them as a database of style.

Look around your own life; your home, your closet, your dresser, and your briefcase. What can you say is unique and important to you? For example, if you have a mug full of pens on you desk but only one of two vintage roller balls mean something to you, get rid of the others. Don't hold on to stuff just because you have it; be discriminating and really use what you keep.

While we all do not have his financial resources, take a page from Ralph's playbook and don't just accept what you can get, don't keep what happens to be around just because it's there. Rather, select the things in your life; constantly edit. Create your own personal collections; you will find more value, financial and personal, in fewer but cherished possessions.

Style Guide: Argyle Socks

A couple of months ago, as the weather was heating up, I posted a piece about Smart Turnout's new line of argyle socks.

Although I still think wearing lightly patterned argyle in the summer is a fun, albeit incongruous look, it's now Autumn and this is truly argyle season.

Argyle's classic design of overlapping diamonds has a certain heavy warmth which reminds me of bundling up on crisp mornings to walk the dog. Maybe it's the historic pattern's Scottish heritage or its perennial prevalence in sweaters and thick socks, but it just makes me think "warmth."

Wearing argyle can be a tricky thing and if you are not careful "clever-brainy-iconoclast" drifts into "goofy-overpattered-stereotype". Keep it simply by using this dramatic pattern in small or targeted doses.

Today, let's talk socks.

Want to spice up your otherwise traditional suit? Try out a pair of dark or muted argyle socks with a black, navy blue or dark grey base. That will tone down the overall pattern and give you a shot of fun pattern without making it look to kitschy. Pick a base color that you would normally wear with your outfit.

Classic and coordinated (credit, WASP 101)

A note - this works when you are suited up but not going overly formal. Barrel cuff? Have a little fun. Cufflinks? Keep it formal.

As a side note, I'm not really a fan of argyle ties. I find them too affected for my taste, but that is a personal thing. Some guys may be able to pull them off, but the look is often more comic than clever. This isn't the same thing as plaid; clearly I like plaid ties.

Argyle socks can actually be paired with most looks except formal business attire, black tie (obvious I know, but I've actually seen it tried) and shorts. Kilts yes, shorts, not really.

Follow the same rule as above and marry the base color to the pant. With casual clothing however, you needn't match the two; you can offset the two. With jeans, go brighter and let the shock of color and pattern show through. Khakis can either blend or contrast as long as either the pants or top pick up some of the argyle design.

Almost looks like something you would
see today in J. Crew (credit, Ivy Style)

Pairing with casual shoes is actually pretty easy, just something that most guys are not used to. loafers, moccasins, chukka boots and Timberlands are all natural mates to argyle socks. If you want to take a more urban casual turn, try them with classic trainers (sneakers). Do not try this with your Air Jordans or techno cross trainers. Classic Adidas, Stan Smiths, Chuck Taylors or something along those lines will work just fine.

So there you have it, a quick argyle primer for the Fall. I'll talk about argyle on your upper half shortly. If you have any questions or comments, or if you think I missed something, just let me know.


I'm pretty much over the preppy skull thing,
but the pairing is great

And please remember, especially with something as personally subjective as argyle, different people can pull off different things. Yes, Andre Benjamin can wear argyle head to toe and look totally cool. But do you really plan on wearing that look to the office?

The Allure of Sterling Silver Accessories

Gold may be having its heyday in the markets right now, but silver still holds an unmistakable sway over man. The English are renowned for their penchant of silver collecting and companies like Tiffany have built their reputations on it. Silver, sterling silver in particular – which is nice parts silver to one part copper – has a personality and warmth that is difficult to deny.

The scratches and nicks which over time come to define silver objects tell their own story; the patina softens and takes on a unique personality. This trait makes sterling silver an excellent material for special and cherished items. Where gold can seem ostentatious and showy, silver is approachable and more relaxed, perfect for the treasured accessories in your life.

Because I like to travel light whenever possible, a money clip or pen knife is about all I want in my pants pocket. Such personal objects should never be disposable; they are with us each day and become talismans that grow in value beyond currency. Rather than shove spare cash into your pocket or toss any old pen into your bag, why not consider investing in one or two elegant little treasures that have meaning?



For those loose bills, opt for a sterling money clip; add a monogram and make it an heirloom. Yard-O-Lead makes some wonderful sterling silver pens that will stand out from the conference table crowd – the Viceroy is a favorite model of mine.



Sterling cuff links are an obvious option. Silver knots or classic monogrammed ovals are always in style. Another wonderful use of sterling is the classic monogrammed engine turned belt buckle. Paired with an alligator strap, there is nothing quite as elegant. For smokers, or merely those wish to be prepared for a chivalrous flourish, a silver Dunhill lighter is indispensable.



Other individualistic options include the silver tie bar, once an obligatory sartorial tool and now enjoying a resurgence of sorts. And, as long as you don’t let it look like a building superintendent’s, a simple silver key chain makes a functional utensil a little more stylish.

A silver card case can be quite sharp and I’ve seen a few people use vintage cigarette cases to hold their business or calling cards. Match the case to your own personality and tastes – either very elaborate or simple in design.

Silver, I know, is not everyone’s cup of tea. To my mind, there are silver people and there are gold people. Usually, it’s fairly easy to figure out who is who; for example, I am a silver person. Apart from a general love of sterling, when it comes to personal accessories, I naturally lean toward silver and stainless steel.

Most of my watches are stainless steel and my wedding band is platinum. Through frameless, the small amount of metal on my glasses is silver colored. I just prefer silver more than gold – the one exception being my signet ring. Bearing my family’s crest, it is my one regular gold accessory.



It’s not like I’d turn down some gold cuff links or a vintage gold Seamaster, but as a general rule, I find it too showy and formal for my taste. I have inherited a number of lovely gold items – cuff links and notably a wonderful pocketknife that once belonged to my great grandfather. They are special to me because of their personal connection, but when I look to my current wish list, sterling silver is still where my heart’s at.

A Windsor of a Question

Dear Sir, I apologize for the unsolicited email, but I thought it you might have a free moment you might be able to help with something.

I am about 6 feet tall and prefer the windsor knot. I have noticed that the short end of my tie, once the knot is tied, is much shorter than the long end and cannot be placed in the little holder piece. So my the short end of my tie moves around a lot and is not held in place. It doesn't look very good. I know some people tuck this piece into their shirts but this just doesn't seen right to me. I also know that some people use a tie clip but with all due respect that just does not seem right for a 25 year-old. Do you have any other suggestions?

The gentleman above poses an interesting and not too-uncommon question. I have found that for most people, ties seems to be designed to only handle the four-in-hand when is comes to length. Anything else and they seem to run out of length in a flash - as is the case here.

I do know that some tie makers make longer ties, though they can be hard to find and there is no guarantee that one will even like the selection. Brooks Brothers, for example, has a special collection of extra long ties. When I am in a Windsor mood, I have only two ties that I know will work and still let me properly tuck the back blade into its holder.

When going for a Windsor, or even a half-Windsor, I prefer that my ties not be too bulky. Some men always want to see a chunky knot, but to me the full Windsor knot is itself already a bit hefty and I really don’t want to overdo the bulk factor. So, in my case at least all these preferences limit the actual tie options.


The loose Italian take on a Windsor

I'm also a little picky about the rear blade. With whatever knot I tie, I prefer that both the front and rear blade hang about even. It's a balance issue for me - the lack of relatively equal tie halves, front and back, feels awkward, like I have a big knot around my neck and a lone flap of silk hanging off-center. I don't like the feeling; it's like I'm faking it.

Ultimately though, you have to work with what you have and in this case it probably means jury-rigging your ties. I agree that the tie bar option is not a good fit. If nothing else, it would probably sit up too high and look a bit odd. And I agree that in most cases a tie bar worn out of necessity (or even choice) looks more fashiony than classy on a 25 year-old.

If you want to see what a good Windsor knot looks like, take a gander at this recent New York Times piece on the always dapper NYC Police Commissioner Raymond Kelly. The Comish has a particular dedication to the Windsor knot and is also a surprising font of information when it comes to dressing with personal flair.


Ray Kelly ties one on, under the watchful gaze of T.R.

The easiest option might be to use a small safety pin and tack the errant short piece to the back of your tie. Or, if you're game (or if your tailor is game) add a second keeper loop further up the tie positioned to always capture the rear blade.

To learn how to tie a Windsor knot, click here to view step-by-step instructions from Brook's Southern cousin, Ben Silver.

Style Guide: The Wallet

From billfolds to pocket secretaries, the wallet is one of the most personal items a man carries all day, every day. In addition to credit cards and cash, IDs and licenses, your wallet is often home to those personal scraps of memory and nostalgia unique to you. Unlike your bag, your shoes or even the clothes on your back, the wallet is so personal that for many men it never crosses their mind to get a new one unless prompted by sheer necessity.

That is certainly the case with me. My wallet, the one I have carried for the last seven years, is from R. Horns, in Vienna; a remarkable little leather shop. It is a classic international billfold model with two currency sections and eight credit card slots. It is a rich, nutty brown that has darkened with age and the leather, though quite thick, is still soft. The leather even smells different than anything from the States. Like many of the rare and unique things in life, this would be very hard to replace – I’d have to travel all the way back to Vienna. Darn.

You’d think I was in love with the thing, but that is the connection a guy can have with something so personal. For example, I have in my wallet, among various notes and receipts, a used ticket from the Paris metro. It’s been in there since our last trip to that wonderful city, our favorite really. And there it will stay so long as I don’t accidentally lose it - or, until I change wallets, which hopefully will not be for quite a while. Were I to make the switch though, there are some interesting options out there.

Wallet Styles
There are essentially three types of wallets: The Pocket Secretary (tall and thin, it is designed to fit into the inside pocket of a suit coat; The International Billfold (essentially a large square, this is a wide wallet with room for multiple cards and currency and designed for a back pocket; and The Slim Billfold (a smaller and more trim version of the International Billfold with space for a few cards and usually one currency section).



Depending on your needs any one of these gets the job done; in fact, actually choosing a wallet today is easier than even a few years ago. While women have always had the luxury of a handbag in which to carry their day-to-day accouterments, men long suffered though bulging pockets and overstuffed wallets. Today, however, men’s bags are rapidly gaining acceptance and there is less need to try and fit everything on earth into your back pocket. All the other stuff that weighed you down can be tossed in your bag.

Staying Trim
With the wallet now freed up, feel free to slim down a bit. Just carry your credit cards, driver’s license, identification card, insurance card, cash, etc. The point is to keep it neat and organized. Some guys carry their cash in a money clip, an elegant and swanky alternative. It also keeps cash separate from you credit cards which is a good idea, especially when traveling. For those dealing with Pounds Sterling and Euros, wallets with built in change pockets are a necessity, alternatively a small change purse will capture your coins.



Whatever type of wallet you choose, in whichever configuration best matches your needs, choose something you really like. A wallet, like all your personal effects should be an investment. Invest wisely.

Style Guide: Watches, Pens & Other Accessories

Details matter, it really is that simple. And some of the most important details are the personal accessories you carry around every day.

The things you take with you make a big statement about who you are and what you value. They tell the world all about you without ever saying a word. Choosing them wisely helps you tell the right story.

Time Check
One of my favorite ad campaigns is from luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe. The tag line is, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This more or less embodies my view of how people should choose the stuff in their lives, particularly all those personal accessories. Truly personal objects that have meaning beyond their mere function should never be disposable.

If you have decided to buy a nice watch, purchase the best you can comfortably afford. More than most personal items, a watch is a true investment that should last a lifetime. Make sure it is something you want to wear, a style that fits your personality, and unique enough to be interesting. Watches make wonderful heirlooms, so try and choose quality over flash. An automatic movement, multiple complications, and elegant face make for a more expensive but desired family treasure.



Handwritten
Your pen is another item far more personal than might be thought. Notice that I said “your pen,” as though there is one specific pen that should always be with you. There should be. While most disposable hotel pens may be serviceable, something like an Omas 360, with its triangular barrel, makes a stylish statement that moves beyond mere function. Pens have that kind of power; they can be expensive works of art yet remain functioning tools. Therefore a pen can be practical, portable elegance.

When choosing a high-end writing instrument, make sure to select something that meets your matter-of-fact, as well as emotional, needs. Do you even know how to write with a fountain pen? Do you want to? If you’re going to spend $500 on a single pen, such practicalities matter.

Make a point to actually use your pen; don’t let it become some inanimate prop. As the Crane stationary company once pointed out: people don’t cherish e-mails, they cherish letters. There is something special and intensely personal about putting pen to paper, keeping a handwritten journal, or jotting down important thoughts.

By thinking ahead, these personal items will become your signature, like a more discreet version of Tom Wolfe’s white suit. They make you memorable but also allow you to define yourself to others. Think of famed Washington Post executive editor Ben Bradlee, the man who led the charge to expose Richard Nixon’s shenanigans. Though a “newspaper man” by trade, he was, and still is, also a classy gent who understood personal elegance and wore custom Turnbull & Asser shirts, with or without a tie, virtually every day.



Off the Cuff
Speaking of which, cufflinks are another great way to show some character. With double cuffed shirts - French cuffs to Americans - becoming more popular, men are appreciating the opportunity to show off with cufflinks. To wit, I have a cautionary note: restraint in the area of cufflinks is a better play than exuberance. By all means have fun, express yourself, but don’t go overboard. The fine line between creative and tacky is too easily crossed. Sometimes, the best choice is a simple pair of silk knots.

When you are pickier about the personal items in your life they take on more meaning. Something else happens too. By thinning out all that extra junk taking up space in your life, you actually wind up with less. The items with which you are left are the ones that really matter, and that’s the important part.