Real Style is Always in the Details

In this column, I decided to forego the traditional “best gift” or “best men’s stores” schtick. Besides, you’ll be seeing that “best whatever” type of thing all over the place and while these lists can be entertaining, for the most part they just encourage you to buy more stuff you don’t need. Rather, we’re going to talk about the little icons of personal style, watches, pens, and cufflinks – those personal accessories that most truly reflect who we are.

When I think of details making a difference, I always remember a particular college professor I had. He was a young guy with tons of style in that moody, intellectual way. Every day, he came in wearing some great outfit and he had this perfect bag that looked like one of those beat-up dispatch cases you always see in the movies but can’t actually find anywhere. Inside he carried antique pens in a double pen case, these great European notebooks, journals and all sorts of other interesting stuff. That guy had style because he paid attention to the details. And, of course, the girls loved him. He knew that his carefully chosen accessories spoke volumes about who he was before he even opened his mouth.

Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe's classic ad campaign, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” is a favorite of mine for a couple of reasons. First, the message behind the ad is that certain things in your life, truly personal objects that have meaning beyond their mere function, should never be disposable. Second, because of their very nature, these types of personal tools and accessories are often expensive. For those of you familiar with Patek Philippe, you know that’s a major understatement.

These small, seemingly innocuous things are far more defining than we give them credit for. Literally speaking, they are valuable because they cost us something. In an emotional sense they are valuable because they’re cherished.

Now, I happen to like nice pens. When using a fountain pen, I feel like I am composing a letter, rather than just writing out some words. Pens from makers like Mont Blanc, Omas, Parker or Pelikan aren’t just writing tools, they are an expression of style and personality. Fountain pens in particular are favorites of collectors, executives and those who simply don’t want to forget the purest form of communication – ink on paper. Yes, using a fountain pen takes more effort than typing on a keyboard, but therein lies its charm. There are several excellent pen shops in the DC area, including Fahrney’s, which has served the nation's capital since 1929.

While to some a shirt is just a shirt, many American men are finally coming to appreciate the distinctive swagger of a French cuffed, spread collar creation from Thomas Pink or Charles Tyrwhitt. If you’re making the switch, you’ll need cuff links. For men, this is an opportunity to show some real personality. From simple silk knots to literal works of art in precious metals, you’ll always want to add more to your collection. A great pair of cufflinks can be found in almost all price ranges, from presidential seal inspired eagles at the White House Gift shop ($30) to beautiful gold and enamel handmade creations at Tiffany & Co. ($2,000). Looking for something imaginative? Take New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg’s route and go for recycled subway tokens.

The piece of jewelry most every man does wear is a watch. And right now, watches are big. Literally. If you look at almost any magazine or celebrity’s wrist, chunky, glitzy watches are de rigeur. Some, like Franck Muller’s fantastic timepieces, can cost the same as a pair of Mercedes. The aforementioned Patek Philippe watches are so sought after by collectors, they have their own secondary auction market. For the rest of us, there are plenty of excellent options. A good watch should be viewed as an investment, so save up and get something that will stand the test of style and time. A truly timeless Cartier Tank watch can run you around $6,000 but will still be classy well into the next generation. On the other hand, Raymond Weil’s Parsifal watch is a substantial and elegant alternative and at $1,100, will cost you a bit less.

Let me pause here for a moment to comment on something that seems to confuse some guys. As a general rule, sports watches don’t belong with suits. Yes, politicians on the campaign trail often sport a Timex Ironman to remind us that they’re just regular folks too. But unless you’re kissing babies for votes, or actually running a triathlon, leave it in the drawer for the weekend. Remember, just like anything else your watch should fit what you’re wearing.
When you are pickier about the personal items in your life, they take on more meaning. Something else happens too. You wind up with less stuff floating around, but the stuff you do have means something more to you. That’s the important part.

The Interview: Michael Kobold (Part II)

The continuation of Off The Cuff's exclusive interview with luxury watch maker Mike Kobold, founder of Kobold Watch Co. To read Part I of the interview, please click HERE.


Off The Cuff: So, who is your customer? Who is a Kobold guy?

Mike Kobold: He is someone who has an affinity for finely made products – shoes, cigars, cars, etc. Of course, he is also someone who has an affinity for watches regardless of his career. I say that because many of our watches are tool watches, they are meant to be used in challenging and difficult situations. But they are also beautiful and elegant pieces of horological art. (The new Soarway GMT is pictured above)

Though I am not going to go into too much detail about specific demographics, one group we do market to encompasses military/police/protective services.

Since our watches are not inexpensive – and I can touch on that in a minute – we do want to attract people who can afford them. Active service military or police tend to be younger guys with disposable income and, equally important, they want a distinctive best-of-class product that’s going to perform. At the other end of the spectrum are retired military; their kids are out of the house and they now have the chance to indulge in their own interests.


Mike Kobold, Founder

What I don’t want is someone who really can’t afford to purchase a Kobold at this time and who may then regret their decision because of other more important things they should be addressing. That’s a bad call for the customer and for Kobold because we now have someone with buyer’s remorse and potentially a watch that has moved to the secondary market.

OTC: What about the used watch, or “secondary” market? What is your feeling about that?

MK: You know, generally speaking I don’t think about it too much because that’s not where our focus is – we don’t create watches for the secondary market, we want someone to buy a Kobold watch because they want to keep it and use it. However, the secondary market does provide a point of entry for some people who cannot afford our watches at full price and that’s important too. I hope that should someone buy one of our watches through that channel, their next Kobold will come from us.

Watches are so personal and for many collectors, knowing that they picked out a specific watch and were involved in the acquisition from start to finish makes a huge difference to them. But however it happens, we want all Kobold owners to have the same feeling of being part of a special community. That’s key to any successful brand.

OTC: In some of the watch forums and chat rooms, I have seen negative comments about pricing – basically that you charge too much for your watches. Is that a fair complaint?

MK: Our watches are not inexpensive and I’m certainly not apologizing for that. But I think people need to remember that watch making is an expensive business and we are still a very small company. I’m a very frugal guy – I still live in the same one-bedroom apartment I’ve had since college, I drive a pre-owned car and am constantly reinvesting back into the business. The sub $1,000 watch market is like 90% of the overall market which means that all the high-end tool and luxury watches out there are all fighting for the same 10% market share.


The Phantom - a military favorite


The Spirit of America

That means constant development and constant marketing and those two things cost a lot of money. Remember too that the lag time for a new watch, from conception to retail can run anywhere from 6 months to two years. Production costs and overhead increases affect every business and we are no different – so yes, that gets reflected in the retail cost of our watches. Every year we offer a new model at a reduced price to say thank you to our current and new customers – it does cost us real money in the form of lost revenue, but honestly that’s immaterial because the point is to continue and build the Kobold community.

OTC: What about the production limit of 2,500 units per watch model – where did that come from?

MK: It came from the business plan I drafted for my MBA project; that’s actually when Kobold Watch was founded. I chose to cap watch production at 2,500 units per model because at that time it was a figure I never thought I would reach – an arbitrary number. Now it defines the unique nature of every Kobold watch and I have no plans to change it.

OTC: When I think of your brand, I see some guy parachuting into the wilderness to study extinct botany or something equally exotic. So what’s next for Kobold Watch - how do you plan to build on the brand?

MK: Well, you can tell your readers that right now I’m looking at the designs for a new chronograph – 40mm. They can expect to see it in a year or so. It’s a great looking watch. That’s one of the things I love about watches – the emotional value they have for so many people. Certainly building on the brand’s message - “Embrace Adventure” – is something I want to continue. Whatever that adventure is, Kobold can be part of it; whether you are exploring Antarctica, excavating Mayan ruins or just living your life, our watches are up to the task.


A Polar Surveyor in action

We’ll be rolling out new models on a pretty regular basis, still a 2,500 unit maximum and it’s amazing how that is no longer such a large number. I’m also working on a book – that’s still in the development phase and it’s something I am very excited about.

There are many medium and short term projects that will help expand the brand but also keep it involved in the lives of the serious adventurers who rely on and support Kobold Watch. One project I am very dedicated to and will likely take a very long time to accomplish is the development of a 100% American automatic military watch. Our soldiers, sailors and airmen all wear watches that are made in other countries – good watches to be sure – but not American.

I want this country to be a leader again in fine horology and that will take a long time to accomplish because it involves rebuilding an entire industry that have been absent from the American landscape for more than 40 years. Still, that’s my big long term goal.

OTC: Mike, thanks very much for taking the time to speak with me and for giving Off The Cuff’s readers across the world a better understanding of your great brand – and your great watches.

The Interview: Michael Kobold (Part I)

Close your eyes. What comes to mind when I say, “handmade mechanical timepiece,” “exacting quality,” and “coveted by collectors, celebrities, explorers and heads of state?” Did your thoughts immediately drift to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania? Maybe they should.

While Switzerland is home to the likes of Rolex and Germany to Glashutte, the Steel City is in fact the world headquarters of Kobold Watch Company and the remarkable Michael Kobold.

At all of 30 years old, Kobold has done something most in the luxury industry – heck, any industry – would have thought impossible. Within the insular world of high-end timepieces Michael Kobold has created a boutique watch company from scratch and it’s thriving. His line of watches, anchored by the stunning, and stunningly functional Polar Surveyor, is primarily geared to adventurous types – armchair and genuine alike.


Mike Kobold

Celebrating its 12th anniversary this year, Kobold Watch Company is barely out of diapers when compared to brands like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre or Breguet. But his creations are already being compared to Rolex and Omega – two brands traditionally associated with jet setting, globetrotting and adventure. Often it’s Kobold doing the comparison, but that’s part of his brand’s success: he isn’t afraid to put his products to the test and tell you why they are just as good – if not better – than those other gold plated names.

When I first came across Kobold and his quirky little watch company a few years ago, it intrigued me. Nothing serious mind you, but I heard that the guy wore one of his watches on each wrist and that’s got to count for something. The more I learned, the more the man and brand impressed me.

I’m not alone. His loyal brand ambassadors include former President Bill Clinton, A-list actors like The Sopranos’ James Gandalfini and CSI: New York’s Gary Sinise, legendary adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes and global architect Daniel Libeskind.


Ran Fiennes: Brand Ambassador-in-Chief

I recently took receipt of my first Kobold, the Arctic Diver “Swiss.” This is a new model being offered in three versions, the “Swiss” which houses an ETA 2824-A2 movement, and two other variations which primarily sport U.S. components and are run by an in-house manufacture K.2651 movement based on new-old-stock German made movements.


My new Kobold Arctic Diver


The flagship Polar Surveyor

It’s a great watch. And though at 46mm it’s quite big, the Arctic Diver sits very comfortably on my wrist. What really impressed me however, was the emotional connection I developed with this watch almost immediately. It’s unique yet classically inspired design is easy to read which is good because it’s also very much built for someone who plans on wearing it to the ends of the earth. This watch has a purposefulness to it that makes me want to be like Indiana Jones, or Phillipe Cousteau (who, by the way designed his own Kobold watch).


Philippe Cousteau & The Large Soarway Diver

So, after watching this upstart company grow from the offshoot of an MBA project into a legitimate and respected player in the high-end horological business, I was ready to sit down with Mike and find out what makes Kobold tick.

Off The Cuff: Mike, tell me how things are going in the watch business? It’s been a rough year and most high-end brands are down about 30% – does that sound right?

Mike Kobold: Yes, pretty much every brand has seen at least a 30% overall drop from last year. Everyone’s been hit hard, but we have been able to make some adjustments and trim costs without compromising our standards. Still, the market is overheated and some of the larger houses have not been able to react as nimbly as us.

OTC: What has been your approach?

MK: We have cut costs without cutting our customer service. That has meant fewer trips and fewer shows. Fewer dinners and less entertaining; and my staff have worked to identify areas where we can tighten the belt and squeeze out more efficiency. We are still a small operation and have the ability to react a little more quickly than others. We saw what was coming down the road and started to make changes early.

OTC: What about your Internet-based model? How has that helped, or hurt, your overall business?

MK: It has definitely helped in that we are able to focus on watchmaking and keep the business geared toward customer service. It’s also easier for us to keep in direct contact with our customers and potential customers know that if they call us, they are going to be speaking with a real person – could be me. That said, as we have grown it’s just not that easy for me to be in direct contact with all of the customers and that’s been a frustration, albeit a nice one to have. It’s definitely been an organic kind of growth.

One of the main challenges of being an internet-based company is exposure. Since we only have a very small retail presence, Kobold has to do a lot of advertising. And as the founder and face of Kobold, I need to be out networking and making appearances. If you looked at my expense reports, you probably would question my cost cutting claim, but a big part of my job is to be seen, to meet people and to generate interest in and awareness of the brand. Still, it’s getting harder for me to maintain a personal level of customer interaction as we continue to grow.

As a company, having a strong focus on customer contact and service also means that we are better able to anticipate and react to customer needs. For example, the Arctic Diver roll-out was delayed a couple of times (ed: originally scheduled for customer delivery in April 2009, customers who pre-ordered their watches finally started to receive them in August). That really frustrated and embarrassed me, but it was a supplier issue and there wasn’t much I could do at that end.

OTC: So, how did you handle it?

MK: What we did for our customers who had pre-ordered an Arctic Diver was give them a free calfskin strap and make every effort to keep them up to date. We actually called every person and told them what was going on and let them know that they were getting a free strap as a thank you for their patience. It cost us a fair amount of money, but it was the right way to handle an unfortunate situation.

To be continued in Part II...

Ask Men.com Style Icons: A Great Resource

The folks over at AskMen.com recently sent me a link to their profile of industrial giant, and father of Fiat, Gianni Agnelli. This founder of the wear-your-watch-on-your-sleeve club was a consummate clothes horse. Of course his clothes were lovely hand made heirlooms so well crafted that his equally eccentric grandson Lapo Elkann still wears them.

The profile is pithy but well done and highlights Agnelli's flair for the functionally dramatic. What really caught my attention though, was the collection of additional profiles listed at the bottom of the page. JFK, Barack Obama, Kanye West and the last three decades of James Bond, to name but a few. Each one is a succinct shot of what specifically makes them an icon of style and how specifically you can create your own interpretation of their style. Normally I give these sorts of things short shrift because they are so often thin cliches. Not so these brief nuggets of history and fashion.

I think they are a great resource for classic and classy looks that stand the test of time. They also throw out small but fascinating nuggets of information, like the make of sweater worn by Jack Kennedy during his iconic walk through the suft of a Massachusetts beach. It was a J. Press pima cotton v-neck and you can still buy it today. Or that the watch worn by President Elect Obama is in fact a chronograph given to him by his Secret Service detail. It's actually from the Secret Service store and has the agency's shield logo emblazoned on it's face.


Secret Service watch given to President Elect Obama

Now, that's the sort of stuff that I find interesting. Taking the time to put objects in their context and not just saying "this is cool, wear it"; helps the reader to understand where things come from and how they can make them their own.

Timeless Timepieces

Not too long ago I had a discussion with some guys about watches. The topic was whether cell phones will ever replace the watch and on this issue there tended to be two camps. The first one believes that using a cell phone for telling time and foregoing a watch altogether makes perfect sense and is just a natural evolution in timekeeping. Watches are, to them, old fashioned things that multifunction cell phones and PDAs far outperform.

The other camp believes that a watch, particularly a well-crafted mechanical watch possesses an intangible and emotional power that a cell phone, with all its bells and whistles, can never match. To these people, a watch is far more than a timekeeper; it is a combination of art, science, and horological functionality which together create something more significant than a mere tool.

I firmly fall into the latter group. The things you carry and use every day should have not only purpose, but meaning as well. Watches are an important and personal way for a man to express his style. Apart from cuff links, we really don’t have many options to throw a little flair into our daily routine.

As men have increased their focus on style, elegance, quality, and a need to differentiate themselves from others, watches have evolved as well. From the pedestrian Timex to extravagant Breguet, quartz to chronometer, watches have become the men’s accessory linchpin. Your watch says a great deal about what you value.

Mechanical Machines
Though there are many types of watches, one particular category has shown marked growth. In one of those interesting juxtapositions, mechanical and automatic watches - which demand almost daily manual involvement - have increased in popularity just as automated technology has taken over much of our lives.

With hundreds of moving parts and complex “complications,” you might think these anachronistic items would have fallen by the wayside, victims of progress. Not so; in fact the exact opposite has occurred. Whether they are objects of status or the focus of a collector’s fascination, watches are now the single most important accessory you have.



As with many aficionados, I prefer mechanical and automatic watches. They possess a character and personality not found in mass-produced commodity timepieces. "Mechanical" refers to the fact that the watch requires manual winding to work. Once the spring runs down, the watch stops unless it is re-wound.

"Automatic" watches have a counterweighted engine that, once wound, automatically rewinds itself through your body's natural movement. Just as one would cherish a hand-written letter over the anonymousness of an e-mail printout, I find a value no price can measure in my grandfather’s temperamental wrist watch.

Making a Choice
Newer watches are definitely trending larger in size; the Italian Panerai being an extreme example. Many classically styled sport watches now run about 41 millimeters across; fairly large but still quite manageable. The most common case shapes are round, square, and rectangular, though a variety of unique styles fall in between.



High end and even some mid-range watches are also adding complications (complex mechanical functions) like calendars that can account for leap years, exotic timing, and multiple chronographic features.

Of course, more complications mean a higher price. Last year, Vacheron Constantine succeeded in creating a $1 million watch that contained the most complications ever. You can still have high end features without breaking the bank, but many good quality, automatic watches will still run you more than $1,000. Name brands and precious metals will add to the cost and finding a lesser known manufacturer who uses quality components and materials without the glitz can help in the area of price.



Swiss watches are still the gold standard and the addition of the "Geneve" badge on your watch ensures that it was not only manufactured with Swiss parts, but assembled in Switzerland.

With so many makers, options, and price points, there are many watches from which to choose. Of course, if you really want to impress people, it’s not hard to spend the equivalent of a new Range Rover on a Franck Mueller, A. Longe Sohn, or Patek Philipe.



Take some time to look around and find a watch that you truly like and to which you are drawn. You should own at least one favorite watch that has real meaning to you and that you love to wear.

I also believe that you should have a watch wardrobe. Not every watch is suited for every occasion and, like clothing, you need to match your watch to the event or situation. This doesn't meant that you should spend your life savings on a bunch of expensive watches, but make sure to invest in one or two quality timepieces. You can easily find very good quality mid-range watches in most jewelry stores and online. Whatever you get, quality matters; and it's presence and absence are equally obvious.

Sporty technical models like Tag Hauer and Oris are great choices for casual wear. More elegant watches like Movado and Chronoswiss work well with a suit. Some globally admired brands like Rolex can travel from the swimming pool to the board room without missing a beat.

Learn about the brands to which you are attracted, their history, and what makes them special. Be honest with yourself about what you can actually afford, but whatever you choose, consider it an investment.

OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum

About two months ago OTC was contacted by Suunto, a watch company based in Helsinki, Finland. Suunto is best known as a designer of midrange digital sports watches that border on being wrist computers.

Founded in 1936, Suunto has a long and respected history as an innovator in sports timing, especially in the field of digital timing.

It turns out that Suunto is going upscale and wanted to see what OTC thought of the effort.

The new Suunto Elementum collection – exclusively manufactured in Finland – consist of three unique watches geared to specific activities. Now, as you may already guess, OTC does not really fit the digital watch model. Typically, when we discuss watches we’re talking about things like the benefits of tourbillions or how the very inaccuracy of mechanical watches make them so special.

That is still very much the case here, but the Elementum caught us off guard. These stylish, urban-inspired watches combine a high degree of craftsmanship with precision digital technology in a unique and attractive package. The goal in creating this collection was to marry form and function in an upscale and highly designed product. As far as we’re concerned, it worked.

The collection consists of three watches, Elementum Aqua, Elementum Terra and Elementum Ventus, specifically designed for diving, mountaineering and sailing. Their Latin names directly translate to water, earth and wind, which are the three elements that surround the activities Suunto Elementum is inspired by and designed to help navigate through.

Noticing an increased interest and demand for stylish but functional premium sports watches, Suunto developed the Elementum Collection to meet the needs of three specific types of people.


Elementum Aqua (on stainless steel bracelet)

The Aqua detects when the user enters the water and starts all the functions and measurements for a dive, such as depth, maximum depth, dive time, surface time and water temperature.


Elementum Terra (on leather strap)

The Terra is equipped to help its wearer survive in the outdoors, such as an altimeter for altitude measurement, barometer for easy prediction of weather changes and compass for navigation.

The Ventus is a highly sophisticated yet interestingly elegant sailing timepiece with features that allow for predictions of upcoming weather, an advanced compass for navigation and a sailing timer for the timing race starts.

After reviewing the three models – each available with a variety of finishes and straps – we chose Ventus as the test model. Its association with sailing and the hefty leather strap made it a good match with OTC’s sense of style.


Elementum Ventu (on leather strap)

Once the watch arrived, it was clear to us that Suunto was moving in a very premium direction. The outer box’s gallery drop front and inner box’s solid feel and clean finish all foretold that something different was going on.

The first thing we noticed about the watch was that while it is a solid 45mm across and sat quite high on the wrist, it weighed almost nothing. The face is a completely seamless crystal (negative display) and all functions are controlled by the pushers at three and four o-clock and the knob at two o-clock.

The Ventus is a sharp looking watch. Most people who commented on it said that it’s an interesting (in a good way) combination of new and old, modern and functional.

What we really like though, is the leather strap. The thick tan hide nicely counterpoints the case’s brushed stainless steel case and signed buckle. First time on the wrist and it felt moulded in place and the white top stitching really compliments the overall feel.

Technically speaking the functions are simple and strait forward – once you figure out which feature is controlled by which pusher. The barometric pressure graph is very useful (and cool) and the backlighting is, as my nephew would say, “wicked bright.”

Brand wise, Suunto has handled everything in-house, which is very admirable. The watches and the campaign’s approach both reflect this more personal philosophy. Each watch in the collection has its own brand ambassador. Ventus’ is Finnish sailing champion and Olympian Thomas Johanson. Check out his Suunto video HERE.

OTC happily recommends the Suunto Ventus as a cool yet classic tool watch with a modern flair. It’s functional, stylish, has a killer strap and the impressive pedigree of North Sea testing. Please note that it’s not a suit watch; it’s a dressy casual watch that can hit the seas (or just the mall) without skipping a beat.

Suunto Elementum is available in the USA, Sweden and Italy. It will be available this fall in Finland, Argentina, Greece, Japan and Singapore. MSRP is approximately $1,000.

Ralph Lauren: Collector & Cultural Curator

I am a little behind the curve on this one, but I jut saw the preview for a fascinating documentary on Ralph Lauren's vintage automobile collection: "The Ralph Lauren Car Collection: Speed, Style & Beauty." Considered to be one of the finest of it's kind in the world, this collection encompasses many marque' names - Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes, Bugatti - but the quality and stylistic breadth of the cars is staggering. Restored to a level that in some cases exceeds their original showroom quality, his cars track the development of the automobile not only as transportation, but as art and social elegance.



The documentary, aired by the Discovery Channel this past Saturday, is an hour-long exploration of the collection, how it came to be, the development of the stunning companion book, and how his cars have affected Ralph Lauren the designer. In full disclosure, my wife works for the Discovery Channel.

With his company celebrating its 40th anniversary, Lauren the visionary and collector is also highlighted in the current issues of Men's Vogue, Fortune, and Town and Country. Personally, I find his passion for style and the elegance of functional tools to be major factors in my appreciation for what Ralph Lauren has created. It's remarkable really that it has only been 40 years since Ralph forced his way into the fashion scene.

Ralph Lauren's impact on almost every aspect of the business of fashion, from the store-within-a-store concept to aspirational lifestyle marketing, has transformed how people across the world want to live. His British-landed-gentry cum New-England-Old-money vision of life has always focused on quality and detail. Whether it's handmade crocodile loafers or a Purple Label cashmere suit, there are no shortcuts. Even when turning an actual New York City mansion into his own gentrified universe, Lauren's vision is tactile. You want to live there.



Another legendary collection of Lauren's pulls at my soul: his assemblage of watches which range from vintage Rolexes to a one-of-a-kind collection within a collection of Panerai Italian military watches which are quite popular among high-end collectors at the moment. Watches in particular are intensely personal items that convey to others your true sense of individual style. A collection like Lauren's is in many ways a mirror of his personality and, as far I know, accurately reflects his obsession with quality, style, detail, and history.

Worth noting here is that this past March Ralph Lauren and the Richemont Group, owners of such luxury brands as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Mont Blanc, IWC, and Alfred Dunhill, inked a deal to create The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company. The 50/50 joint venture will design, manufacture, and distribute products through Polo boutiques and exclusive high-end jewelry stores. It seems that Mr. Lauren is ready to add his own creations to his personal museum.



By creating these fascinating collections, Lauren is becoming a curator of historic touchstones that define luxury and elegance. While some may see this an homage to conspicuous consumption or a celebration of indulgent decadence, I look at it very differently. Watches and cars, clothes and shoes, bags and furniture; these are the things that people use to define and identify themselves. Ralph Lauren is consciously preserving the history of practical elegance. All of these objects evoke a visceral response and people use them to create their own persona and personal history. He uses his own collections for personal and professional inspiration; think of them as a database of style.

Look around your own life; your home, your closet, your dresser, and your briefcase. What can you say is unique and important to you? For example, if you have a mug full of pens on you desk but only one of two vintage roller balls mean something to you, get rid of the others. Don't hold on to stuff just because you have it; be discriminating and really use what you keep.

While we all do not have his financial resources, take a page from Ralph's playbook and don't just accept what you can get, don't keep what happens to be around just because it's there. Rather, select the things in your life; constantly edit. Create your own personal collections; you will find more value, financial and personal, in fewer but cherished possessions.

Style Guide: Watches, Pens & Other Accessories

Details matter, it really is that simple. And some of the most important details are the personal accessories you carry around every day.

The things you take with you make a big statement about who you are and what you value. They tell the world all about you without ever saying a word. Choosing them wisely helps you tell the right story.

Time Check
One of my favorite ad campaigns is from luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe. The tag line is, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” This more or less embodies my view of how people should choose the stuff in their lives, particularly all those personal accessories. Truly personal objects that have meaning beyond their mere function should never be disposable.

If you have decided to buy a nice watch, purchase the best you can comfortably afford. More than most personal items, a watch is a true investment that should last a lifetime. Make sure it is something you want to wear, a style that fits your personality, and unique enough to be interesting. Watches make wonderful heirlooms, so try and choose quality over flash. An automatic movement, multiple complications, and elegant face make for a more expensive but desired family treasure.



Handwritten
Your pen is another item far more personal than might be thought. Notice that I said “your pen,” as though there is one specific pen that should always be with you. There should be. While most disposable hotel pens may be serviceable, something like an Omas 360, with its triangular barrel, makes a stylish statement that moves beyond mere function. Pens have that kind of power; they can be expensive works of art yet remain functioning tools. Therefore a pen can be practical, portable elegance.

When choosing a high-end writing instrument, make sure to select something that meets your matter-of-fact, as well as emotional, needs. Do you even know how to write with a fountain pen? Do you want to? If you’re going to spend $500 on a single pen, such practicalities matter.

Make a point to actually use your pen; don’t let it become some inanimate prop. As the Crane stationary company once pointed out: people don’t cherish e-mails, they cherish letters. There is something special and intensely personal about putting pen to paper, keeping a handwritten journal, or jotting down important thoughts.

By thinking ahead, these personal items will become your signature, like a more discreet version of Tom Wolfe’s white suit. They make you memorable but also allow you to define yourself to others. Think of famed Washington Post executive editor Ben Bradlee, the man who led the charge to expose Richard Nixon’s shenanigans. Though a “newspaper man” by trade, he was, and still is, also a classy gent who understood personal elegance and wore custom Turnbull & Asser shirts, with or without a tie, virtually every day.



Off the Cuff
Speaking of which, cufflinks are another great way to show some character. With double cuffed shirts - French cuffs to Americans - becoming more popular, men are appreciating the opportunity to show off with cufflinks. To wit, I have a cautionary note: restraint in the area of cufflinks is a better play than exuberance. By all means have fun, express yourself, but don’t go overboard. The fine line between creative and tacky is too easily crossed. Sometimes, the best choice is a simple pair of silk knots.

When you are pickier about the personal items in your life they take on more meaning. Something else happens too. By thinning out all that extra junk taking up space in your life, you actually wind up with less. The items with which you are left are the ones that really matter, and that’s the important part.

The High Church of Horology

On a recent business trip to Las Vegas, I was able to carve out a little spare time to explore Sin City's other vice: shopping.

While gambling - or gaming in the industry's parlance - is the mother's milk of Las Vegas, the city's retail offerings rival most of the world's A-list cities. Think of a brand and it more than likely has a storefront in Vegas. And not only that, the city's retail footprints are often large and glitzy. Like everything else in Las Vegas, the whole point of having a presence there is to be noticed and hopefully bought.

I'm not a shopper in the sense that I shop to find emotional satisfaction, rather I am endlessly fascinated by the variety of goods out there in the world. I'm like a sociological shopper; learning about craftsmen and companies, brands and trends, quality and design by exploring the final products that hit the market. A place like Las Vegas is remarkable because it draws the finest brands from around the world to one place.

In this city you will see cheek by jowl companies that you did not even know had a store and familiar mass market luxury names. Some firms use their Vegas presence to create a new version of themselves, capitalizing on the town's penchant for bigger and glitzier. I found the ultimate expression of this philosophy in the Forum Shops at Caesars.

The Tourneau Time Dome is the venerable New York company's Las Vegas Outlet. It's Tourneau's largest store; 35 custom-built brand shops-within-a-shop are spread across two-stories. From Swiss Army to Rolex to Breguet, more than 8,000 timepieces from 100 watchmakers are on display. Unsurprisingly, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, the 17,500-square-foot space is the world's largest watch store.


Panerai & IWC Schaffhausen

For watch lovers, it's a breathtaking experience. In the end though, it's a store in Vegas which has its pluses and minuses. I initially found the sales staff to be rather dismissive - particularly the Rolex guys. However, as I worked my way into the store and investigated less pedestrian brands - Panerai, Duby & Schaldenbrand, Blancpain, IWC - I met Kate Um, one of the senior sales consultants. She was a pleasure to chat with and was nonplussed that I might not buy something that very minute, instead walking me through the boutiques and discussing the merits of some less obvious brands.


Breguet

If you happen to be in Vegas for a day or so, take a little time to visit the Time Dome. If you are in the market for a new watch you'll certainly see more options than you thought existed. If you just want to look around and see what's out there, you will not be disappointed.

Review: The Luminox Colormark - Functionally Classic

I have reviewed and written on several high end wrist watch brands over the years; usually in the context of how they fit into a classic but updated sense of style. Watches are a very important component of one’s wardrobe – they are one of our most personal and telling accoutrements.

Though most of the attention gets focused on luxury and “investment” brands, there are more than enough guys out there who simply need a good, hardworking and distinctive watch. A number of readers have contacted me recently and asked that I track down a durable everyday watch that would fit into a less formal atmosphere.

I promptly started looked around for a functionally stylish watch that telegraphs personality but doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I decided to focus on the broad category sports watches. These are the kinds of timepieces that you can take from the pool to the barbeque to the office (on a casual summer’s day at least).

So, in a world filled with chunky Casio G-Shocks and Timex Ironmen, what stands out as unique and durable?

In a word: Luminox.

Apart from building a relatively inexpensive yet tough watch, Luminox still provides its customers with something special: legitimate uniqueness. Its breakout model, the original Navy SEAL composite watch, gave the brand a certain cache in the sports watch world. Designed in close collaboration with active Navy SEALs, its functional yet cool design and landmark illumination technology captured the imagination of many armchair “operators”.



The latest evolution of this watch is the EVO Colormark 3051, and I’ve been testing it out for a few weeks now. While there may be some grumbling out there that none of these watches are particularly classic or preppy, I beg to differ a little bit.

One of the hallmark traits of American prep is its adoption of functionality as style. Timelessly practical tools and equipment that transcend their original purpose are cherished and repurposed. And while I readily agree that the overwrought cases and digital nature of the Casio and Timex watches are dissuasive, by comparison Luminox’s purpose built analog face is classic and functional in an attractively military way. I think it’s a perfect, albeit modern, fit.



By no means am I suggesting that you ditch your vintage Omega Seamaster Deville on a striped grosgrain strap. But, if you are engaged in a day of racing 420s on Long Island Sound or working in the yard, you just might want to opt for function over form.

Though I’ve been a fan of Luminox’s distinctive style and illumination technology, this would be a true out-of-the-box test. I’ve never owned one of their watches, let alone worn one.

Special thanks to Lumondi, Luminox’s distributor in the United States, and Princeton Watch for assistance with the review unit.

The first thing that caught my attention about the Colormark was its weight, or lack thereof. For its large 44mm size, the watch is light as a feather. It’s also very comfortable on the wrist, so much so that I often forgot it have it on. In fact, I have the watch on right now and barely notice it.



The soft neoprene strap is 20mm snout to tail, which nicely balances the visual bulk of the watch itself. The stainless buckle is double pronged which adds literal stability to the closure and aesthetic stability to the strap. The discreet date window sits at the three o’clock position and 24-hour markers ring the interior of the dial. A large and easy to grasp 60-minute timing bezel tops the case.

Turn off the lights and instantly the hands and hour markers are crisply visible as is the timing bezel’s mark. Without getting all technical, there are watch-specific sites for that sort of thing, Luminox’s proprietary lighting technology basically means the lums are always on full power. Pretty amazing stuff, and quite handy at night.



Without question this is a casual watch that does not mix well with any manner of formal clothing, nor is it meant to. The design and scale are clearly purpose-built and as noted above are so obviously functional as to be quite attractive.

Overall, this is a great option that meets your need for an everyday knock-around sports watch. It’s tough and durable, reasonably neutral in a “Navy SEALs wear these too” kind of way.

It’s also a pretty distinctive watch; I haven’t really noticed anyone else wearing one.

Vintage Wrist Watches

I noticed on Polo's Rugby blog that there was a post about the vintage watches being offered at the company's East Hampton store. Though not the focus of the original post - a shot of some vintage sunglasses in a display case - questions rolled in about the great watches displayed on ribbon bands alongside the sunglasses.

That's a great example of the emotional power of watches, vintage mechanical ones in particular. I have a few vintage watches, some are family heirlooms and some were purchased. Each one is special and satisfies a particular aspect of my personality. Even the modern watches that I own are almost all mechanical - manual wind or automatic - and tend to be unique rather than flashy.

While traditional leather straps ans steel bracelets are just fine, certainly when they are original to the timepiece, a classic preppy ribbon strap can add flair and Ivy League panache to your wrist. British brand Smart Turnout makes a great version that's based on the rugged NATO strap design. They come in a range of colors representing English military units and several American Ivy League colleges.


Smart Turnout Watch Bands

When it comes to vintage watches, you can head off to East Hampton, N.Y., and visit the Rugby store or you can track down dealers closer to home. Believe it or not, you can also hit the web in search of sites with good deals and equally important, a good inventory. The great thing about vintage watches is that when you finally find what you're looking for it is a very personal score.

Here are several websites that I like keep an eye on to see whats coming onto the market. I cannot offer you any guarantees or standards, but the companies below already have excellent reputations.

Cool Vintage Watches
Tic-Tock.com
Yorktime
Second Time Around

If you want to see some exceptional early vintage watches, from say, around 1914, check out Old Wrist Watches.

So take a look around and give it a try; vintage mechanical watches and preppy ribbon straps are great ways to bring some stylish elan to your summer wardrobe.

Environmental Horology

I am a watch guy; not dedicated to one particular style or maker, my tastes run the gamut. Vintage, brand new, elegant complications or chunky dive watches; I like them all.

I have become a bit of an evangelist about one thing though – I think people should wear mechanical watches or watches that don’t need traditional batteries, if any.

With all the talk about going green, we should each take along hard look at ourselves; at our wrists, specifically. Are you still wearing one of those battery powered timekeepers? Well, shame on you. Just think about what it takes to manufacture, ship, store, replace and throw out millions of those little batteries each year. It’s enough to make a Swiss master watchmaker cry.

These days we have some great high- and low-tech options for marking time in an environmentally friendly fashion. Mechanical watches in particular have made a big comeback in recent years and they are the perfect investment if you’re looking for something to pass down to your kids. You can find quality mechanical timepieces in a range of prices, from $500 to $50,000.

Leaving aside the $25,000.00 Patek Philippe that most of us will not be acquiring in the near future, there are many affordable mechanical watches that will last a lifetime and remain stylish through most any trend. Some are automatic, meaning that the motion of the wearer drives an engine that automatically rewinds the watch, and some are manual, meaning that you must wind the watch at regular intervals.

Many men I am sure find this to be a thankless and arcane chore. To them the watch itself is outdated and obsolete, the equivalent of a wrist-borne Edsel; just use a cell phone. To me the mechanical watch is an elegant complication that is akin to art; the obligatory maintenance of which I see as an enjoyable task of personal management. Watches are style.


Rolex Submariner

The range of available options means that there is always something for everyone. The Rolex Submariner is a classic sports watch and at around $5,500.00, while not exactly cheap, is a potential choice for many professionals. If you are looking for one “good” watch you can’t go wrong with at Submariner or it's more robust (and more expensive) brother, the Sea Dweller.


Seiko Orange Monster

A very affordable alternative is the $375.00 Seiko “Orange Monster.” Yes, I said Seiko; watch aficionados know that they make some of the most reliable mechanical movements in the dive industry and the Orange Monster has its own cult following.


Citizen Eco-Drive Skyhawk

Want microsecond accuracy without having to shake your wrist? Citizen’s Eco-Drive technology transforms your watch into a big solar collector. The watch’s face and crystal absorb all types of light and convert it into the energy that runs your watch indefinitely. One of the most popular is the Citizen Skyhawk Black Eagle which lists around $475.00. It looks tough enough that no one will make fun of your social consciousness.


Jack Bauer with MTM Blackhawk

If you’re a fan of the unstoppable Jack Bauer from the TV action drama “24”, check out a favorite of mine, the Blackhawk by MTM. This is the very one Jack wears and it has a cool illumination feature that can be used to signal commandos, blind an assailant or just track down your car keys. The company’s revolutionary rechargeable lithium ion battery is good for 10 years and the watch needs only an overnight recharge every three months or so to keep it running strong. And don’t worry; the Secret Service and Delta Force have already tested it for you, so it’ll survive a rough afternoon on the back nine.


Kobold Polar Surveyor

A favorite brand of mine is one many people have never heard of: Kobold Watch Company. Based in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, founder and namesake Michael Kobold hasn't even hit 30 yet. This young watchmaker has, however, built a strong reputation among an influential and growing cadre of fans that include Hollywood A-listers and former presidents.


Kobold Soarway SEAL Diver

From beautiful complications like his Polar Surveyor to the single purpose and decidedly hefty Soarway SEAL diver, Kobold's designs are modern classics that will age very well.

These are just a few of the hundreds of watches that can help you look sharp, telegraph your values and interests, and take a small but important step to reducing your personal carbon footprint. They also give you an excuse to add a great watch to your own collection.