With Hanukkah literally upon us and less than a week until Christmas, your gift giving window is rapidly closing. With that in mind, Off The Cuff has assembled some favorite brands for your consideration.
Some of these names you know, others may be new but each one is an OTC favorite. Some are dedicated to one thing, like Molskine, while others are encompass entire families of brands, as does Ralph Lauren. It takes all kinds of businesses to make the world go 'round.
Enjoy.
Classic New England Clothing and "trad" accessories. If you're looking for an authentic Ivy League outfitter to dress you for the office (or Yale Bowl tailgate party), this is the place.
The unequaled giant of menswear style. What else can I say; when Ralph sneezes, the world catches a very stylish cold. If you can think of it, they sell it.
Since Mr. DelVechhio took over this venerable institution, Brooks has gone from outdated to leading edge. Though some decry it's apparent loss of quality, I think the redefinition of Brooks Brothers is just what the doctor ordered.
For those who know L.L. Bean, it is one of the best outfitters in the country - the real McCoy. For the uninitiated, this is the Preppy Handbook come to life - really.
The original Bean store in Freeport, Main, is open 24 hours a day, and nothing is quite a cool as showing up at 3:00 a.m., grabbing a cup of coffee off the front counter and going shopping. 
Seinfeld did not invent John Peterman, but it did make him a household name. Problem is, most people did not realize that he was real, and so was his company.
With the kind of copy normally reserved for travelogues from the 1920s, J. Peterman catalogs are cult items among the cognoscenti. But it's the stuff that gets to you - great stuff. Need a standing brass magnifying glass? Velvet squire's coat for wandering around your castle? What about a riverboat gambler's vest? He's got it and so much more.
Don't miss one of his original items, the Counterfeit Mailbag. A longtime OTC recommendation, you can read my review here. 
Another great company with a great story. From Oxford to Harvard, they have finely crafted enamel and sterling silver cuff links, regimental ties, jumpers (that's sweaters to us Yanks), and a catalog worth of other gift ideas.
And don't forget about the ribbon watch straps - Esquire Magazine sure didn't; it put them in their famous Big Black Book.
Once and a while a company comes along that redefines a genre. To me, that's what Drakes London has does for the neck wear business. Handmade from start to finish, Drakes ties are indeed made in London by real craftsmen.
Not too wide and not too narrow, the form and quality of a Drakes tie will handsomely carry you through one trend after another.
Ashley Ashoff ties are another handmade neck wear treat. Elegantly simple, restrained designs are rendered with the same silk used by Hermes. The magic here is in the texture; dense wovens and crisp prints get noticed whenever I wear mine. Every tie even comes in its own silk bag.
Tucker Blair finished needlepoint belts are true classics. Though a young company, their belts hearken back to summers on the Cape, hanging out on the dock, watching the sun go down with a cool G&T in your hand. All that from a belt. 
An original OTC favorite. Jack Spade makes great bags. In cotton, canvas, nylon or waxwear, Jack Spade bags are industrial and Fifth Avenue all at the same time. In fact, mine is sitting here right next to me, filled with everything I need.
The best notebooks out there. What else can I say? Moleskines come in every shape and size, hard cover or soft. They have a certain something that makes you want to write, draw, scribble or doodle. The very simplicity of its design defines Moleskine's iconic status. Hey, Molskines even have a fan club.
Called "pants of the gods" by GQ, Bill's Khakis are to casual trousers what Hardy Aimes was to tailors. The best. If you have never pulled on a pair of Bill's, you're missing out on a treat.
Heavy and build like two tanks wrapped around your legs, they also possess a kind of softness and comfort that normally takes time to impart. No mistake though, these are not "pre distressed" or "custom aged," it's just how they are made.
So there is no confusion allow me to clarify: these are the best khakis ever made.
Have you heard of R. Horns? Unless you are from Vienna, Austria, probably not. But if you ever stop by their little shop or happen by the minimalist web site, you will discover some exceptional leather goods.
My wallet is from Horns, a gift from my dear wife on a visit to Vienna several years ago. It still has that particular leather smell which instantly tells me it's not from the states. The leather itself is now burnished to a mellow gloss and it looks, if not new, certainly not old.
I just want to leave you a quick note to say that I'll be keeping OTC's original blue background. Thanks to everyone for their comments and suggestions! The problem is that the color coding for the sidebar links has been altered in the template and is showing up as that dark blue that is difficult to read.
I am working with Blogger on fixing this, but all the achieve links and links to former articles, sorted by month, are still there. They're just hard to see right now. I'm also moving some things around, like my profile, now up top, but everything is still there. I am also always on the lookout for new and useful sites for the blogrolls, so keep your eyes peeled for additions.
I hope all my American readers had a great holiday and that everyone is now gearing up for the holidays.
As we move into December I'm looking forward to telling you about some ideas for creative and stylish gifts - for your loved one, or just for you!
Getting one’s shoes shined used to be a regular occurrence for most men. Back when most workplaces were formal, suits, ties, and business shoes were the daily costume of every working man, from CEO to junior accountant.
After decades of erosion, the very foundation of men’s business dress was on the verge of collapse until reason and style began to slowly regain a foothold in the boardroom. As dressing well makes a comeback so, thank goodness, does the shoe shine stand.
Getting your shine on is not only a welcome, albeit brief, respite in a busy day; it is a practical investment in preserving the longevity of your footwear. Leather shoes are vulnerable creations. Water, salt, dirt, grime, and daily wear all conspire to soak, dry out, and eat away your shoes’ natural defenses. By giving your shoes what they need – a soapy cleaning, polish or crème, and wax – they will pay you back in a glossy shine noticed by women with taste and men with an eye for detail.
In some places where the suit, or at least dressing to some standard of formality never died, the shoeshine remains a pattern of daily life. Washington, D.C., is one of those places. Shoes shine stands can be found in many hotels, restaurants, clubs, and those ubiquitous franchised operations that haunt airports everywhere. There are two shoe shines stands however, that stand out from the crowd. One is the savior of Amtrak commuters and the other buffs the shoes of power.
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Washington's Union Station
In my personal opinion, one of the best shines in D.C. can be found in Union Station, overlooking the Amtrak train gates. The three elevated seats stand high in the rear concourse, roped off in a small square close enough to the gates for travelers to keep an eye on the Acela Express. These guys do such a good job that a number of commuters from New York tell me that they wait until they get to D.C.for a shine! That says something; as Nicholas Antongiavanni points out in recent issue of Classic Style magazine, there are dozens of excellent stands throughout New York.
My second choice for an excellent shine is located just a short stroll away. In the basement of the Russell Senate office building is the United States Senate Hair Care shop. In so many ways this place is a throwback to the classic barber-shop–cum-clubhouse of the 1950’s. With the witty and talented staff working on the heads of senators, house members, Supreme Court justices, and everyday folks, there is almost always someone interesting wandering in or out of the place.
Russel Senate Office Building
The shoe shine stand is tucked up against the hallway which leads to the men and women who sculpt our fearless leaders’ coifs. While the shine itself is excellent, the real the treat is to see who is waiting for a cut or a quick buff of their requisite Brooks Brother’s tasseled loafers.
The best part of all is that it’s open to the public; anyone is welcome. If you want to get a haircut, just make sure to call for an appointment as it can get pretty busy in there.
When you get dressed in the morning, what inspires you? Who do you see as a stylish icon - who do you emulate? Do you turn to certain books or magazines for a creative shot in the arm? I’m not only talking about clothes; it could be ideas on pens or bags, watches or shoes, or organizing your closet or library. Even ideas on etiquette or decorum can come from different sources; and most women will tell you that a guy who is a true gentleman is way ahead of the pack. These are what I call the building blocks of individual style.
Your Reference Library
Building up a pool of style resources is an important and personal endeavor. Luckily for men, more than ever before information and resources are available on dressing well and finding your own style.
Create your own reference library. It can be as compact as a spare bookcase or as grand as a dedicated home office. This should be a place where you can store all the things that inspire you and that make up your personal style guide. Your reference library can include books, favorite pieces of clothing, magazine ads, cigar boxes or anything else that catches your attention. I turned a spare room into my study. It's filled with all the things that I find inspirational: lots of books, family pictures and art; boxes of magazine clippings, and old pens and watches. Everything in the room represents a part of who I am and what I find interesting in life.
The Bookcase
Here are some classic men’s clothing and lifestyle books that you can use to start your own reference library. This is by no means an exhaustive list, but this selection is chock full of good information, advice and suggestions. Have your own favorites that you want to share? Let me know: OfftheCuffDC@comcast.net.
Elegance, by G. Bruce Boyer
Dressing the Man, by Alan Flusser
(Author of several excellent guides, he is a leading authority on classic men’s style)
Gentleman’s Guide to Grooming and Style, by Bernhard Roetzel
(This encyclopedic behemoth covers every category you could ever imagine)
The Preppy Handbook, by Lisa Birnbach
(Humorous satire? You bet; but there is also a lot of fun and truthful information in there.)
A Well-Dressed Gentleman’s Pocket Guide, by Oscar Lenius
(A great little guide)
Off the Cuff, by Carson Kressley
(Yes, he’s a little over the top, but Kressley worked for Ralph Lauren and could probably teach a class on individual style.)
Maximum Style, by Perry Garfinkel, Brian Chichester
(A good all-around started guidebook)
As for magazines, a particular favorite of mine is Men’s Vogue. Menswear, a larger format bi-annual magazine is a great publication and also gives industry insight. Fantastic Man is an avant-garde option that will keep you up to date on European trends. For really classic style, take a look at Classic Style magazine. GQ and Esquire are two industry standard bearers.
Last year, Esquire came out with “The Big Black Book” - sort of a cross between a book and a magazine. It has an excellent style guide and highlights all sorts of classics every guy should have in his closet. I recently reviewed the 2007 edition that hit the stands last month. In a nutshell, it's even better. Here is a link to my review.
Building Blocks of Personal Style
Figuring out who you really want to be and finding sources of inspiration to help you get there are important steps in creating your own true style. From my viewpoint, men’s style follows an architectural pattern. Imagine that personal style is like designing a building.
First, you have the foundation – good shoes. Then there is the support structure – pants. The main façade - jackets, sweaters and shirts; and the decorative elements – ties, cufflinks, gloves, hats, glasses. Finally there is the streetscape, those elements that put you into a context. They are things like bearing, attitude, etiquette, and an overall sense of who you are.
By breaking this all into smaller pieces, the whole process of self-evaluation feels less overwhelming. It captures your layers of style and the different elements that come together to tell everyone who you are. That way, when you see a shirt, understand why you like it and how it fits into your personal style, you’re actually seeing the whole building.
When last in New York, I took some time to stroll along Fifth Avenue and wound up stopping at the GANT flagship store. While this may not sound like an overly significant event, for me it was an eye-opening experience.While an unfair characterization, my gut reaction to the GANT brand has long been something to the effect of, “GANT….don’t they make bland weekend wear I usually find on the discount rack?” At some level, I knew this was unmerited because one of my all time favorite story board catalogs is actually from GANT. It reads like a memoir from Marrakesh – complete with inserted typewritten journal pages. The clothes looked great and the overall feel was very updated and creative.
GANT's Fifth Avenue Store, Main FloorStill, this was at odds with what I actually knew of GANT – at least (as I came to discover) its American incarnation. Much like IZOD downgrading the storied history of Lacoste, the GANT of my youth was embodied in generic looking windbreakers and uninspiring rugby-like shirts. As a brand, it was completely forgettable.Then, several years ago, Tom, a friend of mine moved to D.C. from Europe and asked where he could find GANT clothes in the states. I thought about it and told him that I honestly had no idea. Why, I asked, would such a smart dresser seek out the very definition of bland sportswear? Tom pointed out that half of what he had on was, in fact, GANT. I was stunned. I learned that in Europe, GANT was another brand altogether – more Ralph Lauren than Ralph Kramden.Founded in my hometown of New Haven, Connecticut, by Bernard Gant, his small shirt making business went on to become a cornerstone in the WASP fashion ethos. Gant manufactured shirts for the likes of Brooks Brothers and fellow New Haven institution, J. Press. In 1949, the family launched their own brand and GANT was born. Focused on the emerging desire for dressy casual clothes, they introduced such innovations as the button down sports shirt to the market. The combination of exacting quality and innovative takes on traditional American styles eventually drove GANT to national prominence.After the Gant family sold the company in 1967, a series of corporate owners diluted the brand’s WASPy message and it eventually receded to the state of averageness I knew.
In the 1980s a Swedish company acquired the rights to license the brand everywhere except the United States. They infused GANT’s historically traditional East Coast American appeal with a clean and tailored European twist. GANT’s European arm eventually eclipsed the American one; the Swedes had essentially out-Americaned the Americans.
This situation explains why, when my European friend Tom and I were talking about GANT, we were in fact talking about two different worlds.After finally acquiring the U.S. brand, the now international GANT entered its original home market in 2001. No longer dowdy and generic, America was reintroduced to one of its classic brands. The combination of European design sensibilities and American heritage was a domestic hit and GANT has prospered and grown since.
While the American presence is mostly limited to clothing and some timepieces, GANT’s European portfolio also includes house wares and linens. Bernard Gant’s shirt making business has now grown into a global lifestyle brand. Why it has taken me song to catch on to GANT’s global presence is a mystery, but I suppose some prejudices are hard to shake.Once in the Fifth Avenue store though, I found myself transported to an urban preppy-ish library cum boarding school space. There was a distinct personality to the store and to the clothes: fresh but traditional, young but classically grown up. American, yet somehow European too. I even felt a little Hackett being channeled in some of the sport coats. It was a wonderful and wholly unexpected experience. That’s what I get for not paying enough attention to such a worthy company.
The Sartorialist Shoots GANTSo, if you find yourself looking for a new and different take on New England Americana, check out GANT. At testament to their new domestic prowess, Scott Schumann (The Sartorialist) recently shot a series based on GANT outfits. The models, amateurs all, got to put together their own GANT looks. Not surprisingly, everyone looked great. Now, that’s pretty cool.
Today, I sat in the seat of power. No, I did not sneak into the West Wing like Al Gore on Saturday Night Live. Nor did I warm the big chair for Nancy Pelosi while she took a call off the House floor.
I was nearby though, in another bastion of power and style; the Senate barber, or more accurately, Senate Haircare. Even for locals it's an open secret that anyone from anywhere can get a haircut in this time capsule of a shop located in subterranean halls of the Russell Senate Office Building. On any given day you will be seated next to people you are more accustomed to seeing on the evening news or a Sunday talk show.
Of course, you won't bump into Senator Edwards, apparently it's not swanky enough. No worries though, it's his loss because they do an excellent job at a much more reasonable price - currently a mere $18. Still, it's always an interesting experience. Once, to my surprise, I looked over and saw Supreme Court Justice Steven Breyer next to me. Sharp guy, very nice.
If you do want to swing by for a cut, its best to call ahead for an appointment. And bear in mind that if a senator or congressman calls in for a last minute trim, you'll just have to wait. There's even a sign on the wall telling you so, albeit in very formal and reasonable language.
Today, in fact, I was bumped by a politely grateful representative from a certain southern state. But that's alright because it's always worth the wait. The staff is not only talented and interesting, it's great to hear them discuss legislation and senate traditions like the old pros they are. It's also old school; you get a strait razor and warm lather to clean up the edges and trim your sideburns.
This is a true story: Back when he was running for president in 1980, George H. W. Bush (that’s George senior) was giving a speech at his alma mater, Yale University, and being heckled by some students. Someone yelled out that Bush was just another out of touch “Brooks Brothers Republican.” The president, apparently offended by that particular remark, promptly opened his suit coat to reveal its J. Press label.
I’ve always liked that story because it shows the deep dedication that some cultures naturally create. J. Press has that kind of culture. It is the quintessential New England prep-Yale Man-old money-Ivy League brand that the J. Crews and Ralph Laurens of the world want you to think they are. Not that there is anything wrong with either of those brands, I’m a fan of both. But J. Press is special because that’s where it all started. It’s the real deal.
New Haven Store at ChristmasThough not as well known commercially as Brooks Brothers – there are four brick and mortar J. Press stores to Brooks’ nearly 200 – J. Press is as classically preppy as you can get. In fact it quite literally invented the look. From the 1930s through the’50s, Press helped to cement the image of American preppy in the minds of college students everywhere. Known as the “Yale” or “Ivy League” look, it came to define the stylish New England intellectual or at least moneyed, layer of society that was the ruling class of the time. A hybrid of English prep school uniform and traditional American wear, the preppy look is timeless.
Jacobi Press in his New Haven StoreFounded in 1902 by Jacobi Press, in my hometown of New Haven, Connecticut, his namesake company has always adhered to a traditional some would say conservative, design philosophy. Much of their clothing is still American made and most of the shirts, ties, jackets and trousers are quite indistinguishable from from your father's wardrobe. Mr. Press would probably feel right at home were he to walk into one of his stores today. In fact, the New Haven flagship has never moved from its original location.
Sartorial innovations like the sack suit and natural shoulder were invented here. The trademark three-button suit coat with the rolled lapel that visually converts it to a two-button is also a Press innovation. The sack suit itself, given global branding by Jack Kennedy as the definitive American suit, is also credited to J. Press.
Another Press signature is the lack of pleated trousers. All J. Press suits have flat front pants and always have; it’s the kind of consistency and tradition that make the company such an icon among its customers, generation after generation. Where Brooks Brothers’ shirts are famously voluminous, Press shirts are more trim and discreet. Their shirts also have, should you choose the option, a distinctive flapped pocket. that's a little too quirky for me so I stick with the open pocket.But don’t mistake that tradition and adherence to New England stylistic values for old-fashion stodginess. Though clearly smaller when compared to Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart or even Joseph A. Bank (once colloquially known as the poor man's Brook Brothers), J. Press is a global player and major style influencer on the Trad front. To see just how popular and relevant J. Press is to the fashion world – at least for the true preppy market – you need to go a little ways past New Haven, all the way to Japan.
J. Press is huge in Japan. In 1974, the Press family sold the rights to license J. Press in Japan; becoming in fact the first American brand to be licensed in that country. To many a Japanese professional, the sartorial standard by which business and traditional dress is measured is J. Press. In fact, the company is today a wholly owned subsidiary of its Japanese parent, Onward Kashiyama Co., Ltd. Onward Kashiyama realized almost immediately that to preserve J. Press’ Ivy League cachet, it needed to stay out of the way. And that it has done. Walk into any Press store today and it feels like the company never expanded past the boundaries of Yale, Harvard or the other Ivy's. Sure, the recently opened Madison Avenue store has a fresher, deco feel to it, but you still know it's J. Press.
That is the magic of this unique and cherished brand; it knows what it is, who its customers are and what they value. You cannot simply buy that kind of loyaly or respect through advertising or tarted-up branding. It's earned. J. Press has maintained its preppy core values and remains the truest expression of traditional New England Style. What else would you expect?
Just a quick note to highlight a great new style news resource - www.DAPP3R.com.
It's a pooled news feed site that gathers and organizes fashion related news, press releases and blog posts into an extensive and organized list of menswear topics.
DAPP3R.com's stated goal is to deliver a broad spectrum of men's fashion information, the hottest and latest stories and everything that goes with it. They're doing a pretty good job so far.
Dapp3r is part of the LOUD3R Network, which has a stable of news sites that cover everything from cricket to venture capital to politics. I've added it to our Style Advice & Experts list, so check it out and let me know what you think.
I wanted to give everyone an update on the progress of my VM Clothiers custom suit. I am very happy to say that it is now in my hands after being literally hand carried back from Hong Kong. Part 1 of this series can be found HERE.
I’m now in the process of putting it through a few real-world workouts. Overall, my immediate impression is a good one and I am very happy with the quality, fit, feel and construction.I’ll get back to you with a more detailed review, but first I'd like to share some great pictures of the suit taken as it was being constructed in Hong Kong.
All of these images are courtesy of Vishal Mirpuri, owner of VM Clothiers.
My suit's stencilFirst, a stencil is created for each individual panel of fabric that will be sewn together. The stencil is based on the measurements and instructions taken from the suit's order form. Order forms tend to be very detailed as there are so many variations available to the customer. They can range from basic options like single or double vents to exotic interior pocket configurations.
They then cut the individual panels of fabric using the stencil. Each customer's stencil is kept on file for future orders.
Once the primary pieces of the garment are assembled, the master sewer takes over and begins the exacting process of sewing the jacket together. This includes major tasks, like sewing the arms to the jacket's body and more detailed work, like creating button holes.After the jacket is sewn together, finishing touches are made, including setting the jacket's final shape. The photo at the top if the page shows this stage. The white basting thread is left in place until the jacket is ironed into shape.
Above, you see the tailor making some final adjustments during a quality control review. Each suit is inspected to ensure everything has been done correctly.
This is the point when it all comes together - measurements and construction, balance, details, style and the many unique variations that make a custom suit "custom".
A rack of finished suits
I am in New York on business right now and had the chance to walk around Midtown in the swirling snow.
It's really coming down this evening and though that leads to slippery sidewalks and slower going, for me walking around this city in any weather is a treat.
In particular, I had the chance to stop in at one of my favorite men's stores, Jay Kos, on Park Avenue. I have not had the chance to visit for a while and was mildly surprised to learn that the original location up on Lexington had been closed. Jay apparently decided to consolidate retail operations in the Park Avenue space - overall, it's a smart move and a great location.
Jay Kos (Sartorialist.com)
He also moved out of children's clothing - too bad as I'm expecting my first child. I would have liked a few of those sweaters. Though the high end children's clothing market in Manhattan is a lucrative one, Kos is again focusing all his attention on his core menswear market.
Jay Kos PackagingAnd he knows how to focus. Jay Kos consistently offers some of the most interesting and luxurious clothes; from jewel colored cords to navy cashmere hopsack blazers. I tried on two sport coats - including that cashmere hopsack - and the fit is extraordinary. So are the prices, but that's neither here nor there. If you go shopping at Jay Kos, accept that you'll pay a premium and know you're getting some of the best clothing you'll find anywhere.
Tommy Hass in Jay Kos (Men's Vogue)
I've been following Kos' progress since first seeing him profiled as an upstart shop owner in GQ back in 1996. I knew that he was something special; a young guy with excellent taste and little tolerance for men with a weak sartorial backbone. From there he built a cult following and a reputation for top notch Italian and English inspired wares.
Though it has a fairly small footprint, you can cover a lot of ground in the store - custom suits, exceptional footwear, a wall of socks, sport coats, sweaters, handmade hats and hand rolled cigars.
He is not afraid of color either, with bright greens, oranges and reds popping up in unexpected places. So if you want to add a stylish splash to your wardrobe, stop by 475 Park Avenue. It's not a large store, but it's one of the best in New York.
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