In this weekend's edition of the Wall Street Journal, I read a great piece about Norman Rockwell's famous painting, "Freedom of Speech".
The iconic image, pictured here, represents one of the four "essential freedoms" set forth in Franklin D. Roosevelt's inauguration speech of January 6, 1941. The painting was made in 1943 as part of the four image series. While the other three - Freedom From Want, Freedom From Fear and Freedom Of Worship - are equally inspiring, Freedom of Speech is particularly special to me.
Apart from allusions to the Lincoln-inspired central figure and the less direct hints of church and school, central tenets of American culture, what caught my attention was the jacket.
That central figure, the common man speaking his mind at a town meeting, is wearing an Army Air Corp A-1 flight jacket. The symbolism of the jacket, clearly worn and softened by age, tells us that perhaps he served in the military in his younger days and now works in a manual but honorable field. He is the embodiment of the classic "great citizen".
A modern version of the A-1
I once had that jacket, in a manner of speaking, and mourn its loss whenever I think about it - like now. Many years ago I ordered the A-1 from the now defunct Willis & Geiger, then a part of Lands' End. I felt, once I had actually tried it on, that the jacket was too snug and a bit too new looking. So, I returned it; what an idiot. Shortly thereafter W&G closed its virtual doors and the jacket was gone for good.
Only now do I fully appreciate the totally unique and classic style this jacket represents. Why is it snug? To fit close to the pilot's body in the cramped cockpit. It's button-front closure is the result of the zipper not yet having been invented in 1927, the A-1'a year of issue. The knit collar, a variant of the baseball jacket type, was designed to close snug around a pilot's neck and keep out the cold wind of an open cockpit.
Too new looking? Well, it was new and I was stupid. In hindsight I see with painful clarity how beautifully that capeskin would have aged. So it goes.
The A1 is the predecessor to the better known A2 and it is easy to see the early DNA of the endlessly copied A2. Technically referred to as the A1 Summer Flying Jacket and manufactured as Navy issue from November 1927 to 1931, it was eventually replaced by the G1.
The well-known A-2
Eastman, a manufacturer of exacting reproductions notes that the A-1 was synonymous with early aviation heroes, including Jimmy Doolittle, Ira Eaker and Carl Spaatz. The A-1 was also the very first of the windcheater-type flying jackets outfitted with knitted waist and cuffs, and a design that was to set the basic outline for flying jacket styling to this day.
Eastman's Reproduction A-1
Although superseded in design by the A-2 in1931, the A-1 was still being issued, albeit in limited numbers, well into the 1940s, and was not officially declared obsolete until September 29th 1944.
Originally, the A-1 was specified to be made from a olive drab cape leather, but the few existing examples that can be found today are always a chestnut-brown shade of capeskin. High detail replicas, essentially historical reproductions, can cost anywhere from $800 to $1,200. Modern versions in hide can run around $400.
The great thing about the the A-1 is that it is both a classic example of timeless style and something at works seamlessly with say, jeans, a white J.Press oxford and old docksiders. It's both old school and modern cool and you can't beat that combination.
You may have noticed that the span of time between posts has been a little longer recently.
Unfortunately, we are in the midst of a family emergency here. My father is quite ill and for a brief period of time, we were not sure if things would go his way.
He has recovered a bit and while his prognosis improves, dad is still very much in the thick of the woods. Being the sons of this retired physician, my brothers and I each understand the reality of life but also the vital importance of a positive outlook. I am very confident that he will recover and get back to a slightly less busy schedule.
At the same time this was all unfolding, I was also engaged in several reader discussions on the importance of personal style and finding one's own sartorial voice. As a small tribute to the man who shaped much of the person I am today, I am reposting an article from several years ago on this very topic.
The most significant impact on my personal style is without a doubt that of my father's. While there have been many other influences, from magazines and movies to managing a Ralph Lauren store, it always comes back to him.
My father has a timeless sense of taste and a respect for quality. He is, at heart, a J. Press man. He attended Yale College and then Yale Medical School back when young men were required to wear coat and tie to class, so Press was very much a part of his life. Beyond that, though, he is a true to form OCBD kind of guy.
To my knowledge, as long as I have been alive, he has never owned a pair of jeans.
He has always been without pretense though, never believing that any advantages offered to him by life made a whit of difference. He lives life very much as he dresses; comfortable and classic without being stuffy or off-putting.
To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy, which is very important given his profession. In fact, he recently wrapped up a teaching position at his alma mater - educating medical students on how to actually interact with people.
Grandpa with his granddaughters
While he is a conservative dresser, my dad is by no means a sartorial wallflower. From white tie, tails and top hat for an annual dinner dance to creamy flannels, blue blazer, and a panama for a summer’s concert under the stars, he most certainly exemplifies great personal style.
I have many many mental snapshots of him that have helped to cement my love for clothing and its power. But one memory stands out because it was less about what he had on and more about who he is.
I was with a friend who worked in the hospital’s emergency room and we had stopped by so that he could drop something off. I tried to stay out of the way and unobtrusively stood in a corner watching the commotion.
Unexpectedly, I saw my dad come around the corner wearing a seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty. In the emergency room no less! He has always held a strong personal belief that as a physician his patients always deserved to be treated with dignity because of the trust they put in him. Dressing well is a simple and visible show of that respect and affection.
What will forever hold a special place in my heart is what happened next. Not seeing me, he walked over to a man lying on a gurney along the wall, gently leaned over him and began to talk. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my dad's patient relax a bit. To him, that man was the only person in the world who mattered.
At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help this sick person. In that instant, the style on the outside was eclipsed by the man on the inside.
More than any glossy magazine or celebrity, that image will always be my definition of true style.
I just fielded a question from a good friend regarding the standing of short sleeve dress shirts. As I explained, succinctly I think, there is no such thing as a short sleeve dress shirt.
There are dress shirts worn with the sleeves rolled up – usually to indicate intense focus and determination and often accompanied by a dramatic soundtrack- but there are no short sleeve dress shirts. Camp shirts are similar, in the way that a pup tent is similar to an Airstream trailer, but that’s about it.I don't often get riled up about these sorts of things, but to put it bluntly, the very formality and purpose of a dress shirt is emasculated once the sleeves are cut off. There is just no way around it.
Additionally, very, very few people can even pull one off. The end result often falls far short of the desired outcome. It is one of those male garments that almost always fails to meet the expectations of both the wearer and the observer.I know, I know - it’s actually really hot in other parts of the country. And in the Southern states a long sleeve shirt can be seen as a particular hassle in the hot, humid summer. Unfortunately that just doesn’t matter. I mentioned camp shirts earlier; these are a fine alternative to other short sleeved casual shirts, polo shirts in particular. But they are not substitute dress shirts.
This camp shirt works, but in a casual wayWhen the discussion reaches this point, we have to get down to brass tacks and say, “I need to take a good look at my wardrobe.” Too warm in the long sleeve dress shirts you already own? Chances are you’re wearing oxford cloth shirts and you are correct, they are way too heavy for summer. Try out a couple of nice pinpoint oxfords. They are very sharp looking and much more lightweight.Even better, how about a few Sea Island or Egyptian cotton dress shirts? While they tend to cost the same a secondhand Volvo, they are very lightweight and feel like silk.
Roll your sleeves up, don't cut them offIf the whole short sleeve dress shirt issue is more about trying to be "kind of" dressed up, but not too much so, there are many options besides the alleged “short sleeve” dress shirt. Just roll up your sleeves and get to work.
Really, feel free to drop me a line and we'll sort it out.
No the clearest of pictures, but this guy is always on the move. I couldn't get him to stand still long enough for a clear shot. KR is a honest-to-goodness DC lobbyist and a darn good one at that. He's also a very snappy dresser.
A South Carolina native, he passes up the standard suit and tie when he can. Here he is sporting a pair of beat up J. Crew "Nantucket Reds" (I know, not the real ones from Murray's Toggery), white oxford and just out of view some nice Allen Edmunds loafers.
He always points out that the pants were a good deal at the J.Crew outlet. One of the great things about KR is that he he has his own sense of style and anyone who doesn't like it can just go to hell. In fact, he has some of the best GTH pants I've seen. I would call his look Southern preppy/urbane casual. Even when he's totally dressed down, there is a certain coolness to the ensemble.
Some of you might remember KR from the Black Tie and Boots Ball at President Obama's inauguration. I always tell him that he has the kind of style that will get him on the web, so be on the lookout for future shots.
President Obama's sense of style is back on the front burner - at least in DC.The Washington Examiner newspaper recently noted a fashion trend among the influential and political. They want to look like Barrack Obama. More specifically, they want to dress like him.While the classic dark two-button suit is about as de rigueur as you can get in the Nation's Capitol, many men don't seem to do it very well. Those who do tend to retain the services of a custom tailor and it is these gentlemen who are spilling the beans. Tony and powerful clients, from A-list lobbyists to committee chairs, ambassadors to diplomats, all seem to be heading in the same sartorial direction. And that path leads to 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue.According to Anthony Asaf of Empire International Custom Tailors, many of his political clients are asking for slimmer suits, trim pant legs and a more natural shoulder with less padding. Asaf, who regularly travels to Washington from Hong Kong and whose suits can run north of $4,000, says that Obama’s influence is being felt more and more in the fitting room.FIT & BODY TYPEOne reason that President Obama is having such an impact on the suited world is that unlike many of us, he always seems to look good in a suit. Yes, they tend to be conservative, dark, two-button suits paired with white shirts and reassuring ties. But that is to be expected. He is, after all, the President of the United States and it is incumbent on him to project a solid and secure image. But what gets the attention is how Obama wears his suits; and the key there is that they fit well and they fit his body type.
Just by addressing these two factors, fit and body type, most men could improve their appearance ten-fold. One of the classic keys to looking good is knowing your body type and buying clothes that flatter your real body – not the one you wish or think you have. This is true for men of all shapes and sizes. Last year I wrote a column about one the country’s top stores for shorter men in which this exact issue was addressed.The president is tall, over six feet, and in excellent shape. As he tends to opt for cardiovascular workouts, basketball for example, he is lean rather than bulky. His suits therefore have longer and narrower proportions. However, they do not cling to him – they are cut to provide a degree of movement and form that also balance his height and avoid a skinny, gangly appearance. The result is the now familiar trim and slightly athletic silhouette.DETAILSThe president’s classic two-button jackets are proportionally tailored to match the longer scale of his torso – proper scale being a benefit of custom suiting that any man would appreciate. Men with similar physiques should also avoid suits that are too tight or overly fitted as they can accentuate the wearer’s skinny frame. What makes the president’s suits look so good on him is that they are fitted but not too much so.
His trousers have a trimness that still allows for fluid movement while avoiding a stick figure effect. They also tend to incorporate a generous break which provides the visual reference of grounding his legs. If he wore them with little or no break, attention would be drawn to the leg and likely give the impression of wearing “high waters”. He also appears to favor a slight tapering on the pant leg which also deemphasizes the leg’s “swing” – another problem faced by men with longer legs.
PRESENTATIONOn a more philosophical level, Obama’s clothes match his persona. The clean and elegant lines of his suits, and frankly his casual wear, blend naturally with his overall demeanor.Mr. Obama has a unique style that is new to the White House. This president is urban and urbane, intellectual and in a way quite professorial; but he is not bookish per se. Still new to the job, he is young but not immature and though he possesses echoes of John F. Kennedy’s “new vigah”, it is (to me) without any blatant imitation.
His pared down but detailed wardrobe reflects these traits. Verging on monochromatic though still fresh, elegant but sparing; his clothes reflect well on the man in a simple and straightforward manner.
Way back in the ‘80s getting dressed for the office, assuming you worked at an office, was fairly easy. It was a suit. Not a good suit mind you, but a suit. Boring shirt, forgettable tie and cap toe shoes.More often than not the whole outfit was forgettable because so little personality was evident. Even the leading men’s fashion book of the time, the landmark “Dress For Success” essentially encouraged its readers to dress like everyone else, but perhaps in a finer cut of suit.It was a stifling period of time that helped lend fuel to the dot-com boom of the 1990s which, among other things, turned the world of work clothing on its head. At its apex, the rules that governed the very concept of business attire and professional decorum were being tossed out the window wholesale. In formally formal workplaces casual Fridays were adopted and the predictable erosion of style ensued.The work world devolved into a sea of pleated khakis and denim shirts.Fast forward to today. Men’s clothing is back with a vengeance. There are many factors that went into this sea change – much of a backlash against the hyper casual-cum-sloppy look which had become annoyingly prevalent by the early ‘90s. After the economic collapse of 2008, many companies began reinstating some form of dress code and all this coincided with a resurgence of interest in men’s fashion. What’s different now is that personal style is the rule rather than the exception.THE NEW COOLMen are finally taking back what they gave up decades ago – good taste, style, and a sense of swagger. If the “Decade of Gap” gave us anything sartorially useful, it is the realization that guys do, in fact, have a real desire to feel good about how they look. It also gave the menswear industry the chance to essentially reinvent itself.Dressing well is the new cool and a key aspect to the new cool is taking classics and reinterpreting them. Designers like Michael Bastian, Zanone (part of Slowear) and Billy Reid are injecting new life and a fresh perspective into classic menswear and making it feel new again.
Zanone's clean lines (also at top) & Michael Bastian's updated AmericanaAnd it’s definitely not all about suit anymore. In fact, for a lot of men a suit is simply another option in the wardrobe; not a sacred stand-alone piece reserved for special occasions. The middle ground of of dressy casual, or business casual in office speak, is where many guys live Monday through Friday and much of the growth in the menswear market is geared for just that.
Billy Reid's timeless yet casual lookSome companies like J. Crew are being called out (by some OTC readers to be sure) for overdoing it and making the classics look more like caricature. I don't disagree that for some brands the "new preppy" is being beaten into formulaic iteration.
But not to worry, dressing well - and on your own terms - is fairly simple if you remember a couple of rules.DON’T BE A “LOOK”First and foremost, be true to yourself. Know what kinds of clothes you like and what looks good on you. Always pay attention to style, fit, balance and purpose. The clothes you wear should match your style and personality, they need to fit you well, they need to work with each other, and they need to make sense.A SUIT STILL MAKES ANY GUY LOOK GOODWearing a suit every day makes life relatively easy – just find a shirt and tie that match.Even if you aren’t leading a board meeting, you can still suit up in a dressed down way. Skip the tie altogether and toss on a patterned shirt with a shorter spread collar and high second button.
President Obama popularized this look on the campaign trail while sporting mainly solid white or blue shirts. George Clooney also makes this work; but then again he’s George Clooney.
Obama's popular open collar look
Clooney goes for an extra buttonThe main point is that you don’t want to look like you forgot your tie – you want to look like you don’t need one. To inject a little color into the outfit, pocket squares are a simple option.When it comes to the suit, classic really is best: single breasted, notch lapel, two-button. If you want to personalize a little bit, try peaked lapels instead of notched and double vents instead of the standard American single vent.If you really want the three-button jacket go for a “3/2 roll” which just means that the top button rolls with the lapel and gives the overall appearance of a two-button jacket. Try and avoid ventless jackets, they can seem dated and are frankly uncomfortable to wear.If this is your first “good” suit classic grey or blue will be most versatile. Take some time and pick a shade that best suits your complexion and personality. You can always add patterns and striped later.
Ede and Ravenscroft of London - a very nice suitAlways keep in mind that depending where you are in the country, or world for that matter, regional traditions will always dictate what is appropriate. A sport coat and nice pants may be considered dressy in Las Vegas, but if you’re meeting in New York it should probably be coat and tie.SANS THE SUITWhile dressing well doesn’t necessarily mean dressing up, that is no excuse to look like you’re taking out the trash.Even when you’re not obligated to, try and go for a more polished look when heading off to the office. That means tailored clothing – stuff that both fits your style but also your body. Properly fitted clothes makes you look better, thinner and smart. The look below, from Hermes, is an excellent example of a casually stylish outfit that would look great on almost anyone.
Hermes: Fall 2009A classic blue blazer, with or without brass buttons, is an exceedingly useful article of clothing. It’s the workhorse of your wardrobe and can cover you in most any situation. Pair it with dress pants and a cashmere sweater, beat up khakis and polo shirt, or your favorite jeans and Turnbull & Asser shirt; it works with everything.
Well fitting, classic separates
So, don’t be afraid to try something new and bring your work wardrobe into the 21st century. By updating classic cornerstones – the suit, the blazer, the dress shirt and the pocket square – you can give your own sense of style a grown up look without looking dated.
In Part One of this essay, we discussed some of the recent and dramatic changes that have set the concept and practice of brand loyalty on a dramatically new course.
It’s still an ongoing shift, but the edges of the curve of the new pathway are becoming clearer.In plain terms, what is changing, and by extension changing how companies market their wares, is that basic level of customer loyalty to a brand is becoming fragmented and layered. A simple statement like, “I like Ralph Lauren” is now more of an, “I like Ralph Lauren polo shirts, but I like J. Press oxfords. And I prefer vintage jeans.” The cache of a single brand defining a customer’s life is fast fading.Combine that with a collapsed economy and gutted luxury market and you have a rapidly evolving landscape when it comes to telling all your potential customers exactly who you are and why you matter. And speaking of numbers, don’t expect to see the like of 2008 sales figures until at least 2012. From couture to watches and handbags to footwear, the overall luxury market has significantly retracted. And that directly affects the related mass luxury and aspirational markets.Another factor is the quality issue. With purchases being scrutinized by customers like never before, those labels that grew at a global scale and licensed out all their branded accessories may face the wrath of buyers tired of sub-par quality for the sake of the name. It’s fair to say that smaller brands with tight controls on design, production and quality – and who actually make things people want to buy – will win out in the coming loyalty game. Luxury again is going to mean exclusivity.ALL ABOUT THE GUYSNot all is totally bleak, however. Menswear is faced with another, albeit happier, wrinkle. All those men who for generations did not care much about this season’s Pantone color or whether summer scarves are “in” are not only becoming active in their fashion choices but actually becoming market movers. Across the spectrum of retail, men are taking a more active role in outfitting their own wardrobes, carefully selecting accessories and fussing over things like quality and provenance. Retailers quickly took notice and have both broadened and deepened their menswear selections.The reasons are myriad, but many men have shaken off the stale myth that they don’t care about style, fashion, luxury and looking good. When Off The Cuff hit the web way back in 2006, most of the sites now listed in OTC’s blog roll did not even exist. Today however, guys are looking for help and advice on all matters sartorial. Men now actively seek out information and feedback about products, brands and trends that interest them.More to the point, they are also looking for validation and community about the brands that they like. The brand itself is not enough; they want to be part of a sartorial tribe, if you will. To be sure, there is also a strong desire to stand alone, to be unique. We all want the one thing that sets us apart from the herd – but not too far. Most of us want to stand out just enough to let the others know that we are our own man, but not be a jerk about it.For example, I’ll be writing shortly about Kobold watches. The upstart high-end adventure watch company is now 10 years old but still a niche brand and many of its adherents like it that way. To them it adds a layer of respectable obscurity to something most men consider a key marker of status and personality. In a sense, its unique personality increases its value.As the concept of what exactly a brand means and who decides if it’s worth something becomes more decentralized, defining who you are is becoming more personal and individual. And with men educating themselves about style, fashion, etiquette and luxury, brands that heretofore could consider themselves one-stop-shops will have to change their approach.SHIFTING GEARSSome large brands are trying to address this issue. J. Crew, a company that now intently focuses on its male customers, developed the Liquor Store men’s shop in New York’s SoHo to highlight limited edition wares. J. Crew also produces a regular men’s only catalog that stresses unique product collaborations with specialized partners.
This approach allows the overall brand to remain whole but provide customers with a sense of individuality and more importantly, the feeling that these specialized products meet a higher standard, like Red Wing boots for example.
It all boils down to a growing customer base that simply does not need to be told who they are or what they really want or what kind of life they should lead. They may read lots of fashion and style magazines and check out yours truly on blogger, but they are the ones who decide what their “look” is. The brands need to meet their approval.
The Panerai Marina
Let’s say I like Panerai watches (who doesn’t?), and maybe I want to buy one. I look through the company website, of course. But I also check out the blogosphere and look up feedback on specific models. Who’s tested and reviewed one, and if so which one? Any tweets? Where can I find one on the secondary market, and what does Watch Report or Hodinkee say? All this before I ever get close to a salesman or company representative.IT'S ALL ABOUT ME (AND YOU)In my own case, there are several brands that right off the bat fit my own self image: J. Crew, J. Press, Drakes London, Michael Bastain, Ralph Lauren and Slowear for example. But it’s not only clothing. When I think of my personal brand, I also think of Monocle magazine, Filson bags, my favorite Omas 360 pen, Moleskine notebooks or the sterling silver money clip from Tiffany that was a gift from my wife. Even the waxed cord from the hang tag on my Jack Spade bag connects me to that brand just a little bit more. I wear it on my wrist.All of these outside brands are part of my own personal brand, but I am not a whole-cloth adherent to any one of them. Basically, I’m vetting the brand to see if it meets my standards and fits into my life.Since people now have multiple sources to learn about style and fashion, history, culture, craftsmanship and etiquette – all the things that go into one’s sense of personal taste and style – a “brand” is now more about the customer than, well, the brand.The brand needs to fit who I am, not the other way around.
Last week an interesting thing happened. As I headed out the door to catch the Metro and head to the office, I realized that my pants were too short. Way too short.Now, I pay fairly close attention to my wardrobe, as you might guess, and I know that all the pants in my closet should fit. Some are more fitted than others, but when it comes to the basics –like length– they all should fit just fine.I was already running late and did not have time to turn back so I decided to deal with my errant trousers at work. The lightweight poplin pants from J. Crew were fairly new so this turn of events was a bit odd.Once I took a good look at the hem, I had an on-the-fly solution. Using my handy Swiss Army knife, I quickly ripped out the seams. In just a few minutes I had a new pair of shabby-chic summer khakis in the proper length. Since there is now no room for a new turned hem, I plan on having the bottoms stitched as is with a somewhat raw edge. Though I hate to admit it, in retrospect I think the legs lost their length in the wash – so I’ll take the blame on this one.I bring up this story because that same day I happened to be wearing a Charles Tyrwhitt banker-stripe shirt that also suffers from length issues. In this case, the sleeves were exactly too short for my arms. The French cuffs landed just above the wrist bones and as a result they just never fit correctly. I loved the shirt but could never wear it as intended.
So, instead of throwing it in the donation pile, I found a simple and stylish solution: I rolled up the sleeves. In fact, because the sleeves we too short to begin with, once rolled up, they fit perfectly without any excess bulk.Since then, that shirt has been my repurposed “dressy casual” rolled sleeves shirt. Since it has a spread collar and high-set second button, it looks just right with no tie and the sleeves rolled up. Paired with trim khakis and loafers, the whole look strikes a nice Michael Bastian-ish tone.The fact that I had to perform emergency surgery on my (formerly) dressy summer khakis, while wearing my repurposed “dressy casual dress shirt” seemed somehow appropriate and led me to think about the act of choosing to repurpose good clothes that are just exactly no longer usable.I say “just exactly” because these are the pieces you still like but are no longer right for regular wear because of an ancillary issue (too short sleeves, too high hems or a too tight collar) and not a primary defect (waist too tight/loose, too narrow leg, major staining or irreparable tear).As long as it’s otherwise comfortably wearable, you can probably save the item, either through one of my incredibly clever methods described above or through another equally creative approach provided by your tailor.So, before your toss formerly beloved garments from your wardrobe, take a second look at that shirt, or those pants. If you can repurpose them, then by all means give it a shot. But if they’ve reached the end of the road, pull the trigger and make a donation so that someone else can benefit from your good taste.
Maximilian Sinsteden is going places. The 21-year-old college student isn't just a budding interior designer and bon vivant.
Nope, he's already opened his own firm and recently completed his first commission; a 78-foot motor yacht.Max has already worked for classical designer David Easton and design powerhouse Charlotte Moss. This kid is already on his way to huge; what did you do during your college summers?As Moss noted in this New York Magazine article, Max has a gift. He also has style and has no qualms about letting you know what he likes.While at Choate Rosemary Hall, he was names "Preppiest in the Class". That about says it all, but when you see how he assembles a space and gives it a kind of deep, personal character; that's when you know you are seeing something rare.
Max relaxing at school
What really makes Max stand out though, apart from his great sense of style, form and balance, are his drive and personal vision. The pictures here are of his dorm room. Let me repeat that: his dorm room.Read more about Max, and his dorm room, HERE. And learn a little something about taking chances and letting your own sense of style be your guild.
In honor of Earth Day, I decided to revisit one of my favorite columns on the green aspects of classic style. Now more than ever, it’s important to think about the effects, small and large, that we have on the environment and on our rather tiny planet.
Classic style – however you choose to characterize it – has the singular benefit of longevity. While nothing is always in style, the whole point of preppy, Ivy League, classic or trad dress is to hold on to things until they fall apart. Then you fix ‘em up and wear them for another 20 years. It’s part of the appeal.
I applaud brands like Zara, H&M and Topman for making suits, blazers, ties and dress shirts not only cool, but wardrobe staples for young men with a growing and increasingly sophisticated sense of personal style. But I am genuinely concerned about the disposable nature of such of-the-moment clothing. The fast fashion explosion has also created a fast disposal culture. There is a cost to everything, financial and environmental.
So, as we close out this year’s Earth Week, let’s also think about simple and, yes, small ways to make changes in our own sartorial lives. Save up a little more and get some J. Press oxfords or Allen Edmonds shoes. Both will last you years if not decades and look better as they age. Think about buying one custom suit instead three cheap ones. You don’t have to spend $5,000; VM Clothiers in Washington, D.C. can make you an excellent suit for around $600.
We are all in different financial brackets and different stages of life, but each in our own way can make a few conscious changes to make our own footprint a little smaller.
A few years ago, the employees at Eni, Italy’s largest power company, agreed to shed their ties and cut back on air conditioning in an effort to help fight global warming.
The company’s offices in Rome and Milan began a tentative experiment in what it called, “lighter and cooler office attire.” Though by all accounts it was a success, employees made it very clear that they expected to return to proper clothing as the weather cooled into autumn.
Italians voluntarily ditching their ties is a pretty big deal. Those fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for an entire summer? Luckily, the loss of a mere tie did not send workplace standards into a sartorial tailspin as it has in too many offices across America. Tie or no tie, Italians do have their standards.
This experiment, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, presents an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. In fact, it is a great teaching moment: focusing on style actually helps the environment – as it should. Because of the inherent attention many Italian men take in their wardrobe, a necktie complements their wardrobe and the loss of it as an option, though brief, does not impact the ability to look sharp.
Put simply, when you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is also well thought out. When you consciously consider what to buy and carefully edit your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that will just wind up in a landfill by the end of the year.
Everyday clothing is now relatively cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of sourcing, manufacturing, packaging, transporting, storing, selling, and eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.
As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage space, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.
Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are all factors you should consider when making any purchase.
Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that you will just throw out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While more expensive than off-the-rack, a well made custom suit will last for years. A classic cut can transcend fashion and a good tailor can make adjustments as your dimensions change over time.
By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste. Which brings me back to the Italians; I have no fear of track pants and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milano boardrooms. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe for any weather, it is an Italian.
In this weekend's edition of the Wall Street Journal, I read a great piece about Norman Rockwell's famous painting, "Freedom of Speech".
