Going Custom - Part 3

It's been a while since my last installment on the journey of my custom suit from VM Clothiers.

While it took longer than I had planned to wrap up this three-part review, rest assured that the extra time I've devoted to putting the suit through its paces has only reinforced my total satisfaction with the endeavor.

It's a great suit and I will be calling on Vishal again soon. Overall, it is very well constructed and, most importantly, fits me just right. The details are well thought out and in the right places and the design is classic yet modern enough to feel fresh.

I didn't make too many changes to the silhouette except to shorten the jacket's skirt an inch and narrow the lapels a touch.

This suit has traveled across the country stuffed into coach, sat through too many meetings to remember and given several presentations. In doing so, I can honestly say that it has passed with flying colors and actually received a fair amount of compliments.


The final product

For the price, I think that's a darn good deal. To be fair, is it the equivalent of a suit you would get from Henry Poole, Eric Finn or Georges de Paris? Probably not. Some of the interior finishing and detail work is not exact and I did not have several fittings and consultations with the actual tailors constructing the suit.

However, in this case I was not expecting the same level of extravagant detail which I would had this suit cost $2,500. For the amount VM Clothiers charges though (in the general range of $500-$600), you get a damn good suit.

Frankly, the kinds comments I regularly receive lead me to believe that no one thinks otherwise and that is just fine by me.

There are a number of details to this suit that stand out.

1. Here, you can see the unique fold-over collar detail. There is no felt backing the collar and none is needed. It is a very nicely constructed collar and lapel.



2. The trousers are cuffed and the standard addition of an extra piece of fabric helps to reduce wear that is caused by the heels of your shoes is another example of thought and detail.



3. While there is a coin slot in the right, front-hand pocket, I love the addition of the watch pocket. It is built into the top of the waistband, so even when wearing a belt, unfettered access to change, or even a pocket watch, is assured.



4. The trousers also have a standard ridged trim on both the right- and left-hand sides of the waistband to reduce the tendency of one's shirt to ride up. It is very soft and not even noticeable, but still a welcome and practical addition.



5. Here, you can see the hacking cut of the pockets, something new for me on a suit. I really like this look as it gives a personal twist to a traditional garment. I also elected to add a ticket pocket, an English touch I've always liked.



6. I also chose surgeon's cuffs. While a an added expense, though nominal in this case, I am adamant that for a custom suit, working sleeve buttons is a requirement. It's one of those thing things that makes custom so very custom.

Review: The Luminox Colormark - Functionally Classic

I have reviewed and written on several high end wrist watch brands over the years; usually in the context of how they fit into a classic but updated sense of style. Watches are a very important component of one’s wardrobe – they are one of our most personal and telling accoutrements.

Though most of the attention gets focused on luxury and “investment” brands, there are more than enough guys out there who simply need a good, hardworking and distinctive watch. A number of readers have contacted me recently and asked that I track down a durable everyday watch that would fit into a less formal atmosphere.

I promptly started looked around for a functionally stylish watch that telegraphs personality but doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. I decided to focus on the broad category sports watches. These are the kinds of timepieces that you can take from the pool to the barbeque to the office (on a casual summer’s day at least).

So, in a world filled with chunky Casio G-Shocks and Timex Ironmen, what stands out as unique and durable?

In a word: Luminox.

Apart from building a relatively inexpensive yet tough watch, Luminox still provides its customers with something special: legitimate uniqueness. Its breakout model, the original Navy SEAL composite watch, gave the brand a certain cache in the sports watch world. Designed in close collaboration with active Navy SEALs, its functional yet cool design and landmark illumination technology captured the imagination of many armchair “operators”.



The latest evolution of this watch is the EVO Colormark 3051, and I’ve been testing it out for a few weeks now. While there may be some grumbling out there that none of these watches are particularly classic or preppy, I beg to differ a little bit.

One of the hallmark traits of American prep is its adoption of functionality as style. Timelessly practical tools and equipment that transcend their original purpose are cherished and repurposed. And while I readily agree that the overwrought cases and digital nature of the Casio and Timex watches are dissuasive, by comparison Luminox’s purpose built analog face is classic and functional in an attractively military way. I think it’s a perfect, albeit modern, fit.



By no means am I suggesting that you ditch your vintage Omega Seamaster Deville on a striped grosgrain strap. But, if you are engaged in a day of racing 420s on Long Island Sound or working in the yard, you just might want to opt for function over form.

Though I’ve been a fan of Luminox’s distinctive style and illumination technology, this would be a true out-of-the-box test. I’ve never owned one of their watches, let alone worn one.

Special thanks to Lumondi, Luminox’s distributor in the United States, and Princeton Watch for assistance with the review unit.

The first thing that caught my attention about the Colormark was its weight, or lack thereof. For its large 44mm size, the watch is light as a feather. It’s also very comfortable on the wrist, so much so that I often forgot it have it on. In fact, I have the watch on right now and barely notice it.



The soft neoprene strap is 20mm snout to tail, which nicely balances the visual bulk of the watch itself. The stainless buckle is double pronged which adds literal stability to the closure and aesthetic stability to the strap. The discreet date window sits at the three o’clock position and 24-hour markers ring the interior of the dial. A large and easy to grasp 60-minute timing bezel tops the case.

Turn off the lights and instantly the hands and hour markers are crisply visible as is the timing bezel’s mark. Without getting all technical, there are watch-specific sites for that sort of thing, Luminox’s proprietary lighting technology basically means the lums are always on full power. Pretty amazing stuff, and quite handy at night.



Without question this is a casual watch that does not mix well with any manner of formal clothing, nor is it meant to. The design and scale are clearly purpose-built and as noted above are so obviously functional as to be quite attractive.

Overall, this is a great option that meets your need for an everyday knock-around sports watch. It’s tough and durable, reasonably neutral in a “Navy SEALs wear these too” kind of way.

It’s also a pretty distinctive watch; I haven’t really noticed anyone else wearing one.