As retailers pull out all the stops to get a share of our dwindling holiday funds, I have come across a variety of interesting marketing approaches.
One of the more notable vehicles is the social action campaign at Rugby. Their goal is to tap into the community service idealism of the Rugby target demographic and build a social movement around some unique Rugby products. Commercial? Blatant capitalism? Fashion giant pandering to the pseudo-social consciousness of spoiled kids? Perhaps, but it's also a well organized effort for a very good cause.
Just so there is no confusion, Rugby did not ask me to write this, I just find the strategy refreshing and heartfelt. Ralph Lauren and his companies have a long tradition of supporting health care, social and environmental causes.
This new effort marks the first time that Lauren has used design-collaboration to develop a product line. The current ad campaign highlights the first three items developed for the campaign and their co-creators.
50% of the purchase price of the special edition Match Rugby shirt (above) will go the company's new Match Rugby Fund to support young social entrepreneurs.
Toms Shoes for Rugby
Rugby has teamed with Blake Mycoskie of Toms Shoes to create a special edition of Rugby patterned shoes. For each pair purchased, a pair of shoes will be donated to a needy child. FEED Foundation Bag for Rugby
They have also joined forces with Lauren Bush, founder of FEED Foundation (and longtime girlfriend of David Lauren) to design a collection of limited edition burlap Rugby inspired bags. Proceeds from the bags will go directly to the FEED Foundation.
Both designers expanded on hallmarks of the brand for their pieces: “Rugby does ‘create your own’ elements in their rugby shirts, so we took that idea and decided to make four extra FEED country patches to be sold separately,” explained Bush.
When it comes to summer dressing, most men like the idea of adding a little shot of color to their ensemble but are often fearful of overdoing it. When does a little become too much? How can I show some personality without looking like a caricature?
Thinking this over, I am reminded of a fellow I once saw on the street on a steamy summer day. He was wearing the loudest pants I’d ever seen. They looked remarkably like sofa cushions from a 1950s Florida vacation house; bright orange with giant palm fronds and parrots printed all over them. These pants actually hurt my eyes. But the guy wearing them looked cool as a cucumber; relaxed and suave in sockless loafers and a crisp white oxford.
Though most of us would run the other way when presented with such an outfit, it worked on this gentleman because it fit his particular personality. He was at home in that overwhelming cacophony of color and pattern. For the rest of us, spicing up the warm weather wardrobe will likely include less extravagant exercises in color. Dressing for fun and sun is easier on the weekends, but when it comes to the work week, most everyone still need to dress professionally – or at least wear long pants. But there is still room for personal style in manageable increments.
As a general rule, please do not make the mistake of thinking that dressing for summer weather means wearing togs better suited to the beach or a weekend cookout. Office style, whether formal or "business casual" still says a lot about you and your values. so always assume that someone important will need to see you during the day and dress accordingly.
How then do you “responsibly” add that bit of personal color? A favorite option of mine is to use accessories as a way to tone down the formality of office attire while still offering the world a little flash of your style.
Smart Turnout Watch Straps (left)
Ribbon watch straps a great option, especially for the summer. You’ll be amazed at how a preppy grosgrain or NATO strap can change the whole feel of your favorite wrist watch and by extension soften your overall look and feel. Additionally, these straps give your timepiece a breezy, vintage feel which is popular right now. People will think that your dad wore it back when he was studying archeology at Yale - don't bother to correct them.
English company Smart Turnout makes some of the best ribbon straps I've ever worn. With striped representing British military units to England’s venerable colleges – even a few American Ivy’s – you can find something that fits your personal style. They are easy to swap around, so keep a drawer full and match your watch your watch to your mood. If needed, invest in the little tool that allows you to remove the pins which hold most watch bands in place – it makes life easier.
Tucker Blair Lobster Belt
Belts are another simple way to add color to your look while falling well within the bounds of great practical style. Tucker Blair needlepoint belts are a unique and thoroughly preppy way to add some fun and color to your summer wardrobe. Though a new company, Tucker Blair’s signature needlepoint belts are a timeless classic in a seaside-y sort of way. Each one is a little work of art and an instant heirloom. They truly are unique and speak to both New England clambakes and Low Country boils.
Ralph Lauren Ribbon Belt
Ribbon belts are a popular and less expensive way to give your style a little seaside punch. Companies like Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, J. Press, and Gap offer stripes, critters, solids and plaid versions that make choosing one an easy exercise in personal messaging.
Cape Madras Pants & Shirt
Another summer staple of the past that’s getting a new shot of life is patchwork madras. In the States at least, it seemed like back in the day everyone’s father had one of these shirts. Each year it was debuted at the family Memorial Day picnic and was kept busy all summer long. With every washing the cloth got a little softer and a little more faded – the sign of true madras. It never stopped bleeding, getting mellower year by year. Cape Madras, founded in 2004, has resurrected the real thing and built a unique company that is both dyed in the wool American and dyed in Madras, Indian. While the Cape Madras collection is designed by the creative team in the US, the company weaves all its own fabric designs in rural villages in India. A modern global partner, albeit a small one, the company is dedicated to providing it's Indian workers with good, creative and long-term jobs.
Also modern is its design approach. Unlike the traditional muted colors one associated with madras, Cape Madras uses colors not usually seen in traditional madras like bright pinks, greens and oranges. With offerings of shirts, shorts, jackets, pants, you can find that classic summery look for any occasion.
To add an extra layer of individuality, choose a signature, something that people will associate with you alone. A relative of mine wears round tortoise shell glasses. Since I can remember, he has always worn them and by now anything else just wouldn’t look right. He is particularly Ivy League in his style of dress, so the glasses give him a living Ralph Lauren ad persona. It’s just right on him. So, what’s your summer signature of personal style?
No the clearest of pictures, but this guy is always on the move. I couldn't get him to stand still long enough for a clear shot. KR is a honest-to-goodness DC lobbyist and a darn good one at that. He's also a very snappy dresser.
A South Carolina native, he passes up the standard suit and tie when he can. Here he is sporting a pair of beat up J. Crew "Nantucket Reds" (I know, not the real ones from Murray's Toggery), white oxford and just out of view some nice Allen Edmunds loafers.
He always points out that the pants were a good deal at the J.Crew outlet. One of the great things about KR is that he he has his own sense of style and anyone who doesn't like it can just go to hell. In fact, he has some of the best GTH pants I've seen. I would call his look Southern preppy/urbane casual. Even when he's totally dressed down, there is a certain coolness to the ensemble.
Some of you might remember KR from the Black Tie and Boots Ball at President Obama's inauguration. I always tell him that he has the kind of style that will get him on the web, so be on the lookout for future shots.
Not all economic news is negative. Yesterday, Ralph Lauren Corp., announced first quarter results that indicates the company is exactly where it wants to be. Amid the credit crunch and housing slump luxury companies appear to be doing just fine and Polo is leading the pack.
Shares of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., jumped 7.1 percent Wednesday after the company posted a 7.8 percent first-quarter profit increase and raised its full-year earnings guidance.
According to a DNR article, for the three months ended June 28, net income rose 7.8 percent to $95.2 million, or 93 cents a diluted share, beating the consensus estimate of 72 cents from Yahoo Finance. That compares with $88.3 million, or 82 cents, in the year-ago quarter. The company said the growth was from a higher gross margin rate and a lower tax rate. Total revenues were up 4 percent to $1.11 billion from $1.07 billion. Despite essentially flat wholesale revenues of $574.5 million, versus $574 million, retail sales ballooned 9.4 percent to $492.4 million from $450 million. Same-store sales rose 3.9 percent, with Ralph Lauren stores climbing 5.3 percent, factory stores rising 3.3 percent and Club Monaco stores gaining 2.9 percent. RalphLauren.com sales jumped 20 percent.
I have been talking about men's wear taking the lead in recent posts, and here is the data to back it up: the company said that men’s wear outperformed women’s in the quarter. Shares of Polo gained $4.36 to close at $65.86 in trading Wednesday on the Big Board.
I'm going to post the rest of the original DNR article from this point on. It's a great piece and gives a fascinating view of a global luxury giant mapping out it's strategies and planning for the future. Heads' up, it's a long article.
On a conference call with analysts, Roger Farah, president and COO, said, “Our first quarter reflects the successful benefits of our long-term strategic initiatives — primarily our commitment to new merchandise development and product innovation, our ongoing attempts to expand our direct-to-consumer, and our growing international presence. This multipronged strategy is designed to diversify our businesses, reduce our exposure to any one region of the world or channel of distribution and to give us more direct control over our brands.”
The company’s results over the last few quarter reflect that it is still operating and executing at a very high level, Farah said. “Our inventories are very well managed as they are below last year and at the same time, our retail sell-through rates have been strong and our profit margins have benefited as a result,” he said. “Our cash flows have grown with more direct control we now have over our businesses, and we have made the right decisions in order to deliver a very strong balance sheet which large growing cash balances and very little debt. Our entire management team has supported and delivered on these key short-term operating priorities. Because of this cross-functional discipline, we are comfortable pursuing our long-term initiatives.”
In his comments, Ralph Lauren, chairman and CEO, said worldwide acceptance of Polo’s brands has been “supported by our continued investment in advertising, marketing and public relations, including high-profile events such as Wimbledon and the Olympics. Our status as one of the world’s few truly global luxury lifestyle brands is an incredible asset for our company.”
In a telephone interview, Farah boasted that, with strong internal support, the company was in a good financial position to take advantage of unique opportunities.
“It’s amazing, the cash flows that we now generate,” he told DNR. “It’s amazing the way we manage our inventories. And with our low debt, we’re in a position opportunistically to do what we want to do. We don’t have to go looking for either financing or approval from someone. We have been conscientious in operating [the firm] in a disciplined way, and that gives us leverage to do whatever is the right thing to do.”
That means international expansion efforts in Europe and Asia, particularly growth in the Middle East and in Eastern Europe, and taking direct control over certain businesses, such as the children’s wear and golf apparel businesses in Japan from its former licensee Naigai Co. Ltd., which continues to hold the license for Polo-branded hosiery sales in Japan. The latest deal gives Polo direct control over product categories that account for 75 percent of its wholesale volume in Japan. So far the company has closed doors in Europe that it believes no longer represent the brand’s positioning, but is increasing the volume in places where it can give the brand better quality in representation. Even with fewer points of distribution, the European business has grown to over $1 billion from $180 million when Polo bought the final components of it in 2001.
Farah noted that productivity in Europe is 50 percent greater than in the U.S. It generates about $1,000 a square foot in the U.S. and $1,500 a square foot in Europe, a reflection of differences in real estate.
“Europe has a very concentrated, city-driven retail experience. It doesn’t have the mall suburban standalone environment that we have in the states,” he explained.
Currently on the agenda is the building of a store across from the Rhinelander mansion store at 72nd Street and Madison Avenue in New York. The new site will house three floors of its women’s apparel and accessories lines and one floor will be dedicated to home. The mansion will be dedicated only to men’s wear.
Similarly, in Paris, the company will open a women’s only store in late September, featuring three floors of products and accessories. Farah said next year the company will open another store in Paris that will feature a full complement of men’s and women’s offerings, as well as a restaurant, on the Left Bank.
The company will launch sportswear from its Lauren line in 100 doors in Western Europe in spring 2009, followed by footwear, accessories and dresses in future seasons.
“We eventually want to get [Lauren] into Asia and Eastern Europe, but with much of the territories under license, it is hard to put a business such as Lauren into a licensed business,” Farah observed. “In Japan, where we have 75 percent direct control, it will come to Japan much sooner [when] we can properly position the brand and get the real estate to present the brand in the appropriate way.”
The company is also in discussions with key retail partners regarding a replenishment program. According to Farah, the initiative will benefit both the retailer and Polo.
“There are some items that are worthy of replenishment and some you want to sell out. The retailer can benefit if it is run right. There’s a lot of information about size scale, and one can learn from customers what size they’ll need, which can help in our novelty and fancy deliveries. From the information, we can adjust size scale in different regions.”
Jennifer Black, analyst at Jennifer Black & Associates, said the quarterly results “demonstrate to us that this company both increasingly segments its merchandise offering successfully into an array of consumer groups and successfully taps new markets one by one....As it moves along the curve of buying back franchises that gave it an initial cost-effective means to grow its business, the company increasingly gains power over its ability to control its brand image and merchandise offering. Through likely continued turbulent economic waters, Polo Ralph Lauren is one that over time should continue to create shareholder value.”
She added that the firm’s sizeable wholesale and retail business both in the U.S. and overseas “enables this company to penetrate segments where demand is growing and pull back where demand is leaner.”
In the process of doing a little background to answer a question on my recent J. Press column, I came across this great Time Magazine article from last year. The question was whether Brooks Brothers gets more street cred than J. Press on the Trad front because it is an older company.
My response was no, not particularly. J. Press is very much a traditional preppy mecca and always has been. Brooks Brothers is more of a classic clothier that, until being acquired by Claudio Del Vecchio, spend several years wandering in the stylistic wilderness.
As that Time article points out, Brooks has unquestioningly regained its sartorial mantle and to me is very much on the forefront of elegant fashion. Drawing from its incredibly extensive corporate achieves, Brooks has refashioned itself into a true clothier that blends the best of its past with the creative foresight needed to remain relevant today and in the future.
The timeless JFK suit model
If you are in D.C. any time soon, stop by the Connecticut Avenue Brooks Brothers flagship store - just down the block from the storied Mayflower Hotel - and look up Mr. Alex Brown. He is the very definition of a true Brooks Brothers salesman. He is a gentleman, professional clothing guide and a bit of a historian who has been through the company's ups and downs. That Mr. Brown is happy with the way things are going at Brooks means far more to me than what industry analysts have to say.
So from my perspective there is no real head-to-head competition between the two when it comes to Trad values; rather one compliments the strengths of the other. To whit, while I love my J. Press blazer, Brooks Brothers is the master of the pink oxford cloth button down (in fact, I'm wearing one right now). That's just the way it is.
This is a true story: Back when he was running for president in 1980, George H. W. Bush (that’s George senior) was giving a speech at his alma mater, Yale University, and being heckled by some students. Someone yelled out that Bush was just another out of touch “Brooks Brothers Republican.” The president, apparently offended by that particular remark, promptly opened his suit coat to reveal its J. Press label.
I’ve always liked that story because it shows the deep dedication that some cultures naturally create. J. Press has that kind of culture. It is the quintessential New England prep-Yale Man-old money-Ivy League brand that the J. Crews and Ralph Laurens of the world want you to think they are. Not that there is anything wrong with either of those brands, I’m a fan of both. But J. Press is special because that’s where it all started. It’s the real deal.
New Haven Store at Christmas
Though not as well known commercially as Brooks Brothers – there are four brick and mortar J. Press stores to Brooks’ nearly 200 – J. Press is as classically preppy as you can get. In fact it quite literally invented the look. From the 1930s through the’50s, Press helped to cement the image of American preppy in the minds of college students everywhere. Known as the “Yale” or “Ivy League” look, it came to define the stylish New England intellectual or at least moneyed, layer of society that was the ruling class of the time. A hybrid of English prep school uniform and traditional American wear, the preppy look is timeless.
Jacobi Press in his New Haven Store
Founded in 1902 by Jacobi Press, in my hometown of New Haven, Connecticut, his namesake company has always adhered to a traditional some would say conservative, design philosophy. Much of their clothing is still American made and most of the shirts, ties, jackets and trousers are quite indistinguishable from from your father's wardrobe. Mr. Press would probably feel right at home were he to walk into one of his stores today. In fact, the New Haven flagship has never moved from its original location.
Sartorial innovations like the sack suit and natural shoulder were invented here. The trademark three-button suit coat with the rolled lapel that visually converts it to a two-button is also a Press innovation. The sack suit itself, given global branding by Jack Kennedy as the definitive American suit, is also credited to J. Press.
Another Press signature is the lack of pleated trousers. All J. Press suits have flat front pants and always have; it’s the kind of consistency and tradition that make the company such an icon among its customers, generation after generation. Where Brooks Brothers’ shirts are famously voluminous, Press shirts are more trim and discreet. Their shirts also have, should you choose the option, a distinctive flapped pocket. that's a little too quirky for me so I stick with the open pocket.
But don’t mistake that tradition and adherence to New England stylistic values for old-fashion stodginess. Though clearly smaller when compared to Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart or even Joseph A. Bank (once colloquially known as the poor man's Brook Brothers), J. Press is a global player and major style influencer on the Trad front. To see just how popular and relevant J. Press is to the fashion world – at least for the true preppy market – you need to go a little ways past New Haven, all the way to Japan.
J. Press is huge in Japan. In 1974, the Press family sold the rights to license J. Press in Japan; becoming in fact the first American brand to be licensed in that country. To many a Japanese professional, the sartorial standard by which business and traditional dress is measured is J. Press. In fact, the company is today a wholly owned subsidiary of its Japanese parent, Onward Kashiyama Co., Ltd. Onward Kashiyama realized almost immediately that to preserve J. Press’ Ivy League cachet, it needed to stay out of the way. And that it has done. Walk into any Press store today and it feels like the company never expanded past the boundaries of Yale, Harvard or the other Ivy's. Sure, the recently opened Madison Avenue store has a fresher, deco feel to it, but you still know it's J. Press.
That is the magic of this unique and cherished brand; it knows what it is, who its customers are and what they value. You cannot simply buy that kind of loyaly or respect through advertising or tarted-up branding. It's earned. J. Press has maintained its preppy core values and remains the truest expression of traditional New England Style. What else would you expect?
I have had several people ask me about where Washingtonians with style go to get away from the "beltway thing" for a few days. Though most people don't know it, Washington is actually blessed with good geography and the interesting unique places that go along with options that range from rolling horse country to seaside waterman towns.
For the land loving horsey set, Middleburg, Virgina, is the place to be. Chock full of high-end antique stores and boutiques carrying life's little necessities, including hacking jackets, Barbour field coats, and handmade paddock boots. This is where you go to see the steeple chases and relax at any number of luxurious bed and breakfasts.
All that said, when I think of a classic Washingtonian weekend getaway, I think of Maryland's Eastern Shore. It's a totally separate place, a world distinct from official Washington. Once you cross over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge, a 4 1/2 mile ribbon of steel, you enter a more relaxed and rural universe.
Though less than two hours away from the nation's capital, the town Easton feels like you have stepped back in time to place where no one really cares what you do or who you know. The stately brick buildings, tree lined streets and elegant homes of the town's center tempt you to drop everything and just stay. Every spring, Easton hosts a plein air art festival that has hundreds of artists setting up their easels across the town. You'd think you were on Martha's Vineyard. There is some great shopping in Easton as well. Stop by the House of Harrison to pick up a pair of Bill's Khakis for the weekend.
Take a turn down Route 33 and you will come to the wonderful town of Saint Michaels, which has been called Washington's Hamptons by the New York Times. This preppy little town, set alongside the Miles River as it wends its way to the Chesapeake Bay, traces its history back to the early 1700s. Notable current residents, at least those with large vacations mansions, include Vice President Dick Cheney and former Defense Secretary Donald Rumsfeld. Talbott Street, its main thoroughfare, is lined with wonderful shops and interesting restaurants, including the award winning Saint Michaels Winery.
At the edge of town is the Inn At Perry Cabin. This Orient Express owned hotel is exceptionally luxurious in a very laid back fashion, but you'll still want to get a shoe shine before you show up. Back up the street in the center of town is the Five Gables Inn and Spa, itself a renowned destination. Next April, the growing Saint Michaels Food and Wine Festival will again attract chefs and foodies from around the world. Make sure to put this event on your social calendar.
Think you might want to stick around? If you're looking to match your wardrobe to your newly discovered life, stop by Sailor and pick up some new Vineyard Vines duds, or head over to Keepers Orvis to stock up for your private fly casting lesson. Need to outfit the new vacation house in an appropriate old money-cum-seaside cottage look? Coco & Company has been featured in Vogue magazine and even helped furnish an HGTV dream home. That's pretty Hampton-y.
According to DNR, Rugby is getting ready to unveil its new e-commerce site. Considered in many ways the future of Polo Ralph Lauren, the company is carefully nurturing the brand's growth and expansion.
The next step for the younger-skewed and lower-priced line, which is sold in 12 company-owned stores around the U.S. (including D.C.'s Georgetown location), is an e-commerce site which will also include style tips, unique videos and blog-based content.
Off The Cuff DC is proud to have already been cited on the Rugby blog, and I look forward to reviewing the revamped site.
The e-commerce site has been in development for around a year, and the updated Rugby.com is scheduled to relaunch on August 12.
“The site is fantastic and truly beautiful,” said David Lauren, senior vice-president of advertising, marketing and corporate communications. Additionally, it is user-friendly and “will break ground,” he predicted. “This is not just technological bells and whistles. It comes up quickly and is easy to navigate for anyone who wants to use it.”
Here at Off The Cuff, we are always happy to promote a great brand that most people have never heard about. With that, please meet Dunning Sportswear.
Apparently designer Ralph Dunning is a fan of OTC. A Toronto native and lifelong athlete, Ralph Dunning draws inspiration from his passions for sport, music, fashion and modern city and surf cultures. An IRONMAN competitor, marathoner and endurance cyclist, Dunning first entered the clothing market in the 1990s with his Rip n’ Hammer line of premium technical clothing for triathletes and cyclists.
Dunning has also designed apparel collections for some of the world’s leading sports brands, including Saucony, GT Cycles and Cervelo. So when he decided to develop a clothing line for everyday casual wear, he opted to go for a straightforward classic look.
But this preppy inspired brand is built for function. Rendered in a proprietary cotton/Coolmax blend, his clothes are both comfortable and quite sharp. Dunning Sportswear contacted OTC because they felt that our readers would appreciate an unbiased review of this “cool” brand.
Dunning’s clothes may look a bit like what you already wear, but the construction and overall brand quality are some of the best I’ve come across in a long time. But what really makes the shirts and shorts I tested stand out from the crowd is the Coolmax blended cotton fabrics.
If I did not know they were made from performance material, I never would have even guessed it. The fabric’s wicking quality kept me cool and comfortable on some darn hot and humid days.
The flat front khaki shorts are now my favorite, be it sweating in the garden or heading off to the store to pick up the latest issue of Monocle.In fact, I’m wearing them right now. After nearly a month of continuous use and abuse they look great and have stood up to all manner of maltreatment.
The gingham sport shirts are winners too. Also cotton/Coolmax blends, these “Performance Woven” button down shirts were designed in classic patterns and an array of traditional preppy colors. Actually, they are the perfect casual dress shirts for me because of the well tailored cut and light, wrinkle-free, moisture-wicking fabric.
Their classically styled polo shirts are well built and have a nice dressy feel that can easily handle the tennis court or a day out sailing.
Overall, Dunning Sportswear is a great brand that blends a classic New England functionality with hi-tech athletic materials. And you’d never know - which is what I like the best.
So what’s the problem? It’s still kind of hard to come by. Sold through country club pro shops and a limited number of retailers, the web is still your best shot. Visit Dunning's online store to learn more.
As we discussed in part one, the New York menswear market is in the midst of renaissance of sorts. But it's not just luxury brands that are focusing more on the men in their lives; mid market brands are making a statement in the Big Apple too.
J.Crew, a favorite everyday brand of Off The Cuff, is setting up a men's only shop in the landmark Liquor Store building, at 235 West Broadway at White Street in Tribeca. The men's store, which will be smaller than a typical J. Crew store, will carry the best of J. Crew's men's collection, including their unique collector's items - upscale, limited-edition pieces like the $800 leather mail bag. According to CEO Micky Drexler, the store is "a very short-term lease," with "very little investment and risk," which will allow the company "to fool around and play with a men's store."
Additionally, the company has been sending out mini-catalogs that focus only on their men’s clothing and accessories lines. These targeted marketing efforts have been very well received and gives J. Crew the ability to sell its higher end wares directly to their male customers.
This emerging but strong trend toward menswear will likely spread across the retail market. As I have noted before, men are not like women when it comes to shopping, but there has been a distinct shift back toward guys appreciating and seeking out quality clothing and accessories.
Though this is most true for "investment" level clothes like suits and other tailored pieces, J. Crew's men's store concept is an example of transferring the investment mentality to everyday dressing. It’s sort of a reverse approach to the commoditization trend that has effectively devalued many once exclusive brands. Instead of making their wares more accessible to average consumers, companies like J. Crew are developing limited edition products at very outsized price points and targeted at discerning shoppers.
The company is also taking marketing cues from luxury brands that have long touted things like the prestigious family mills which supply their fabric. J. Crew is busily developing relationships with companies like Baird McNutt, an innovative, family-owned Irish mill in Ballymena known for incredible linens.
What makes this type of strategy successful is that they’re not faking it. J. Crew is seeking out real manufacturers who make really good, exclusive products. It's authentic and fits very well with their customer base. The real stories and premium price tags are providing the boost that the company wants in menswear. They have also made serious efforts to improve the construction quality of their products, and adding additional practical value to their wares.
“Women’s got turned around, and now it’s time for men’s,” says Todd Snyder, senior vice-president of men’s design for J. Crew. And one way to sell the ongoing J. Crew story of original lifestyle brands is through collaborations with designer-frequented mills. “We say, why spend $1,000 at Bergdorf Goodman for a jacket you can get for $300 here? It’s the same thing.” Customers are recognizing quality fabrics, so Snyder has made it his mission to work with the best in the business. “We’re becoming the biggest customer of mills like Moon and Mallalieus, who work with Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Ralph Lauren,” he says. “We’re after quality.”
This movement to get men in better sartorial shape isn’t limited to the selling floor. In July, the MTV network is premiering it’s version of a male finishing school. Dubbed, “From G’s to Gents”, this reality-format show to be aired on Fox, is being produced by Hollywood heavyweight Jamie Foxx and hosted by uber-gent Fonzsworth Bentley.
The idea is to try and mold 14 players/tough guys from the street into modern day gentlemen; sort of a realty version of My Fair Lady complete with cash prize and a smart new wardrobe. While as a general rule I despise these types of shows, I find this one curiously interesting. If nothing else, it’s getting on the air speaks to a real societal desire for men to be gentlemen again. I have no illusions about top hats and walking sticks, but for an Academy Award winner like Foxx, a pretty sharp gent in his own right, to see the value in this show makes me want to check it out.
By moving the topic and marketing approach of high-end menswear and gentlemanly etiquette to the everyday guy-cum-MTV generation, the message that dressing well and having some class will reach a heretofore untapped market.
It’s a stylistic approach to vertical integration; to try and capture all socioeconomic levels of the men’s lifestyle market – from Gap to Hermes. That’s the holy grail of any retailer or ad executive, but it seems that our culture may now be at this mythical point. We’ll have to wait and see if the trend truly takes hold, but it appears that while doing so more men will be better dressed and know which fork to use.
This morning's Wall Street Journal says it all: "Plaid Taste: The Return of Preppy." As if we weren't already aware of it, Preppy, the most exuberant expression of classic style, is back on the fashion radar in a big way. Washington, D.C., never really lost its affinity for the preppy lifestyle. It fits very well with the power and class aspirations that feed daily life here.
While we have multiple Brooks Brothers and no less than three Ralph Lauren outlets serving the financially flush neighborhoods of Georgetown, Tysons, and Chevy Chase, we also have Sherman Pickey, a literal shrine to the prep ethos. The nation's capital is also home to J. Press, the touchstone of true New England prep. If you ever get over to Saint Michaels on Maryland's Eastern Shore, a very preppy vacation address, check out Sailor on Talbot Street. It is stuffed to the gills with offerings from Vineyard Vines to Lilly Pulitzer.
In its most traditional form, preppy style actually toned down the greens, pinks and reds to a respectable old-money, sun washed, had-this-polo-forever feel. The idea was always to celebrate the seaside, wind in your hair summer lifestyle, but to do so in an understated way. Today's preppy is more or less the opposite. It's big, it's bright, and can cover every part of your body. From Nantucket Reds canvas pants and whale belts to ribbon watch bands and monogrammed multicolor boat bags, some people literally overdose on the look.
When it comes to dressing in an authentically preppy manner,more may be better but too much is just plain tacky. It's the difference between someone wondering if you actually have a beach house and just laughing at you. Have fun with preppy style but don't try and do it all at once. By all means, use the Preppy Handbook as a tongue-and-cheek guide, but don't mistake it for a textbook.
Looking for a role model? Try Jack Kennedy, someone who had a naturally preppy look. Yes, he grew up with a monogrammed silver service in his mouth, but he also embodied an approachable preppiness. While JFK always looked fresh off the yacht, nothing ever looked too contrived or overdone.
Build on that understated style by adding shots of color or pattern. Like a ribbon belt that picks up the colors in your shirt or tie. Lose the socks when wearing loafers or docksiders. For classy casual look, pair well worn khakis with a blue blazer and un-ironed oxford. Dress it up for dinner at the club by switching to a tailored dress shirt with french cuffs and signal flag cuff links. Pick one or two elements to highlight: the repp tie in your school colors on a checked shirt, the pants liberally covered with golden retrievers, or a Kelly green watch band. Just check yourself in the mirror before walking out the door and make sure you don't look like a mannequin.
To all my fellow American readers, I want to wish you a happy Fourth of July! With over 10,000 readers we have come along way and I want to thank all of you for making Off The Cuff a small part of your life.
So throw on your favorite pair of Nantucket Reds, worn out polo shirt and docksiders. Put some good beer on ice, fire up the grill and gather your friends and family around for a long day of relaxing. And as the evening rolls in, get ready for the fireworks. Enjoy.
I noticed on Polo's Rugby blog that there was a post about the vintage watches being offered at the company's East Hampton store. Though not the focus of the original post - a shot of some vintage sunglasses in a display case - questions rolled in about the great watches displayed on ribbon bands alongside the sunglasses.
That's a great example of the emotional power of watches, vintage mechanical ones in particular. I have a few vintage watches, some are family heirlooms and some were purchased. Each one is special and satisfies a particular aspect of my personality. Even the modern watches that I own are almost all mechanical - manual wind or automatic - and tend to be unique rather than flashy.
While traditional leather straps ans steel bracelets are just fine, certainly when they are original to the timepiece, a classic preppy ribbon strap can add flair and Ivy League panache to your wrist. British brand Smart Turnout makes a great version that's based on the rugged NATO strap design. They come in a range of colors representing English military units and several American Ivy League colleges.
Smart Turnout Watch Bands
When it comes to vintage watches, you can head off to East Hampton, N.Y., and visit the Rugby store or you can track down dealers closer to home. Believe it or not, you can also hit the web in search of sites with good deals and equally important, a good inventory. The great thing about vintage watches is that when you finally find what you're looking for it is a very personal score.
Here are several websites that I like keep an eye on to see whats coming onto the market. I cannot offer you any guarantees or standards, but the companies below already have excellent reputations.
If you want to see some exceptional early vintage watches, from say, around 1914, check out Old Wrist Watches.
So take a look around and give it a try; vintage mechanical watches and preppy ribbon straps are great ways to bring some stylish elan to your summer wardrobe.
A few weeks ago, a reader posed what turned out to be a somewhat complicated question; “what do I wear,” he asked, “to a wedding where the dress code is “smart casual”?
In most cases, a wedding is one of those events which is fairly easy to dress for. In the summer, a well tailored poplin or linen suit should fit the bill. Depending on regional preferences, perhaps seersucker or, as was the case for my wedding, white ducks and a blue blazer. For formal events, a morning suit or white dinner jacket is best for daytime and of course a dark colored dinner jacket is always correct for an evening wedding. (For a more sophisticated look, try midnight blue instead of black.)
Personally, I have a rule when inviting others to an event of mine; either I tell my guests in detail what they should wear or I don’t tell them at all. Why, for an occasion as important as a wedding, would the host offer such an ambiguous sartorial instruction as “smart casual” – especially when doing so throws a wrench into an understood social convention? Why do otherwise reasonable people do such frustrating things?
My own theory is that we all want to be creative and different at important moments in our lives. We want to stand out from the pack and be recalled as creative. That’s all well and good, but it only works when everyone is included in the plan.
Several years ago some friend of ours decided to throw a surprise wedding – they wanted to be unconventional, so instead of wedding invitations they sent out invitations to an open house. They had just moved to a lovely mountainside location, so it made sense to those receiving the invitation. The problem was that we live on the other side of the country and flying out for an afternoon open house would have been expensive and difficult, so we declined. This couple was so intent on keeping the true event a surprise that they never let us know what we were really missing – not even a hint. It took a while to get over that one.
My point is that unless everyone is on the same page, you are putting an undue burden on your guests to figure out what’s going on. Had we known the truth, we would have been on the next plane. To a lesser extent, cryptic phrases like “smart casual,” “summer festive” or worse, “beachy fun” leave the wedding guest in terrible a bind. To one person, smart casual may mean shorts and polo shirt while to another it might be an elegant suit, pocket square and no tie. And what the heck is beachy fun – should I wear swim trunks and lip flops?
In this case my reader knew the groom’s personality and that his likely attire would be a suit and tie. When pressed, the groom’s only additional direction was that he and his fiancé wanted people to be “comfortable.” Though intended to be helpful, this additional nugget of information only served to make things more confusing for his friend.
My approach to this unfortunately vague scenario is to go classically simple. A nice sport coat, open collared shirt, pressed trousers and polished shoes will get you through almost any situation. Blue blazers in particular earn their keep and, because of their inherent versatility, can handle dressy or casual scenarios with aplomb.
All in all, when faced with situations such as these it’s best to sit back and take a deep breath. If you are not able to or comfortable with asking your hosts for some specific direction, take the middle route. Try not to over dress, but for goodness sake do not under dress. It's always best to look better than expected rather than worse than everyone else.
Now that summer has officially struck, heat and humidity are returning with a vengeance to many parts of the country. Having just spent a couple of days in Charleston, South Carolina, I was pleasantly reminded that men still have a truly creative sartorial flair in that fantastic little city. This is particularly worth noting because when the warm weather hits, many guys revert to a variation on the polo shirt/khaki model; boring, predictable and safe. That is not always the rule in Charleston, a town that truly prides itself on creative and stylish menswear.
As many of you know, Charleston is the home of Ben Silver, an iconic and long lived menswear store and catalog. A stylish and vibrant place, there are myriad other excellent menswear stores throughout the city as well. Charleston is also ground zero for a uniquely colorful, almost Mediterranean preppy style that softens the classic pinks, greens and reds in sun-washed and weathered hues that blend with the slower and more thoughtful pace of life that the climate dictates.
While based on a generally conservative and traditional model, menswear here evolved to reflect the dictates of comfort and culture. The same stylistic sensibility of its Northeastern brethren is present, but its execution incorporates visually softer and physically lighter materials. Also present are creative touches that only a Southern gentleman could confidently pull off. In one store, I found the Charleston equivalent of Nantucket Reds with the addition of large, vibrant swordfish leaping across the legs. No discreet collection of tiny whales, these guys were visible from a good distance. The trousers were by no means tacky, just designed for someone who has a strong personal style, doesn’t mind standing out and, most importantly, doesn't take himself too seriously.
Recently, I also contributed to a thread over at the BeBetterGuys.com forum about seersucker suits, a staple of the Southern wardrobe and something you see quite often in Charleston. Broadly speaking, seersucker has reemerged on the fashion front this season. J. Crew has done a great job softening its overall look and building casual but classy pieces that can be worn with shorts or chinos. Brooks Brothers, J. Press, and Polo/Ralph Lauren always offer some nice versions. Back in 2003, the Wall Street Journal did a compare/contrast among makers and settled on Haspel as one of the best. Although it’s several years old, the article is still a great read.
Personally, I have a great seersucker suit purchased from Brooks Brothers about 10 years ago. It’s a classic, with blue/white stripes, two-buttons, single vent and cut along traditional lines. I have worn it to numerous weddings and to work. Each time I do some guy invariably looks over and says, "Damn, I wish I had the guts to actually wear that." It’s that kind of a suit.
I think the main thing to remember when wearing seersucker is that a lot of other guys wish they could. It’s intimidating – like the pants with the swordfish – and you have to make the conscious choice to put it on and walk out the door. That’s not a bad thing; your clothing should tell people who you are, it should be noticeable and, on occasion, stand out. And while the classic repp tie, white bucks look is great, don’t be afraid to throw on a pair of Chuck Taylors and a messenger bag instead.
I was recently contacted by a young gentleman in Sweden who asked that I help him with his style of dress.
This 25 year-old man is drawn to a very classic clothing; so much so, that his friends felt he dressed like an old man. “You need to dress for your age,” they said. Black, all black, was the recommendation.
Preferring East Coast Ivy League sensibilities, this sharp fellow contacted Off The Cuff for some advice.
Let me just say up front that my Swedish friend has made some changes to his style and now presents a truer, age-appropriate classic version of himself, as the lead-off image above shows (yes, that's really him).
"You see, I feel like I'm stuck in a rut. I've always tended to dress classically. I'm quite the fan of British clothing and the Ivy League look. But, I also like the boldness (and in many cases perfect simplicity) of the Italian way of dressing. And I almost never wear black."
"My main concern is that lately, especially the last couple of years during the fall; I've become more experimental than ever when it comes to colours and patterns. This has made for a very, shall we say, busy look, from time to time. Also, I've become narrower in my way of dressing. I feel extremely casual even with a dress shirt, chinos and a v-neck or crew neck. Almost like I need a jacket to feel properly dressed. This has generated looks that have made me look very, very old. And not in a good way, I'm afraid."
"Today for instance, I wore khaki coloured chords (which have stretched out to become quite baggy), a white OCBD, an olive v-neck, a brown tweed jacket with suede elbow patches, suede Chelsea boots and a bright orange paisley tie. This outfit combined with my somewhat hefty body made for a really old look."
This is actually a common problem I tend to see in certain Trad/Ivy League aficionados. In their zeal to capture the truest essence of “preppy,” they wind up making caricatures of themselves.
The outfit described above is about as grandfatherly as one can get. While the individual components are quite stylish on their own, together an old, heavy look is created – very much at odds with my reader.
Don’t overdo it in your effort to look classic. Instead of emulating an entire “look,” be yourself and highlight one or two key wardrobe elements like a blazer or a good pair of wingtips. Pair the key piece with something you already have. Try the hi/low approach: wear the good blue blazer with your favorite classic cut jeans, white oxford and those great wingtips.
Updated: Blazer with oxford & jeans
"I also often wear ties and never put a jacket on without stuffing down a pocket square in my pocket. During summer I seem to loosen up a bit by default, moving to lightweight chinos, Bermuda, OCBDs and polos, topsiders and plimsols."
"My female friends are constantly nagging about how I should stop dressing like a 65 year old. They go on and on about how my way of dressing ruins my 'wild years as a single young guy'. And while my male friends do think I dress very well, bold/cool etc, they also think it can get a little to stuffy and uptight, to the point where they feel a little uncomfortable."
"The general tips I get from my female friends are: embrace black, wear mostly jeans and t-shirts. If you must wear a jacket, wear a black suit jackets and never ever wear a pocket square. And stick to black shoes or sneakers."
"I really don't want to go there, still, I find myself looking at many of my friends in jeans, sneakers and simple shirts, thinking they look great. I just feel too casual and to undressed when putting something similar on."
Personally, I think the issue has a bit more to do with personality than just clothing. He can certainly dress in a classic, East Coast preppy manner but do so in a younger frame of mind. My own take on this philosophy can be found in my "College Professor" column.
In some cases (actually most cases), it is just fine to lose the tie in favor of a pocket square. He could get newer cords or chinos in a trimmer cut that is still comfortable and try trousers with a higher rise and slightly trimmer leg. The same holds true for sweaters, v-neck or crew neck. He can try some more fitted fine-gauge merino sweaters. Not snug, but not baggy.
The merino wool itself is less bulky and will help to give a more modern, less slouchy look. Additionally, this kind of sweater works better in warmer weather when a extra layer is needed.
My reader can also try and create a more coordinated color palate. A tie or pocket square can be used as the shot of color, but it is better let the major wardrobe pieces be the foundation upon which it rests. One can also do this with a brightly colored or patterned jacket. Just make a point to choose one item as your "message" and let everything else step a back a bit and ground it.
An OTC favorite brand, J. Crew (unfortunately not yet available in Sweden) does a great job with this kind of look. Use its examples for inspiration, not necessarily as a literal guide. Their designers do an excellent job updating classic garments for modern style.
Modern & Classic (Sartorialist)
So yes, trust your gut and stick with your own style, but look at yourself with a younger eye. Remember that what we see today as "classic “ preppy and Ivy League dress was, at the time a radical and iconoclastic departure from proper dressing.
The goal for those kids was to take the formal prep school and college uniform and make it their own, to personalize and update it. So interpreting and updating that style for modern life today is really paying it homage.
If you’re in New York on Saturday, May 31, make time for a rare taste of the Hamptons’ high flying lifestyle.
Gotham is playing host to the Veuve Clicquot Manhattan Polo Classic. This is the first time in more than 70 years that polo will be played in New York City.
The venue is historic Governors Island; a 172-acre landmark which is a mere 800 yards from Manhattan in New York Harbor. Admission is free and so are the ferry rides that run every 30 minutes. Now you too can use words like "chukkar" and say you’ve stomped the divots at half-time, and mean it.
Of particular interest to the stylish crowd, Ralph Lauren's team, Blackwatch, will be playing against Asprey’s team. As many women reading this post may know, Blackwatch is lead by Nacho Figueras, the face of Polo Black. Nacho also happens to be the world’s top polo player.
Should you find yourself a little parched, feel free to visit the field-side Veuve Clicquot champagne bar. Picnics are encouraged and the match is scheduled to begin at 3:00 p.m. Pull out your Ralph Lauren lawn party attire and make a day of the Sport of Kings.
In addition to the polo match, May 31 will also mark the official opening of Governors Island for the summer season. Visitors can bike around the island and take tours of the National Historic District. There are also two art exhibits opening on the Island.
I have a lifelong appreciation for designs that respect a product’s utilitarian roots.
Classic and traditional styles have always done that. In fact, the hallmark of the true preppy aesthetic is the re-purposing of utilitarian items for everyday life: foul weather gear becomes a fashion statement, prep school ties and jackets appear in the office, and the steamer trunk great uncle Dan used at Yale is now a snazzy coffee table at the beach house.
A great example of this approach to life – utilitarian yet stylish – is the canvas tote bag. The most famous version of this functional workhorse is made by L.L. Bean. In fact, L.L. Bean literally invented the canvas tote bag category. The bag was originally developed to carry blocks of ice (back in the day when block ice was used to keep foods fresh in the ice box).
A nicely aged tote
From these humble beginnings, the bag quickly became recognized for its simple yet elegant functionality. L.L. Bean started to offer the canvas tote in a smaller version and called it the “boat & tote.” It was perfect for lugging around sailing and boating items and the more abuse it suffered the better it looked. So began the WASPy affinity for this multipurpose wonder.
As the Official Preppy Handbook cheekily pointed out, every New England family has several of these lying around the house. In some ways, these canvas totes are a sort of status symbol. That you know what these bags represent – where to get them, the history, even the perceived lifestyle they imply – makes them recognized and desirable.
Heritage Research, a workwear inspired British brand, even convinced L.L. Bean to produce a limited run of the original 30oz cotton duck ice tote bag.
Courtesy of Selectism.com The L.L. Bean canvas tote bag has been liberally copied by many competitors. The basic design has even been reinterpreted by suppliers to Wall Street brokerage houses and white shoe law firms. Their logoed bags, given as employee gifts or awards, have become New York chic collector items. Go figure.
It is not uncommon to see these bags on the subway commuting to work with their owners. They are neutrally appealing and bring a bit of the outdoors to the office without being at all kitschy. The midsized L.L. Bean version is perfectly proportioned to hold everyday stuff along with lunch or a morning bagel.
As retailers pull out all the stops to get a share of our dwindling holiday funds, I have come across a variety of interesting marketing approaches.
