OTC Wrapped Up: Last Minute Gift Ideas

With Hanukkah literally upon us and less than a week until Christmas, your gift giving window is rapidly closing. With that in mind, Off The Cuff has assembled some favorite brands for your consideration.

Some of these names you know, others may be new but each one is an OTC favorite. Some are dedicated to one thing, like Molskine, while others are encompass entire families of brands, as does Ralph Lauren. It takes all kinds of businesses to make the world go 'round.

Enjoy.



Classic New England Clothing and "trad" accessories. If you're looking for an authentic Ivy League outfitter to dress you for the office (or Yale Bowl tailgate party), this is the place.



The unequaled giant of menswear style. What else can I say; when Ralph sneezes, the world catches a very stylish cold. If you can think of it, they sell it.



Since Mr. DelVechhio took over this venerable institution, Brooks has gone from outdated to leading edge. Though some decry it's apparent loss of quality, I think the redefinition of Brooks Brothers is just what the doctor ordered.



For those who know L.L. Bean, it is one of the best outfitters in the country - the real McCoy. For the uninitiated, this is the Preppy Handbook come to life - really.

The original Bean store in Freeport, Main, is open 24 hours a day, and nothing is quite a cool as showing up at 3:00 a.m., grabbing a cup of coffee off the front counter and going shopping.



Seinfeld did not invent John Peterman, but it did make him a household name. Problem is, most people did not realize that he was real, and so was his company.

With the kind of copy normally reserved for travelogues from the 1920s, J. Peterman catalogs are cult items among the cognoscenti. But it's the stuff that gets to you - great stuff. Need a standing brass magnifying glass? Velvet squire's coat for wandering around your castle? What about a riverboat gambler's vest? He's got it and so much more.

Don't miss one of his original items, the Counterfeit Mailbag. A longtime OTC recommendation, you can read my review here.



Another great company with a great story. From Oxford to Harvard, they have finely crafted enamel and sterling silver cuff links, regimental ties, jumpers (that's sweaters to us Yanks), and a catalog worth of other gift ideas.

And don't forget about the ribbon watch straps - Esquire Magazine sure didn't; it put them in their famous Big Black Book.



Once and a while a company comes along that redefines a genre. To me, that's what Drakes London has does for the neck wear business. Handmade from start to finish, Drakes ties are indeed made in London by real craftsmen.

Not too wide and not too narrow, the form and quality of a Drakes tie will handsomely carry you through one trend after another.



Ashley Ashoff ties are another handmade neck wear treat. Elegantly simple, restrained designs are rendered with the same silk used by Hermes. The magic here is in the texture; dense wovens and crisp prints get noticed whenever I wear mine. Every tie even comes in its own silk bag.



Tucker Blair finished needlepoint belts are true classics. Though a young company, their belts hearken back to summers on the Cape, hanging out on the dock, watching the sun go down with a cool G&T in your hand. All that from a belt.



An original OTC favorite. Jack Spade makes great bags. In cotton, canvas, nylon or waxwear, Jack Spade bags are industrial and Fifth Avenue all at the same time. In fact, mine is sitting here right next to me, filled with everything I need.



The best notebooks out there. What else can I say? Moleskines come in every shape and size, hard cover or soft. They have a certain something that makes you want to write, draw, scribble or doodle. The very simplicity of its design defines Moleskine's iconic status. Hey, Molskines even have a fan club.



Called "pants of the gods" by GQ, Bill's Khakis are to casual trousers what Hardy Aimes was to tailors. The best. If you have never pulled on a pair of Bill's, you're missing out on a treat.

Heavy and build like two tanks wrapped around your legs, they also possess a kind of softness and comfort that normally takes time to impart. No mistake though, these are not "pre distressed" or "custom aged," it's just how they are made.

So there is no confusion allow me to clarify: these are the best khakis ever made.



Have you heard of R. Horns? Unless you are from Vienna, Austria, probably not. But if you ever stop by their little shop or happen by the minimalist web site, you will discover some exceptional leather goods.

My wallet is from Horns, a gift from my dear wife on a visit to Vienna several years ago. It still has that particular leather smell which instantly tells me it's not from the states. The leather itself is now burnished to a mellow gloss and it looks, if not new, certainly not old.

Marketing to Men: Not the New Women Quite Yet

There was an interesting article this past Saturday in the Wall Street Journal that confirms something I've recently noticed: luxury makers that traditionally target women are taking aim at the men in their lives. While this is not really new, the intensity and focus surrounding the effort is.

Earlier in the year I wrote about Longchamp reviving its line of men's bags; it turns out that was only the opening salvo. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Lanvin, and even Dolce & Gabbana have all ramped up their menswear related offerings. While men are beginning to actually shop more like women, achieving the same level of brand loyalty is still an elusive goal. Generally speaking men are still more comfortable switching brands if one maker does not carry a desired product.

Men also appear to be taking that hunter/gatherer shopping approach to the mall. In 1995 52% of men bought their own clothes, compared to 75% in 2006. In addition, the menswear segment of the retail landscape has become quite profitable as guys across the board ease into the role of acquisitive spender. After observing this growing trend, retailers are taking action.



Earlier this year, Tiffany & Co., and Hermes both opened new stores in the Wall Street district of New York City. Both specifically target male shoppers. The Hermes location even has a separate salon dedicated to its custom tailored clothing; the first of its kind in any Hermes store.

That said, retailers still understand that women and men have different goals when it comes to shopping. Two age old rules will probably always apply: 1) Men tend to know what they want and approach shopping accordingly, and 2) men in general do not want "fashion," they want functional style that lasts.



A good example of effectively responding to the trend of men taking a stronger interest in shopping is the Brook's Brother's Black Fleece line. Designer Thom Browne reigned in the excesses of his famously shrunken suits to create a stylish yet realistic collection that is still well grounded in Brook's sense of tradition.

The suits and sport coats, pants and shirts are all easily understandable and nonthreatening to the target market of younger men looking to get the Brooks' name with a modern flair. The line balances customer desires for "new" classics with usability.

The male customer can browse through selections without feeling like he is wasting time on trendy fluff. In the process, Brooks Brothers gets a new convert and the customer gets some sharp yet timeless clothes.

Men are not yet the next women when it comes to shopping, but maybe it doesn't even matter. Men are now interested in shopping for themselves. They care about the experience and are more knowledgeable than ever before. If you are a retailer, that's what you should really be focusing on.

A Thought on the Influences of Style

Over on The Sartorialist, I just posted a comment for his contest on the influences of style. I was a little surprised about what popped into my head right away, but I went ahead and posted it because it's the truth. Since the most interesting events in life tend to be the sources of who we are, I thought you might appreciate this little story. And my dad is still very much the natty dresser.

The most powerful influence on my personal style goes back to one person, my father.

While there have been many other influences, from magazines and movies to several stints working at Polo/Ralph Lauren stores, it always comes down to him. My father has a timeless sense of taste and a respect for quality. He is, at heart, a J. Press man who over the years loosened up and expanded to Brooks Brothers. That being said he always looked comfortable and stylish without being stuffy or off-putting. To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy, which is very important since he is doctor. While he is a conservative dresser, my dad is by no means a sartorial wallflower. From white tie, tails and top hat for an annual dinner dance to creamy flannels, blue blazer, and a panama for a summer’s concert under the stars, he most certainly exemplifies personal style.

If any one event cemented my love for clothing and the power it has, it was when I saw him at work but he didn’t know I was there. I was with a friend who worked in the hospital’s emergency room and we stopped there so he could drop something off. While I stood in a corner and watched the commotion, I saw my dad come around the corner wearing a seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty. In the emergency room no less! What will forever stay in my heart and mind though is what happened next. He walked over to a man lying on a gurney parked along the wall, gently leaned over him and began to talk. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my father’s patient relax. At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help his patient. The style on the outside matched the man on the inside. More than any magazine or movie star, that image will always be my definition of true style.

Special OTC Discount at Ashley Ashoff

I am happy to announce another great holiday discount for Off The Cuff DC readers.

Ashley Ashoff, maker of some of the most elegant ties around, is offering a 30% discount when you mention that you are ordering through OTC.

I wrote about Ashley earlier this year and can't say enough about her dedication to designing and building exceptional ties. For the ladies out there, she also produces outstanding handmade scarves.

So, to take advantage of your OTC discount, visit her web site and find the perfect gift. Then, e-mail Ashley directly at salesinfo@ashleyashoff.com. She and her staff will personally take care of your order.

But don't take too long to decide, the discount expires right along with 2008, on December 31.

Art of Shaving In D.C.'s Union Station

Not too long ago, while passing through Grand Central Station in New York, I first noticed the Art of Shaving.

Warm woods and glass, alabaster lighting with a vague Parisian/Milano feel to it, the store cum barber shop was an immediate draw.

Its elegant feel belies a company obsessed with the timeless and masculine art of the shave. The approach? (1) Prepare, (2) Later Up, (3) Shave, and then (4) Moisturize. Their extensive line of product offerings follow this mantra with pre-shave oils, skin sensitive shaving cremes and a variety of after shave balms.

Founded by a husband and wife team, she with a spa and skin care background, the company is not just a fancy showplace; it's an actual skin care business. That it is a modern "guy's spa" that still retains a definite air of manliness is testament to the owners style and business savvy.



The Art of Shaving also stocks a wonderful variety of razors and associated paraphernalia. From the ultra-modern five blade Gillette Fusion to classic old school strait edge razors from Thiers-Issard, every need and skill level is covered. You will not, however, find an eight pack of disposable single blades. This is temple built to the "art" of shaving and is appropriately stocked with products equal in design and price.

When I first saw that it was going into Union Station I hoped it would do well, it's a great site for travelers looking to grab that unique grooming product on the dash to the train's platform. It just feels right. I finally took the time to stop by the shop and chatted with Marcus, the store manager. Even with a shaky economy, he indicated the store was doing just fine.

His philosophy is that even when times get tough, there are some things people still need - and grooming products is one of them. I tend to agree. While I may not feel the need to get a Starbucks coffee every day, I do shave. Maybe I'll make Art of Shaving grooming products my small day-to-day luxury; form and function working together.



For a real treat, stop by the in-house barber spa for a shave or haircut. I have yet to get in there myself, but you can bet I'll let you know how it goes when I do. From what I've heard, it's worth every cent. Another larger Art of Shaving will be opening in 2009 near the Mayflower Hotel. It also will be in relatively direct competition with The Grooming Lounge.

Whatever the result, there are going to be a lot more well shaved guys in D.C.

Holiday Sale at Tucker Blair For OTC Readers

Preppy belt maker Tucker Blair is in the holiday spirit and Off The Cuff readers are on the receiving end. From now to December 24th, you can get 50% off everything at Tucker Blair.

A favorite of OTC, Tucker Blair's finished needlepoint belts are charming and stylish all at once. Though a new company, its clever and irreverent designs make these belts instant classics. I regularly sport the American Flag model while Mrs. OTC chose the starfish.

So pick yourself up a great needlepoint belt, maybe a needlepoint headband for your girl. The company is always expanding its offerings and by next summer (seems like a long way off right now) you should be able to order cool needlepoint flip-flops.

So, stop by the Tucker Blair's website and pick up your own belt for for 50% off! Just use the coupon code "holiday08" when checking out.

The Interview: Michael Kobold (Part II)

The continuation of Off The Cuff's exclusive interview with luxury watch maker Mike Kobold, founder of Kobold Watch Co. To read Part I of the interview, please click HERE.


Off The Cuff: So, who is your customer? Who is a Kobold guy?

Mike Kobold: He is someone who has an affinity for finely made products – shoes, cigars, cars, etc. Of course, he is also someone who has an affinity for watches regardless of his career. I say that because many of our watches are tool watches, they are meant to be used in challenging and difficult situations. But they are also beautiful and elegant pieces of horological art. (The new Soarway GMT is pictured above)

Though I am not going to go into too much detail about specific demographics, one group we do market to encompasses military/police/protective services.

Since our watches are not inexpensive – and I can touch on that in a minute – we do want to attract people who can afford them. Active service military or police tend to be younger guys with disposable income and, equally important, they want a distinctive best-of-class product that’s going to perform. At the other end of the spectrum are retired military; their kids are out of the house and they now have the chance to indulge in their own interests.


Mike Kobold, Founder

What I don’t want is someone who really can’t afford to purchase a Kobold at this time and who may then regret their decision because of other more important things they should be addressing. That’s a bad call for the customer and for Kobold because we now have someone with buyer’s remorse and potentially a watch that has moved to the secondary market.

OTC: What about the used watch, or “secondary” market? What is your feeling about that?

MK: You know, generally speaking I don’t think about it too much because that’s not where our focus is – we don’t create watches for the secondary market, we want someone to buy a Kobold watch because they want to keep it and use it. However, the secondary market does provide a point of entry for some people who cannot afford our watches at full price and that’s important too. I hope that should someone buy one of our watches through that channel, their next Kobold will come from us.

Watches are so personal and for many collectors, knowing that they picked out a specific watch and were involved in the acquisition from start to finish makes a huge difference to them. But however it happens, we want all Kobold owners to have the same feeling of being part of a special community. That’s key to any successful brand.

OTC: In some of the watch forums and chat rooms, I have seen negative comments about pricing – basically that you charge too much for your watches. Is that a fair complaint?

MK: Our watches are not inexpensive and I’m certainly not apologizing for that. But I think people need to remember that watch making is an expensive business and we are still a very small company. I’m a very frugal guy – I still live in the same one-bedroom apartment I’ve had since college, I drive a pre-owned car and am constantly reinvesting back into the business. The sub $1,000 watch market is like 90% of the overall market which means that all the high-end tool and luxury watches out there are all fighting for the same 10% market share.


The Phantom - a military favorite


The Spirit of America

That means constant development and constant marketing and those two things cost a lot of money. Remember too that the lag time for a new watch, from conception to retail can run anywhere from 6 months to two years. Production costs and overhead increases affect every business and we are no different – so yes, that gets reflected in the retail cost of our watches. Every year we offer a new model at a reduced price to say thank you to our current and new customers – it does cost us real money in the form of lost revenue, but honestly that’s immaterial because the point is to continue and build the Kobold community.

OTC: What about the production limit of 2,500 units per watch model – where did that come from?

MK: It came from the business plan I drafted for my MBA project; that’s actually when Kobold Watch was founded. I chose to cap watch production at 2,500 units per model because at that time it was a figure I never thought I would reach – an arbitrary number. Now it defines the unique nature of every Kobold watch and I have no plans to change it.

OTC: When I think of your brand, I see some guy parachuting into the wilderness to study extinct botany or something equally exotic. So what’s next for Kobold Watch - how do you plan to build on the brand?

MK: Well, you can tell your readers that right now I’m looking at the designs for a new chronograph – 40mm. They can expect to see it in a year or so. It’s a great looking watch. That’s one of the things I love about watches – the emotional value they have for so many people. Certainly building on the brand’s message - “Embrace Adventure” – is something I want to continue. Whatever that adventure is, Kobold can be part of it; whether you are exploring Antarctica, excavating Mayan ruins or just living your life, our watches are up to the task.


A Polar Surveyor in action

We’ll be rolling out new models on a pretty regular basis, still a 2,500 unit maximum and it’s amazing how that is no longer such a large number. I’m also working on a book – that’s still in the development phase and it’s something I am very excited about.

There are many medium and short term projects that will help expand the brand but also keep it involved in the lives of the serious adventurers who rely on and support Kobold Watch. One project I am very dedicated to and will likely take a very long time to accomplish is the development of a 100% American automatic military watch. Our soldiers, sailors and airmen all wear watches that are made in other countries – good watches to be sure – but not American.

I want this country to be a leader again in fine horology and that will take a long time to accomplish because it involves rebuilding an entire industry that have been absent from the American landscape for more than 40 years. Still, that’s my big long term goal.

OTC: Mike, thanks very much for taking the time to speak with me and for giving Off The Cuff’s readers across the world a better understanding of your great brand – and your great watches.

Variations in Seasonal Marketing

As retailers pull out all the stops to get a share of our dwindling holiday funds, I have come across a variety of interesting marketing approaches.

One of the more notable vehicles is the social action campaign at Rugby. Their goal is to tap into the community service idealism of the Rugby target demographic and build a social movement around some unique Rugby products. Commercial? Blatant capitalism? Fashion giant pandering to the pseudo-social consciousness of spoiled kids? Perhaps, but it's also a well organized effort for a very good cause.

Just so there is no confusion, Rugby did not ask me to write this, I just find the strategy refreshing and heartfelt. Ralph Lauren and his companies have a long tradition of supporting health care, social and environmental causes.

This new effort marks the first time that Lauren has used design-collaboration to develop a product line. The current ad campaign highlights the first three items developed for the campaign and their co-creators.

50% of the purchase price of the special edition Match Rugby shirt (above) will go the company's new Match Rugby Fund to support young social entrepreneurs.


Toms Shoes for Rugby

Rugby has teamed with Blake Mycoskie of Toms Shoes to create a special edition of Rugby patterned shoes. For each pair purchased, a pair of shoes will be donated to a needy child.


FEED Foundation Bag for Rugby

They have also joined forces with Lauren Bush, founder of FEED Foundation (and longtime girlfriend of David Lauren) to design a collection of limited edition burlap Rugby inspired bags. Proceeds from the bags will go directly to the FEED Foundation.

Both designers expanded on hallmarks of the brand for their pieces: “Rugby does ‘create your own’ elements in their rugby shirts, so we took that idea and decided to make four extra FEED country patches to be sold separately,” explained Bush.

The Interview: Michael Kobold (Part I)

Close your eyes. What comes to mind when I say, “handmade mechanical timepiece,” “exacting quality,” and “coveted by collectors, celebrities, explorers and heads of state?” Did your thoughts immediately drift to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania? Maybe they should.

While Switzerland is home to the likes of Rolex and Germany to Glashutte, the Steel City is in fact the world headquarters of Kobold Watch Company and the remarkable Michael Kobold.

At all of 30 years old, Kobold has done something most in the luxury industry – heck, any industry – would have thought impossible. Within the insular world of high-end timepieces Michael Kobold has created a boutique watch company from scratch and it’s thriving. His line of watches, anchored by the stunning, and stunningly functional Polar Surveyor, is primarily geared to adventurous types – armchair and genuine alike.


Mike Kobold

Celebrating its 12th anniversary this year, Kobold Watch Company is barely out of diapers when compared to brands like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre or Breguet. But his creations are already being compared to Rolex and Omega – two brands traditionally associated with jet setting, globetrotting and adventure. Often it’s Kobold doing the comparison, but that’s part of his brand’s success: he isn’t afraid to put his products to the test and tell you why they are just as good – if not better – than those other gold plated names.

When I first came across Kobold and his quirky little watch company a few years ago, it intrigued me. Nothing serious mind you, but I heard that the guy wore one of his watches on each wrist and that’s got to count for something. The more I learned, the more the man and brand impressed me.

I’m not alone. His loyal brand ambassadors include former President Bill Clinton, A-list actors like The Sopranos’ James Gandalfini and CSI: New York’s Gary Sinise, legendary adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes and global architect Daniel Libeskind.


Ran Fiennes: Brand Ambassador-in-Chief

I recently took receipt of my first Kobold, the Arctic Diver “Swiss.” This is a new model being offered in three versions, the “Swiss” which houses an ETA 2824-A2 movement, and two other variations which primarily sport U.S. components and are run by an in-house manufacture K.2651 movement based on new-old-stock German made movements.


My new Kobold Arctic Diver


The flagship Polar Surveyor

It’s a great watch. And though at 46mm it’s quite big, the Arctic Diver sits very comfortably on my wrist. What really impressed me however, was the emotional connection I developed with this watch almost immediately. It’s unique yet classically inspired design is easy to read which is good because it’s also very much built for someone who plans on wearing it to the ends of the earth. This watch has a purposefulness to it that makes me want to be like Indiana Jones, or Phillipe Cousteau (who, by the way designed his own Kobold watch).


Philippe Cousteau & The Large Soarway Diver

So, after watching this upstart company grow from the offshoot of an MBA project into a legitimate and respected player in the high-end horological business, I was ready to sit down with Mike and find out what makes Kobold tick.

Off The Cuff: Mike, tell me how things are going in the watch business? It’s been a rough year and most high-end brands are down about 30% – does that sound right?

Mike Kobold: Yes, pretty much every brand has seen at least a 30% overall drop from last year. Everyone’s been hit hard, but we have been able to make some adjustments and trim costs without compromising our standards. Still, the market is overheated and some of the larger houses have not been able to react as nimbly as us.

OTC: What has been your approach?

MK: We have cut costs without cutting our customer service. That has meant fewer trips and fewer shows. Fewer dinners and less entertaining; and my staff have worked to identify areas where we can tighten the belt and squeeze out more efficiency. We are still a small operation and have the ability to react a little more quickly than others. We saw what was coming down the road and started to make changes early.

OTC: What about your Internet-based model? How has that helped, or hurt, your overall business?

MK: It has definitely helped in that we are able to focus on watchmaking and keep the business geared toward customer service. It’s also easier for us to keep in direct contact with our customers and potential customers know that if they call us, they are going to be speaking with a real person – could be me. That said, as we have grown it’s just not that easy for me to be in direct contact with all of the customers and that’s been a frustration, albeit a nice one to have. It’s definitely been an organic kind of growth.

One of the main challenges of being an internet-based company is exposure. Since we only have a very small retail presence, Kobold has to do a lot of advertising. And as the founder and face of Kobold, I need to be out networking and making appearances. If you looked at my expense reports, you probably would question my cost cutting claim, but a big part of my job is to be seen, to meet people and to generate interest in and awareness of the brand. Still, it’s getting harder for me to maintain a personal level of customer interaction as we continue to grow.

As a company, having a strong focus on customer contact and service also means that we are better able to anticipate and react to customer needs. For example, the Arctic Diver roll-out was delayed a couple of times (ed: originally scheduled for customer delivery in April 2009, customers who pre-ordered their watches finally started to receive them in August). That really frustrated and embarrassed me, but it was a supplier issue and there wasn’t much I could do at that end.

OTC: So, how did you handle it?

MK: What we did for our customers who had pre-ordered an Arctic Diver was give them a free calfskin strap and make every effort to keep them up to date. We actually called every person and told them what was going on and let them know that they were getting a free strap as a thank you for their patience. It cost us a fair amount of money, but it was the right way to handle an unfortunate situation.

To be continued in Part II...

Jersey Style

I've really wanted to write about this, but unfortunately have been tied up for the past few days.

Last week I saw Bruce Springsteen in concert. From a very nice box overlooking the stage. Now, this has absolutely nothing to do with the actual concert per se, but I am now of an age where I more fully appreciate the benefits of watching an outstanding concert from the comfort of a leather lounge chair with both cold beer and a private bathroom in easy reach.

My wife and I were invited to this sold out event and needed no prompting when we learned of the cushy digs. If you ever get such an offer, take it. I don't care if it's for The Wiggles, a corporate box makes everything better.

Well, enough of that, what I really wanted to talk about was Bruce, the Boss. Let me first say that this concert was fantastic. It was not a "show" or and "event" or even a "production." It was a concert, and by that I mean Bruce and the E-Street Band played for two solid hours with no lip syncing or backup tracks. That's how real musicians play and they are very much for real. These guys are all in their 50s and if I have half as much stamina and rock-n-roll when I get there, I'll be in good shape.



What really went through my mind that night was how real the whole thing was; it was classic rock-n-roll. A big open stage, drum kit back and center, Hammond organ off to the side and the entire band out in front. Everyone wore black; the focus was the music because you already knew who they were, and they're a bunch of guys from Jersey who don't need to look like peacocks.



The Verizon Center was a sea of people, from couples in their 60s all the way down to the little kid on his dad's shoulders who reached up from the floor to get a big handshake and wave from the Boss. Bruce worked the crowd, in front of and behind the stage, had giant projection screens all around so everyone could have a good view, and he played his heart out. After witnessing that concert, I have no sympathy for the current pop stars who look good but can't sing live, have an entourage to go get a cup of coffee, and need to take tour breaks because of "exhaustion."



You want to see someone who's worked to get where he is - who wasn't manufactured for a target audience? Go watch Bruce do his job. That's style and that's class. Period.

Ask Men.com Style Icons: A Great Resource

The folks over at AskMen.com recently sent me a link to their profile of industrial giant, and father of Fiat, Gianni Agnelli. This founder of the wear-your-watch-on-your-sleeve club was a consummate clothes horse. Of course his clothes were lovely hand made heirlooms so well crafted that his equally eccentric grandson Lapo Elkann still wears them.

The profile is pithy but well done and highlights Agnelli's flair for the functionally dramatic. What really caught my attention though, was the collection of additional profiles listed at the bottom of the page. JFK, Barack Obama, Kanye West and the last three decades of James Bond, to name but a few. Each one is a succinct shot of what specifically makes them an icon of style and how specifically you can create your own interpretation of their style. Normally I give these sorts of things short shrift because they are so often thin cliches. Not so these brief nuggets of history and fashion.

I think they are a great resource for classic and classy looks that stand the test of time. They also throw out small but fascinating nuggets of information, like the make of sweater worn by Jack Kennedy during his iconic walk through the suft of a Massachusetts beach. It was a J. Press pima cotton v-neck and you can still buy it today. Or that the watch worn by President Elect Obama is in fact a chronograph given to him by his Secret Service detail. It's actually from the Secret Service store and has the agency's shield logo emblazoned on it's face.


Secret Service watch given to President Elect Obama

Now, that's the sort of stuff that I find interesting. Taking the time to put objects in their context and not just saying "this is cool, wear it"; helps the reader to understand where things come from and how they can make them their own.

Industry Leaders Speak: The WWD/DNR CEO Summit

Recently, at the St. Regis Hotel in New York City, several leading menswear industry CEOs took to the stage and spoke unscripted about what makes them and their companies successful.

In the first of a two-part series, DNR reports on this fascinating event. From Polo/Ralph Lauren's namesake, Ralph Lauren, to J. Crew's Mickey Drexler, it's essentially a transcript of each CEO's discussion on how they think, adapt, and make decisions. They also go into what it takes to create - or in Drexler's case, recreate - some of the most iconic companies in the market today.

I typically don't like to just post a link and say, "hey, check this out..." but in this case, it's definitely worth taking a few minutes an learning more about how this fascinating industry works.

And yes, I know; it's another picture of Ralph. I found one of Mickey, but it just wasn't as good a shot.

Retail Blues Meet Global Finance

The economic crisis currently scorching balance sheets across the globe has finally reached up to singe some prominent retailers.

Companies like Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks which have so far been able to ride above the economy's troubled waters, are now getting caught in the unprecedented economic downturn. In a nutshell, people are realizing that while they do need clothes, they don't necessarily need fashion; or at least pricey fashion. This is an abrupt turnaround from the last several years of aspirational aquistion.

Basically, the party's over.

Everyone's Feeling the Pain
Until recently, the conventional wisdom held that prestigious retailers were more or less immune to the credit crunch affecting the masses. Their affluent customers appeared to be just fine - if only a little more judicious with their spending than in the past. For many companies, that mirage has evaporated. In October Neiman Marcus and Saks posted declines of 27.6 percent 16.6 percent, respectively. Nordstrom, which lowered its third-quarter earnings outlook to a range of 32 to 37 cents, suffered a 15.7 percent comparable-store decline.


Boston Area Gap Store

Specialty retailers weren’t spared either. Gap North America and International put up comparable store declines of 14 and 5 percent, respectively, modest in comparison to Banana Republic and Old Navy, which registered decreases of 17 and 20 percent, respectively. Ouch.

According to Burt Tansky, CEO of Neiman Marcus, high end customer service will not suffer. In today’s DNR, he stresses that the stores will continue to offer “high-level service” and that associates will continue to be work closely with customers. “They are obviously still shopping, just shopping less and shopping more focused.” He also said his customers’ shopping habits are very much tied to the stock market and that “based on our experience in previous business cycles, we believe our customers’ buying levels will increase once the economic environment stabilizes.”

Though many retailers were expecting soft numbers going into the fall, the reality of the situation is on the bleaker side. Slowing sales and cautious shoppers are hitting everyone in the sector harder than anticipated. This is not a purely domestic virus. No, the international flavor of this crisis is a sign of things to come. When American debt held in Asian funds invested in by German insurers goes bad because of residential foreclosures in Detroit, you know we are in a new place.

Bucking the Trend
Mid-tier retailers like Macy’s, J.C. Penny and Gottschalks had poor showings too, but not nearly as bad and their high-end counterparts. Discounters like BJ’s Wholesale – the place you go to buy a 20 pack of undershirts – showed positive numbers and WalMart, almost 2.5 percent. The message is clear, for the commodities of life, brand is no longer king; value is.


Ralph Lauren's Chicago Flagship

All that said, which company totally out-performed the market? Ralph Lauren. The company posted a second-quarter profit gain of 39.6 percent that beat analysts’ estimates by 33 cents. For those of you who are not into market lingo – that is huge. Normally companies beat expectations by two or three cents, not 33.

The company announced that its online presence, RalphLauren.com posted double digit gains across all major categories. One reason for this strong showing could be the company’s brand diversification. With distinctive yet connected brands covering all price points, Ralph Lauren is able to compensate for slower sales of Purple Label inventory with greater demand in Chaps. The company also assumed full control of its Japanese operations this year, a move that will finally balance local inventory that heretofore always seemed skewed disproportionately toward menswear.

What does this all mean for clothing retailers? Well, first it means that things will probably get worse as we lurch toward what can only be described as an anemic looking holiday season. Actually, anemic may be too generous an adjective. Second, this situation is also a chickens-coming-home-to-roost situation for many high-end labels that courted mass market shoppers with discounted luxury. I wrote at length about this earlier in the year.

When the fiscal dust settles, we will invariably be in better shape as a market overall. Companies with thin financials and leveraged balance sheets will have fallen by the wayside. Those with solid business plans and strong fundamentals will see new opportunities here and abroad.

Consumers will likely set the tone for a while as designers and manufacturers keep their noses to the grindstone, producing goods which customers actually want to buy. Passionate visionaries will be able to capitalize on the new breathing space in the market and present collections that can help define our new economic and social reality.



If nothing else, this turbulent and exciting moment in history is signaling to people everywhere that no country, population, or financial demographic is an island anymore. Financially speaking, we are a vast interconnected web of commerce and no one is immune from catching the proverbial cold.

As deep and technical as that all sounds, I'm really curious as to how this will all be reflected in a runway show.

NEWS FLASH: Retail Politics

Ralph Lauren and Brooks Brothers both made retail news today.

One is further expanding its multi-layered brand approach to the Southern luxury market hub of Atlanta, while the other is weighing the next step for a fledgling breakout high-end product line. These two approaches present interesting examples of how luxury companies handle the never ending problem of gaining market share.

Southern Polo
Ralph Lauren recently opened a new flagship store in Atlanta, Georgia, and has projected robust sales for the location. According to Charles Fagan, RL's executive vice president of global retail brand development, the store, equal in size to the Chevy Chase, Maryland, flagship, is expected to produce comparable sales per square foot.

Additionally, Fagan told DNR that the Atlanta location is especially chock full of elegance and glamour. The Lenox Square location will greet customers with 14,000 square feet of upscale Southern ambiance combined with the sophistication of the company's Milan store.

Juxtaposing this high-end environment, the RRL store-within-a-store presents a more rustic general store environment, with a tin ceiling and rough hewn floors. Compared to the main store's copious limestone and wrought-iron, this country casual atmosphere best highlights RRL's chinos and work wear inspired clothing.

Read the full DNR article here.

Black Fleece Leading the Herd
In a related story, Brooks Brothers appears to be seriously considering giving the newly launched Black Fleece line its own store. No firm plans have been announced, but Brooks CEO Claudio Del Vecchio has made it very clear that he thinks the line can carry its own stand-alone stores.

I wholeheartedly agree. Black Fleece, the result of a creative collaboration with designer Thom Browne intended to freshen up Brooks' tradition-bound personality, has been a surprising success. While many longtime customers may look askance at the slim cut and slightly avant garde designs, sales have made it clear that the line is a hit in many markets - particularly Asia. The overall design and feel of of Black Fleece, along with it's handmade quality, make it a unique and clearly identifiable brand apart from Brooks Brothers and for that matter, from Thom Browne.

Browne's contract with Brooks is for four seasons and Del Vecchio is already looking beyond the Thom Browne era, suggesting that different guest designers will be invited to regularly freshen the Black Fleece line. This strategy would give the brand something akin to a limited edition atelier feel. If successful, this approach could make Black Fleece a regular "must have" for classic dressers looking for a seasonal sartorial twist.

Actual Black Fleece stores would be limited to specific global markets that have shown the most interest. All in all, I think both the success of Black Fleece and Brooks' overall turnaround are both excellent examples of why men everywhere should say a special word of thanks to Claudio Del Vecchio.

Read the full DNR article here.

Yes, He Did.

This evening at 11:00 p.m., ET, Barack Obama was elected the first black president of the United States of America.

My son will never know a world without a black president - to him, it will be just another unremarkable fact. And that's a wonderful thing. In addition to it's historic role, this coming transition will hit D.C. with an especially monumental impact as well.

An Obama administration will also change the character of D.C., from 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue to Capitol Hill; from the Georgeton bars to Ben'sChili Bowel. The incoming staff, turnover in the halls of Congress, and new players will all put a new stamp on this city and its institutions.

Off The Cuff will be following the transition and the impact of this president's incoming crew.