Though I have not written about it too much, I am a very customer service focused person. Having spent years in high-end retail and now the association business, I know from good customer service.
I also have rather high standards for myself when it comes to helping others and providing personal service; in another life I am sure I was a very good butler. What truly saddens me though,is how often I am disappointed with the lack of basic customer service skills displayed by so many sales people.When approached by a customer, deliberately or not, too many project the the distinct attitude of being rudely interrupted - even if they were just staring at a wall. Deep down they do not want to actually help you; they want you to leave them alone. This is a major character flaw in too many sales people who really should be working as far away from other people as possible.
Often this rings true for high-end stores as well. The difference here is that these rarefied staffers simply feel they are better than many of their customers. The have embodied the luxury brand for which they work to such a degree that, in their minds, you - the mere customer - are of a lesser class. It's a variation of the Helsinki Syndrome, but instead of kidnapping terrorists, the person is identifying with, say, a luxury French harness maker.
Of course, many people who work in retail are wonderful individuals who have a natural desire to help others; to simply be of service. Mary Louise Starkey, founder of the exclusive household staffing agency Starkey International, calls it "service heart." If you have it, you have it; and if you don't, it's very hard to develop from the outside in. When I run across people who embody such natural service personalities I take note; and yesterday it happened twice.
What makes this interesting is that it happened at opposite ends of the retail economic spectrum: Ralph Lauren and Wal Mart. At Wal Mart I was assisted by a young lady who went out of her way to track down the key to a locked display. At one point I thought she had abandoned me; actually she had gone to locate a manager at the other end of the store and then worked her way back to me through the crowds.
She was professional and patient though clearly frustrated that I was being inconvenienced since the employee who should have been helping me was nowhere to be found. Once I had what I needed she took me to a side register and rang me up herself.
While that was a wonderful example of attention, patience, and follow-through; my Ralph Lauren experience is one of detail. When I walked into the large flagship store in swanky Chevy Chase, I was immediately met by a small cluster of sales people bunched together chatting about store issues. They were not rude, mind you, just otherwise engaged. Over his shoulder, one young man said hello and went back to his discussion. I felt like I was walking into some one's house unannounced and interrupting a family gathering.
I then strolled into into the rear section of the store and was quickly greeted by another young gentleman. He had been folding some clothes but stopped when I came in. Noticing I had two heavy looking bags he immediately asked if I would like him to store them securely while I walked around. I said, "yes, thank you," and set about looking for a present for my wife.
What struck me most was that his actions were natural. He instinctively looked for a way to make my visit more comfortable and (of course) to put me in a purchasing mood. When I eventually picked up my bags, he was equally gracious even though another sales person had actually helped me with a purchase.
When I return to that Ralph Lauren store, I will make a point to look for him because he made a point of looking after me when he did not necessarily have to. That is innate customer service.
I headed up M Street feeling a bit like an archaeologist being ushered into a dig site long after the locals had cleared out.
With the White House a few short blocks away, I strode up to the National Geographic Museum and promptly entered the wrong door. After finding the right entrance, I found myself face to face with a warrior and his horse - both almost 2,000 years old.
Along with about 30 bloggers and photographers from across DC, I was invited to a sneak peek of National Geographic's new exhibit, "Terra Cotta Warriors: Guardians of China's First Emperor." I've been telling you about this for a few months and I really could not wait to get in and take a look.
The exhibit finally opened today but yesterday evening I got the chance to be slightly more than an armchair adventurer. I also got to take pictures which you will not, so if you go please leave the camera in your bag.
Featuring the largest number of terra cotta figures ever to travel to the United States for a single exhibition, the collection showcases 15 terra cotta figures from the tomb of China's first emperor. It also highlights 100 sets of artifacts including weapons, stone armor, coins and jade jewelry among many other items.
Stone armor & detail
Considered by China to be Grade I artifacts, the collection sent to the United States is literally priceless. My notes from the sneak peek contain words like "remarkable", "astounding" and "beautifully curated exhibit." The setting is serene and organized as though one where walking through a pavilion or elegant home.
The exhibition will run through March 31, 2010. Hours are 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., with extended hours on Wednesdays until 9:00 p.m.Tickets are $12 for adults and $10 for children 2-12 and seniors. Kids under 2 are free. For more information, visit www.warriorsdc.org or call (202) 857-7700.
As a special benefit, the PIMCO Foundation, an exhibition sponsor, is partnering with the museum to offer 200 free tickets every Wednesday evening.
I want to thank the National Geographic staff for hosting this special event and for a remarkable show. Here are some of my favorite shots from last evening:
For information about this remarkable and rare show, please visit its site at www.warriorsdc.org.
The economic crisis currently scorching balance sheets across the globe has finally reached up to singe some prominent retailers.
Companies like Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks which have so far been able to ride above the economy's troubled waters, are now getting caught in the unprecedented economic downturn. In a nutshell, people are realizing that while they do need clothes, they don't necessarily need fashion; or at least pricey fashion. This is an abrupt turnaround from the last several years of aspirational aquistion.Basically, the party's over.Everyone's Feeling the PainUntil recently, the conventional wisdom held that prestigious retailers were more or less immune to the credit crunch affecting the masses. Their affluent customers appeared to be just fine - if only a little more judicious with their spending than in the past. For many companies, that mirage has evaporated. In October Neiman Marcus and Saks posted declines of 27.6 percent 16.6 percent, respectively. Nordstrom, which lowered its third-quarter earnings outlook to a range of 32 to 37 cents, suffered a 15.7 percent comparable-store decline.
Boston Area Gap StoreSpecialty retailers weren’t spared either. Gap North America and International put up comparable store declines of 14 and 5 percent, respectively, modest in comparison to Banana Republic and Old Navy, which registered decreases of 17 and 20 percent, respectively. Ouch.According to Burt Tansky, CEO of Neiman Marcus, high end customer service will not suffer. In today’s DNR, he stresses that the stores will continue to offer “high-level service” and that associates will continue to be work closely with customers. “They are obviously still shopping, just shopping less and shopping more focused.” He also said his customers’ shopping habits are very much tied to the stock market and that “based on our experience in previous business cycles, we believe our customers’ buying levels will increase once the economic environment stabilizes.”Though many retailers were expecting soft numbers going into the fall, the reality of the situation is on the bleaker side. Slowing sales and cautious shoppers are hitting everyone in the sector harder than anticipated. This is not a purely domestic virus. No, the international flavor of this crisis is a sign of things to come. When American debt held in Asian funds invested in by German insurers goes bad because of residential foreclosures in Detroit, you know we are in a new place.Bucking the Trend
Mid-tier retailers like Macy’s, J.C. Penny and Gottschalks had poor showings too, but not nearly as bad and their high-end counterparts. Discounters like BJ’s Wholesale – the place you go to buy a 20 pack of undershirts – showed positive numbers and WalMart, almost 2.5 percent. The message is clear, for the commodities of life, brand is no longer king; value is.
Ralph Lauren's Chicago Flagship
All that said, which company totally out-performed the market? Ralph Lauren. The company posted a second-quarter profit gain of 39.6 percent that beat analysts’ estimates by 33 cents. For those of you who are not into market lingo – that is huge. Normally companies beat expectations by two or three cents, not 33.The company announced that its online presence, RalphLauren.com posted double digit gains across all major categories. One reason for this strong showing could be the company’s brand diversification. With distinctive yet connected brands covering all price points, Ralph Lauren is able to compensate for slower sales of Purple Label inventory with greater demand in Chaps. The company also assumed full control of its Japanese operations this year, a move that will finally balance local inventory that heretofore always seemed skewed disproportionately toward menswear.What does this all mean for clothing retailers? Well, first it means that things will probably get worse as we lurch toward what can only be described as an anemic looking holiday season. Actually, anemic may be too generous an adjective. Second, this situation is also a chickens-coming-home-to-roost situation for many high-end labels that courted mass market shoppers with discounted luxury. I wrote at length about this earlier in the year.When the fiscal dust settles, we will invariably be in better shape as a market overall. Companies with thin financials and leveraged balance sheets will have fallen by the wayside. Those with solid business plans and strong fundamentals will see new opportunities here and abroad.Consumers will likely set the tone for a while as designers and manufacturers keep their noses to the grindstone, producing goods which customers actually want to buy. Passionate visionaries will be able to capitalize on the new breathing space in the market and present collections that can help define our new economic and social reality.
If nothing else, this turbulent and exciting moment in history is signaling to people everywhere that no country, population, or financial demographic is an island anymore. Financially speaking, we are a vast interconnected web of commerce and no one is immune from catching the proverbial cold.
As deep and technical as that all sounds, I'm really curious as to how this will all be reflected in a runway show.
For all my American readers I have a small request: vote.
If you have not yet done so please, and it pains me to say this, turn off your computer and go vote right now.
Apart from my personal belief that voting is a civic duty akin to paying taxes, keeping your lawn neat and helping old ladies across the street, this year our country is facing a collection of important and dynamic issues that will shape our nation and our world for years to come.
The votes cast or not cast today will reverberate in countries around the world. Every election is important, but this year provides citizens with the ability to make a fresh start here in Washington. It is also historic because of the candidates themselves. Either way barriers will be broken; be it Barack Obama as our first black president or Sarah Palin as our first female vice president.
Though it's easy to say that all politicians are the same, it's just not true. The candidates for president are different men, with different views about our role the world, economics, geopolitical conflicts, taxes and social issues. So please take a few moments and learn about each candidate's views and plans. If neither Democrat Barack Obama or Republican John McCain work for you, there is a Green Party's Cynthia McKinney, Libertarian candidate Bob Barr, the Constitution Party's Chuck Baldwin, and perennial independent, Ralph Nader.
As I stood on line this morning and waited for more than an hour to vote, two thoughts ran through my mind. The first was that I've never seen a crowd quite this big before. The second was that in many countries throughout the world voting can be a perilous and even fatal endeavor.
The simple yet profound act of choosing our leaders by secret ballot is most certainly taken for granted here. That's not a condemnation, but rather a fact: those of us born in the U.S. have never experienced anything else. We cannot imagine not being able to vote or to not vote; it is the benefit of a comfortable democracy. Yet in recent years we have seen the lengths to which people in other countries will go to secure this right and the price that many have paid to do so, too often the ultimate price.
And don't forget that you are not only voting for a president. On my ballot alone where choices for judges, members of the school board, and members of Congress; ballot questions; and potential changes to the state constitution. So, all I ask is that you take the time to go vote; it is a wonderful privilege granted to us through the efforts and pain of others.
Of course, you should also make a point to dress well when you head out to the polls. When doing your civic duty, look like it matters. Because it does.
I recently read an interesting article that noted even in these challenging financial times, the sales of high end handbags – timeless and iconic styles rendered in exotic skins like crocodile – are in fact quite strong and by some accounts, growing.Buying LongAccording to industry analysts – and fairly clear to most people with a passing interest in sociology and economics – the women buying these expensive, sometimes very expensive, bags are making very deliberate long-term investments. The very opposite of the “It Bag,” these classically shaped and handcrafted bags bespeak luxury and class, often without a hint of a logo or brand name. They will be in style for a very long time, if not indefinitely; and that is key. This kind of accessory buying is a clear signal that consumers, at least moneyed consumers, are eying their pocketbooks. The Wall Street Journal recently noted that wealthy consumers are still spending, but across the board are focusing more on classic and less ostentatious fashion.When things get rough out there, people tend to look inward and seek the comforts of the familiar and the traditional. Think of the home nesting boom that followed the brutal attacks of 9/11. By focusing on objects, places and styles that remind us of a safe and happy time, individually or collectively, we often find a common reference point at which to start again.
The classics do just that.Today, with the near collapse of the world’s financial markets we face a similar psychic trauma. The economic crisis currently whacking people’s savings accounts across the globe is also affecting how, when and if people shop. Since the liquidity of everyday folk like you and me is not what it was even a few days ago, the investments we make in clothing and accessories take on greater importance. No longer buying to pass the time, people are looking at each purchase and asking about its long term staying power.Back to the ClassicsFor example, if tomorrow I were to walk into the local haberdashery, which do you think I would go for: an of the moment skinny suit, skinny tie and schoolboy high-water trousers, or a more timeless cut that will carry me through a few years in style?
Put another way, in times of crisis we look to solid and trustworthy archetypes. After mixed results, institutions like law firms and financial services companies were some of the first to pull back on casual workday attire and the current crisis in confidence has the trend toward professional workplace dress accelerating.When things are shaky in the world, the people handling our legal and financial security can’t just be competent, they better look competent too. We want to be reassured and comfortable with those who are supposed to serve or look after us – we need to see it.
In the simplest of terms, we want a suit. We want a briefcase and legal pad, a nice tie and polished shoes. These are the comforting images of stability, professionalism and classic, timeless style.I suspect that we will be seeing a broader trend toward traditional work attire. It began about two years ago with the over-the-top preppy look driven by strong mid-market brands like J. Crew. That trend drew on the traditional New England seaside lifestyle, amped up with color and repp stripes as far as the eye could see.Over the past few seasons, that trend has mellowed a bit and grown up, bringing with it more refined yet comfortable versions of traditional classics. Because classic styles and colors have the kind of staying power which can outlast most recessions, it is to those influences we turn when financial instability makes us reconsider the difference between “needs” and “wants.”Retailers at every price point have indicated that menswear – meaning classic clothing with a capital “C” – will be a focal point for the coming seasons. Three piece suits – both gravitas inducing and functionally versatile – are starting to show up again. The blue blazer is getting a fresh round of appreciation as the go-to workhorse of many a wardrobe.
Basics, Basics, BasicsSo, what does all this mean to you? I think, like the real estate mantra “location, location, location,” that the menswear mantra should be “basics, basics, basics.” Take the time and effort to build up the basics of a long-term wardrobe and it will pay you dividends.
The Grey Suit (in this case, Zegna)
So, before you rush off and drop a few weeks' pay for some fancy Canali peak lapelled mauve and blue windowpane suit, make sure you already have at least one go-anywhere single breasted, two-button, notched lapel, medium grey suit in a nice three season weight – 120s is good. That suit will take you from first interview to cocktail hour with the CEO and back again.And the rule of investing applies here too: always buy the best you can afford. Good clothing is an investment and should be treated as such. Continuing with the financial metaphor, the next step is asset allocation.
In addition to your core grey suit, get yourself a good stock of basic button down collar shirts in white and blue, maybe a pink one. The button down collar brings the shirt’s formality down just enough to allow it to work well with a suit or a blazer, tie or no tie.Pinpoint dress shirts with barrel cuffs and point collars are a good choice too, though they are best suited for more formal outfits. Get a couple of French cuff shirts as a dressy option. Tailored khakis will cover most light business casual situations and a good pair of trim grey flannels will probably wear out before they are ever out of style.Buying the best you can afford is never truer than when speaking about footwear. Good shoes will last you years, decades even. While there are several excellent style options when it comes to dress shoes, cap toes are a safe first choice. Formal enough for a suit when a heavier soled design is chosen, they can work equally as well with tailored separates. As an added benefit, black cap toes can be buffed to a high gloss and be paired with a dinner jacket. Add some wingtips, loafers and a pair of casual leather lug soled shoes to the closet and you have most of your footwear bases covered.
Cap Toe Oxford (Alden)See what I mean? Basics; but basics that are well chosen, pull multiple duty and are of the best quality you can afford. With these essentials in your wardrobe you can ride out the swings of fortune secure in the knowledge that at least you will always be well turned out.Having the classics taken care of also allows you the flexibility to play a bit with interesting ties or alternative shirts, unique cuff links, fancy socks or funky pocket squares. By investing in quality core clothing – and by no means was this an exhaustive list – you are building a stable base from which you can launch the occasional foray into trends and new styles while never losing your ability to show up looking sharp.
I am a little behind the curve on this one, but I jut saw the preview for a fascinating documentary on Ralph Lauren's vintage automobile collection: "The Ralph Lauren Car Collection: Speed, Style & Beauty." Considered to be one of the finest of it's kind in the world, this collection encompasses many marque' names - Porsche, Ferrari, Mercedes, Bugatti - but the quality and stylistic breadth of the cars is staggering. Restored to a level that in some cases exceeds their original showroom quality, his cars track the development of the automobile not only as transportation, but as art and social elegance.
The documentary, aired by the Discovery Channel this past Saturday, is an hour-long exploration of the collection, how it came to be, the development of the stunning companion book, and how his cars have affected Ralph Lauren the designer. In full disclosure, my wife works for the Discovery Channel.
With his company celebrating its 40th anniversary, Lauren the visionary and collector is also highlighted in the current issues of Men's Vogue, Fortune, and Town and Country. Personally, I find his passion for style and the elegance of functional tools to be major factors in my appreciation for what Ralph Lauren has created. It's remarkable really that it has only been 40 years since Ralph forced his way into the fashion scene.
Ralph Lauren's impact on almost every aspect of the business of fashion, from the store-within-a-store concept to aspirational lifestyle marketing, has transformed how people across the world want to live. His British-landed-gentry cum New-England-Old-money vision of life has always focused on quality and detail. Whether it's handmade crocodile loafers or a Purple Label cashmere suit, there are no shortcuts. Even when turning an actual New York City mansion into his own gentrified universe, Lauren's vision is tactile. You want to live there.
Another legendary collection of Lauren's pulls at my soul: his assemblage of watches which range from vintage Rolexes to a one-of-a-kind collection within a collection of Panerai Italian military watches which are quite popular among high-end collectors at the moment. Watches in particular are intensely personal items that convey to others your true sense of individual style. A collection like Lauren's is in many ways a mirror of his personality and, as far I know, accurately reflects his obsession with quality, style, detail, and history.
Worth noting here is that this past March Ralph Lauren and the Richemont Group, owners of such luxury brands as Jaeger-LeCoultre, Mont Blanc, IWC, and Alfred Dunhill, inked a deal to create The Polo Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Company. The 50/50 joint venture will design, manufacture, and distribute products through Polo boutiques and exclusive high-end jewelry stores. It seems that Mr. Lauren is ready to add his own creations to his personal museum.
By creating these fascinating collections, Lauren is becoming a curator of historic touchstones that define luxury and elegance. While some may see this an homage to conspicuous consumption or a celebration of indulgent decadence, I look at it very differently. Watches and cars, clothes and shoes, bags and furniture; these are the things that people use to define and identify themselves. Ralph Lauren is consciously preserving the history of practical elegance. All of these objects evoke a visceral response and people use them to create their own persona and personal history. He uses his own collections for personal and professional inspiration; think of them as a database of style.
Look around your own life; your home, your closet, your dresser, and your briefcase. What can you say is unique and important to you? For example, if you have a mug full of pens on you desk but only one of two vintage roller balls mean something to you, get rid of the others. Don't hold on to stuff just because you have it; be discriminating and really use what you keep.
While we all do not have his financial resources, take a page from Ralph's playbook and don't just accept what you can get, don't keep what happens to be around just because it's there. Rather, select the things in your life; constantly edit. Create your own personal collections; you will find more value, financial and personal, in fewer but cherished possessions.
Being called stylish can mean so many things. You dress well; you’ve got a nice haircut, cool bag, nice car, impressive art collection. Even how you walk down the street can be stylish – look at John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever. Then there’s the kind of stylish that transcends the mere suit or fancy watch; being smart. Smart is very stylish.
Now, I’m not talking about book smart or theoretical physicist smart. To me, smart is being curious about the world around you and seeking out different points of view; these things make you an interesting person. Good looks will only get you so far; to be a truly stylish person you need to be able to carry a conversation, know something about the world, be up on current events, appreciate art and music and be able to actually communicate your thoughts. You don’t have to be an expert on all this, but you should be aware and have an informed opinion. Some people, like the brilliant writer Tom Wolfe, are both very smart and very stylish. One reason he can carry off his trademark white suit is because his intellect is equally sharp. It's not merely a prop, it's a physical extension of Wolfe's wit, humor, and razor sharp intellect.
Turning yourself in into a socially interesting person is not as difficult as you might imagine. Take an inventory of the things that already interest you - style, politics, business, design, philosophy, economics, or history – whatever they may be. Then, every day, make a point of learning a little something from each of those areas. This is not a test, you don’t have to recall everything verbatim, just keep the information handy. Be aware of news stories too; get a daily paper and skim through the various sections. Have conversations about what’s going on in the world or just your own office.
Being aware of different industries also pays off when your interests cross paths. For example, among other things I’m interested in style, politics, business and global events. I have also been following Ralph Lauren’s company for years and, having worked at two of his stores, am particularly fascinated by his ability to target specific markets.
Over time, I have read a few books about him, clipped newspaper and magazine articles on his approach to business and ordered the company’s annual reports – nice enough to go in the bookcase by the way. As a result, I have learned about market segmentation, global menswear production, political issues facing the textile industry, and how cultural expectations affect product development. Not only do I have a greater understanding of the business of fashion, I also have a lot to talk about at a cocktail party.
Apart from the excellent advice found here at OffTheCuffDC.com, there is another resource to which you can turn for a quick shot of sartorial, cultural, social, and political information from around the world. Monocle, a totally unique print magazine and interactive website which launched last March, is my pick for best international style magazine. The current issue covers such interesting topics as how to properly brand an entire country, finding a bank to house your private art collection, current trends in automotive design, and topical updates from across five continents ranging from Nicolas Sarkozy’s clothing choices to an interview with Tokyo’s feisty mayor. Stuffed throughout the magazine are numerous fashion reviews and style stories as well. The innovative layout, excellent writing, local perspectives and elegant photography make Monocle a must read.
So, as you work to perfect your wardrobe, choose a new pair of bespoke shoes or track down the perfect briefcase don’t forget to look around and learn something about the world. Becoming a better global citizen is about as stylish as you can get.
Off the Cuff is not a political site, though it is based about as close to Capitol Hill as you can get without actually working there. I also try to avoid discussion of social and cultural issues that can be misconstrued or misinterpreted.
That said I want to briefly talk about the bad rap that the term “elitist” is getting. It would appear that, according to certain disdainful politicians, I am an elitist and so I would like to defend myself.America has always celebrated the underdog – it is part of our national psyche. We appreciate hard work, determination and sacrifice. We relish our ability to overcome the randomness of one’s initial station in life and instead make of it what we wish. We loudly tout the honesty and satisfaction of a tough fight to the top of the heap over the soft gifts of heredity and privilege; that is of course until we are the beneficiaries of that heredity and privilege. Then it’s not such a bad thing.As a culture we admire the iconic all-American blue collar worker who earns an honest living and whose common sense usually works better then the annoying babble of out of touch politicians. We also temper that idealized middle-America image with an appreciation for the fruits of that hard work – financial success and advancement, education and intellectual growth.We tell our kids to value learning and to reach for the stars, to work toward something better while not forgetting where they come from. And always we hear the same mantra repeated across all socioeconomic classes: I want my kids to have it better than I did.And yet, what we are hearing now, in the midst of an historic presidential campaign, is an assault on that slice of the American Dream. Being smart and well educated is a bad thing. Achieving great success though hard work and dedication is negative. Appreciating different cultures, expanding one’s horizons and enjoying the finer things in life are all betrayals of the “real” America.Such is the frame in which Senator Barack Obama has been cast by many of his opponents. It would appear that he is an Ivy League, white wine sipping, arugula eating elitist. That is the new dirty word in American politics. If you are smart or refined, worldly or intellectual in any way, it would appear that you are an “elitist.” The tone often accompanying this pronouncement reminds me of when people were hit with labels like “commie” or “pinko.” It is meant as an insult; a sort of cultural betrayal.Senator Obama did go to Columbia University and Harvard Law School and he was president of the Harvard Law Review – three things, by the way, I would be quite proud to show off had I achieved any of them. He is handsome and photogenic, dresses well, can give one heck of a speech and is clearly an intellectual sort of guy, occasionally to his detriment. He also beat one of the most daunting political teams of our generation – the Clintons – to gain the nomination of the Democratic Party.And yet all of that hard work and sacrifice, all of that dedication is being chalked up to elitism in the most pejorative use of the word. Has he not done what we counsel children every day to do? Mr. Obama was not given any of these successes as gifts – he worked for them. But the question remains: does any of this make him an elitist? And what exactly is an elitist? And even if he is one, why is that bad?My mother once sent me a newspaper clipping titled, “In praise of social climbing.” She liked the fact that the author put that often-maligned practice into context. Social climbing is nothing more than networking with a purpose. It helps you succeed in a career, meet new people, take advantage of opportunities and just get out there in the world.That is how I view this elitist brouhaha: it’s a PR issue. Frame social networking (read: Facebook) in a bad light – call it social climbing – and today’s hottest trend is suddenly a cultural ill, a shallow act of crass opportunism. Take the genuinely impressive accomplishments of Mr. Obama’s life, in many ways the American Dream personified, and slap the label of elitist all over them and he is reduced to the caricature of an effete and out of touch snob.Regardless of your political leaning, that’s just wrong. In part because it sends our kids a mixed message, but mostly because it makes me look bad. I’m an elitist! I went to college and earned two master’s degrees – what a royal mistake that was. I like good wine and, obviously, well made clothes. Worse, I ponder such issues as global relations, the long term social impact of our acquisitive culture, and when I can afford a nice pair of handmade brogues.I should also point out the uncomfortable fact that you my cherished reader are also an elitist. You’re reading all this aren’t you? This is a clothing and lifestyle blog. We espouse the Preppy Handbook, debate English versus Italian suits and ponder the merits of flat front pants over pleated. Some of you probably like arugula too. And cricket.I have written on such arcane topics as merino wool trumping cashmere and the unlikely role of Ralph Lauren as an American historian. You have willingly debated with me which mechanical watches are the best. Yep – we are all über elitists.And what of it? This wonderful forum has grown into a global resource for almost 11,000 people every month. Readers from more countries than I can count stop by to learn something new, leave a comment or find an inspiration for a new outfit.
We question and challenge each other and each, hopefully, walk away with a new perspective on life. We celebrate craftsmanship and individual style because to us, each represents an expression of personal achievement. We are not happy being provincial and holding to a tunnel vision of the world.So, if all that makes me an elitist, I will proudly wear the label.
When one thinks about the centers of international style, Washington D.C., let alone the United States in general, does not jump to the top of most people's list. And while there are many men who travel internationally, shuttling from an important breakfast meeting in London to a vital lunch in Vienna, few really do it with true international style. Many look worn out and bedraggled in ill fitting suits, shoddy shoes, and anonymous ties. More and more however, "international style" is starting to make an impact in the daily lives of men everywhere. For those looking to find good examples of sharp dressing that spans the world, there are a few beacons of global elegance who wordlessly preach the gospel of great style.
Diplomatic dash
On the cover of the current issue of Men’s Vogue, former British Prime Minister Tony Blair stands comfortably alert, eye to eye with the reader in what could be called his second skin: pale blue textured shirt, red woven tie with a discrete dotted pattern, and dark suit pants. Blair’s outfit is a good example of classic international style. Though simple, his ensemble is universally accepted as authoritative and tasteful. Superior fabric quality and skilled tailoring further make such apparent plainness markedly influential. Though your days are probably not filled with international crises or crafting a national economic policy, it never hurts to dress as though you are. Mr. Blair’s outfit could be called the global diplomat’s uniform. It is elegant but disarming, powerfully masculine yet ubiquitous in an everyman sort of way.
The same can be said of Kofi Annan, former Secretary General of the United Nations. If ever there was a perpetually elegant politician, it is he. One can imagine Mr. Annan shrink wrapped into his bespoke duds each night, only to emerge the next day with nary a wrinkle. When asked once about his sartorial leanings, Mr. Annan explained that as the global face of the United Nations, he always had to be seen as a calming and reasonable head of state. That meant he always had to be dressed as though he was about to step out and address the world at any given minute, because he very well might.
No matter where in the world he went, the Secretary General was, in a word, dashing. As any global traveler can tell you, such a feat is very difficult. Annan succeeds at this task by keeping things simple; traditional and reserved suits, simple but elegant shirt and tie combinations, and always presenting himself as a global figure. This last point is important because rather than just about choosing clothes, it is about choosing how you want the world to see you.
Suits on a plane
The Wall Street Journal recently had an interesting profile of Thomas Barrack, Jr., CEO of Colony Capital, who takes a customized approach to dressing internationally. The article describes his methodical and rather complex philosophy for turning out appropriately anywhere in the world. It involves multiple closets in several properties scattered across the globe. And a corporate jet with its own separate wardrobe.
While most of us do not have such vast logistical resources at hand, we can still take away some important information from Mr. Barrack’s strategy. He pays close attention to where he is going and focuses on the details of that particular culture. Though he keeps customized wardrobes in his many home bases for fool proof sartorial appropriateness, he does not try and pass himself off as a local. Rather, Mr. Barrack makes an effort to be compatible in whatever culture he finds himself. The interview notes, for example that pocket squares are fine in London but not really right for New York. When in Italy, he wears his scarf by passing its end through the loop, but in the states, it’s over under. Single or double vent? It depends, but regardless the jacket never comes off during a negotiation. In true CEO fashion, he favors Hermes and Ferragamo ties for their universal, yet subtle message of power and hideously expensive bespoke footwear. Lucky him.
Bringing it home
In men’s closets across the United States, wardrobes are finally starting to express a more international flair. Stylistic influences like Daniel Craig’s Brioni-clad James Bond and an influx of British premium clothing brands like Thomas Pink and Charles Tyrwhitt have brought a double cuffed attitude to the attention of button downed American men. The sport jacket has emerged as a new wardrobe staple, no little thanks to style-of-the-minute powerhouse H & M, at which I recently picked up a lovely double vented linen model with angled hacking style pockets for a mere $50 USD.
So, while many American men are a little gun shy of standing out too much, the proliferation of checked shirts, fitted double vent jackets and cuff links show that definite changes are indeed in the air. I think it is safe to say that, while the world is becoming smaller, it is also starting to dress itself a little better too.
This is a true story: Back when he was running for president in 1980, George H. W. Bush (that’s George senior) was giving a speech at his alma mater, Yale University, and being heckled by some students. Someone yelled out that Bush was just another out of touch “Brooks Brothers Republican.” The president, apparently offended by that particular remark, promptly opened his suit coat to reveal its J. Press label.
I’ve always liked that story because it shows the deep dedication that some cultures naturally create. J. Press has that kind of culture. It is the quintessential New England prep-Yale Man-old money-Ivy League brand that the J. Crews and Ralph Laurens of the world want you to think they are. Not that there is anything wrong with either of those brands, I’m a fan of both. But J. Press is special because that’s where it all started. It’s the real deal.
New Haven Store at ChristmasThough not as well known commercially as Brooks Brothers – there are four brick and mortar J. Press stores to Brooks’ nearly 200 – J. Press is as classically preppy as you can get. In fact it quite literally invented the look. From the 1930s through the’50s, Press helped to cement the image of American preppy in the minds of college students everywhere. Known as the “Yale” or “Ivy League” look, it came to define the stylish New England intellectual or at least moneyed, layer of society that was the ruling class of the time. A hybrid of English prep school uniform and traditional American wear, the preppy look is timeless.
Jacobi Press in his New Haven StoreFounded in 1902 by Jacobi Press, in my hometown of New Haven, Connecticut, his namesake company has always adhered to a traditional some would say conservative, design philosophy. Much of their clothing is still American made and most of the shirts, ties, jackets and trousers are quite indistinguishable from from your father's wardrobe. Mr. Press would probably feel right at home were he to walk into one of his stores today. In fact, the New Haven flagship has never moved from its original location.
Sartorial innovations like the sack suit and natural shoulder were invented here. The trademark three-button suit coat with the rolled lapel that visually converts it to a two-button is also a Press innovation. The sack suit itself, given global branding by Jack Kennedy as the definitive American suit, is also credited to J. Press.
Another Press signature is the lack of pleated trousers. All J. Press suits have flat front pants and always have; it’s the kind of consistency and tradition that make the company such an icon among its customers, generation after generation. Where Brooks Brothers’ shirts are famously voluminous, Press shirts are more trim and discreet. Their shirts also have, should you choose the option, a distinctive flapped pocket. that's a little too quirky for me so I stick with the open pocket.But don’t mistake that tradition and adherence to New England stylistic values for old-fashion stodginess. Though clearly smaller when compared to Brooks Brothers, Paul Stuart or even Joseph A. Bank (once colloquially known as the poor man's Brook Brothers), J. Press is a global player and major style influencer on the Trad front. To see just how popular and relevant J. Press is to the fashion world – at least for the true preppy market – you need to go a little ways past New Haven, all the way to Japan.
J. Press is huge in Japan. In 1974, the Press family sold the rights to license J. Press in Japan; becoming in fact the first American brand to be licensed in that country. To many a Japanese professional, the sartorial standard by which business and traditional dress is measured is J. Press. In fact, the company is today a wholly owned subsidiary of its Japanese parent, Onward Kashiyama Co., Ltd. Onward Kashiyama realized almost immediately that to preserve J. Press’ Ivy League cachet, it needed to stay out of the way. And that it has done. Walk into any Press store today and it feels like the company never expanded past the boundaries of Yale, Harvard or the other Ivy's. Sure, the recently opened Madison Avenue store has a fresher, deco feel to it, but you still know it's J. Press.
That is the magic of this unique and cherished brand; it knows what it is, who its customers are and what they value. You cannot simply buy that kind of loyaly or respect through advertising or tarted-up branding. It's earned. J. Press has maintained its preppy core values and remains the truest expression of traditional New England Style. What else would you expect?
Though I have not written about it too much, I am a very customer service focused person. Having spent years in high-end retail and now the association business, I know from good customer service.
