Jeans. For some people they symbolize lazy weekends; perhaps paired with your favorite old tee shirt and beat up sneakers. Perfect for washing the car or walking the dog. For others they connote urban hip; the ultimate counter play to formal office wear.
Ralph Lauren once made news when he wore jeans with his dinner jacket to receive a major award. Far from being social faux pas though, it was instantly understood to be a very “Ralph Lauren” look and launched a thousand failed imitators. What he made look sharp and fashionable most people simply butcher.Jeans can be dressed up, but never make the mistake of thinking they can replace dress trousers, suit pants or, god forbid, tuxedo pants. People in the fashion business can get away with such things because they are in the fashion business and to their peers this is messing with the vernacular in a creative sort of way. Everyone else, myself included, should tread lightly when it comes to bringing jeans into the office.
Still, it is possible to dress up jeans for work, a nice dinner, or cocktail party. Just focus on some key rules.You should own at least one pair of dark blue jeans; they are timeless and the most versatile type you can own. Dark blue jeans can be dressed up with a collared shirt, sports coat and brogues, or dressed down with a tee shirt, cashmere crew neck sweater and moccasins.
Remember this: even though they are just jeans, they should still fit you. I read a very funny article recently about “dad jeans,” which highlighted the sad fact that over the years most guys fail to buy new jeans and instead perpetrate a self-delusional myth that their favorites will always fit. They don’t; and while the jeans may stay in top form, you dear reader will probably not and it will show.Although there are all sorts of fits and cuts, the best bet is still a basic strait leg version. It should sit at your natural hip and have a nice moderate break over your shoes. Alternately, you can wear them rolled up a bit for a preppy take or tailored to exactly hit the top of your shoe. Whatever your choice, they should look comfortable and trim but not tight; certainly not baggy and low-hanging. As with most things in life, simple is often better.
Dark jeans in particular lend themselves to more dressed-up outfits. They can carry off dressy casual better than their stonewashed or “vintage” brethren because of their inherent sophistication. In most outfits a good pair of dark blue jeans provides great texture and personality. Of course, if you want a laid back casual preppy look, most distressed and faded styles work fine as long as you stick with well-fitting strait leg models.
For the winter months, try pairing your jeans with a high quality dress shirt and sport coat – tweed or corduroy look great. Throw a vest in between to add some warmth as well as style. Trim jeans can carry off dress shoes particularly well. The juxtaposition of elegant leather footwear and rugged denim is very attractive.
For a more outdoorsy look, swap out the fine footwear for classic L.L. Bean Maine hunting boots. As noted above, jeans and sweaters are always a great mix.By approaching a good pair of jeans as a part of your wardrobe and not just something thrown in the corner, you will get more out of this versatile workhorse.
I recently talked about the of v-neck sweaters, one of your cold weather wardrobe’s most versatile tools. It is, however, not the only option when it comes to lightweight or mid-weight sweaters. The other option is of course the standard against which all sweaters are measured – the crewneck sweater.The crewneck sweater is a classic staple of men’s wardrobes everywhere. Based on the most basic of stylistic designs, this woven outer shirt is about as strait forward as a garment can be. And to me that is its enduring benefit; it can work with almost any outfit and easily be paired with jeans or grey flannels.
A good crewneck should have a lightly fitted body and trim arms, but not too tight. The hem of the sweater should sit at your waist with room to allow for sitting, stretching etc., but should not blouse over the ribbed bottom. This effect is unattractive on anyone and gives the impression that either you don’t know you own size (legitimately, a common and unfortunate problem for many guys) or that borrowed someone else’s sweater. Neither impression is a positive one.The sweater should fit comfortably over an oxford shirt yet still allow for easy movement while maintaining a close fit. I like my sweater’s arms to either run a touch long so that I can turn back a good amount of cuff or end right at the wrist and allow some shirt sleeve to show. Anything in between tends to look out of proportion on me.
Modern fit (Zanone)The neck is an area that merits additional attention. Some makers have neck lines that appear designed to strangle anyone foolish enough to stick their head through, while others seem to feel that wide gaping holes are somehow attractive. The ideal is a neck that allows the collar of your shirt to sit comfortably within, while the sweater itself offers a clean, firm neck hole that won’t easily lose its shape.
A good neckRegarding fabrics, lamb’s wool is a solid standby and tends to be the most affordable of classic sweater materials. It is light and warm but rough enough to avoid being particularly formal. Merino wool is an excellent material and many of my favorite sweaters are made of merino. But by almost anyone’s standard, cashmere is really the gold standard. One- or two-ply is more than enough for the average office dweller. Three-ply cashmere sweaters are often hawked this time of year, but don’t fall for it. Pictures of handsome people frolicking in snowy New England winters do no good while you are sweating up a storm in your climate controlled office building – every day.
J. Press (t) & J. Crew (b)When it comes to looks and construction, there are many different styles of crewnecks; from simple to elaborate, paper thin to bomb proof. After much thought, I have concluded that there are only two really useful styles: flat knit and cabled in solid colors.A few years ago, during an after-Christmas sale, I came across a beautiful, chunky lamb’s wool Irish fisherman style sweater. It was a steal and I bought it. It didn’t take me long to realize that I couldn’t wear the thing anywhere except outside on a cold day. It weighed a ton and trapped too much heat. The upshot? Unless you actually are an Irish fisherman or really do work outside, give this heavy style a pass.A mid- or lightweight cabled sweater is a much better choice and is simply more usable. You can find them in every color under the sun; from preppy primaries to English heathers. Classics brands like Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Ralph Lauren and J. Crew offer a wide variety of this timeless model and each maker has its own take on the classic shape. Where Brooks’ might run a little roomy, like its oxfords, J. Crew is likely more fitted.
The same goes for flat knit sweaters. These seamless, modern versions can give you a more modern look while still hewing to a traditional silhouette. Like the cabled crewneck, they are incredibly versatile and mix well with different materials. Flat knits in particular are good to have around because, if you want to go with a more casual look, they can also act as a grownup sweatshirt – relaxed but not sloppy.
Sweatshirt alternative (Banana Republic)
Younger designers focused on the resurgence of American Ivy League style are just as enamored with crewnecks. Michael Bastian makes a great version and Zanone, part of Italian brand Incotex, makes the washed cashmere version in the top image.
Michael Bastian's (l) take on preppy
Crewnecks also adapt well to layering, though don’t work as well as a v-neck if you want to sport a tie underneath. Like most pieces of classic preppy clothing, crewneck sweaters are a smart investment that will be in style long after their better days are behind them. But, that’s the charm of classic clothes: they get better with age.
This past summer, an interesting article appeared in the International Herald Tribune about how employees at Eni, Italy’s largest power company, agreed to shed their ties and cut back on air conditioning in an effort to help fight global warming.
The company’s Rome and Milan offices began a tentative experiment in what it called, “lighter and cooler office attire.” It was by all accounts a success, though employees made it very clear that expected to return to proper clothing as the weather cooled into autumn.
Italians ditching their ties, are you kidding? Those often fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for an entire summer? Well, if nothing else, you can bet the loss of a mere tie did not send office standards into a sartorial tailspin as it has in too many offices across America. Tie or no tie, Italians have standards.
This article, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, is actually an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. In fact, it is a great teaching moment: focusing on style actually helps the environment – as it should.
Put simply, when you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is also well thought out. When you consciously consider what to buy and carefully edit your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that will just wind up in a landfill by the end of the year.
Everyday clothing is now relatively cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of sourcing, manufacturing, packaging, transporting, storing, selling, and eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.
As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage space, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.
Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are all factors you should consider when making any purchase.
Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that you will just throw out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While more expensive than off-the-rack, a well made custom suit will last for years. A classic cut can transcend fashion and a good tailor can make adjustments as your dimensions change over time.
By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste and duplication. Which brings me back to the Italians; I have no fear of track pants and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milan. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe for any weather, it is an Italian.
With the election over and a second round of history ready to made next month, Washington, D.C., is preparing for the mother of all inaugurations. With an estimated influx of five million revelers, this town is really going to be hopping. As you might expect, inaugurations are a big deal here and this one is shaping up to the biggest ever.
In a nod to the troubled economy President Elect Obama has scaled back the traditional plethora of inaugural galas, but the fact remains that the incoming first family is very much channeling the "vigah" of the John F. Kennedys. They are the new mirror thought which we all view what "America" is to now mean around the world - the president especially.
And with menswear showing itself as the bright spot of this holiday shopping season it should come as no surprise that folks are wondering, "what, or who, will the president be wearing"? (perhaps Richard James, left)The newly launched WWDMEN'S (formally DNR) asked several leading menswear designers to come up with their idea of the perfect inaugural outfit and a little something for the evening's balls. Below is a selection of my personal favorites. For the full sideshow, visit WWDMEN'S.
Classic Brooks Brothers
A streamlined look from Nautica
Elegant lines from Brioni
Retro watercolor look from Thom Browne
Lounge cool from Tim Hamilton
Day and evening looks from Zegna
Channeling P. Diddy on the town, from Sean John
The perfect dinner jacket from Farragamo
Over on The Sartorialist, I just posted a comment for his contest on the influences of style. I was a little surprised about what popped into my head right away, but I went ahead and posted it because it's the truth. Since the most interesting events in life tend to be the sources of who we are, I thought you might appreciate this little story. And my dad is still very much the natty dresser.The most powerful influence on my personal style goes back to one person, my father.
While there have been many other influences, from magazines and movies to several stints working at Polo/Ralph Lauren stores, it always comes down to him. My father has a timeless sense of taste and a respect for quality. He is, at heart, a J. Press man who over the years loosened up and expanded to Brooks Brothers. That being said he always looked comfortable and stylish without being stuffy or off-putting. To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy, which is very important since he is doctor. While he is a conservative dresser, my dad is by no means a sartorial wallflower. From white tie, tails and top hat for an annual dinner dance to creamy flannels, blue blazer, and a panama for a summer’s concert under the stars, he most certainly exemplifies personal style.
If any one event cemented my love for clothing and the power it has, it was when I saw him at work but he didn’t know I was there. I was with a friend who worked in the hospital’s emergency room and we stopped there so he could drop something off. While I stood in a corner and watched the commotion, I saw my dad come around the corner wearing a seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty. In the emergency room no less! What will forever stay in my heart and mind though is what happened next. He walked over to a man lying on a gurney parked along the wall, gently leaned over him and began to talk. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my father’s patient relax. At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help his patient. The style on the outside matched the man on the inside. More than any magazine or movie star, that image will always be my definition of true style.
In this column, I decided to forego the traditional “best gift” or “best men’s stores” schtick. Besides, you’ll be seeing that “best whatever” type of thing all over the place and while these lists can be entertaining, for the most part they just encourage you to buy more stuff you don’t need. Rather, we’re going to talk about the little icons of personal style, watches, pens, and cufflinks – those personal accessories that most truly reflect who we are.
When I think of details making a difference, I always remember a particular college professor I had. He was a young guy with tons of style in that moody, intellectual way. Every day, he came in wearing some great outfit and he had this perfect bag that looked like one of those beat-up dispatch cases you always see in the movies but can’t actually find anywhere. Inside he carried antique pens in a double pen case, these great European notebooks, journals and all sorts of other interesting stuff. That guy had style because he paid attention to the details. And, of course, the girls loved him. He knew that his carefully chosen accessories spoke volumes about who he was before he even opened his mouth.
Luxury watchmaker Patek Philippe's classic ad campaign, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation,” is a favorite of mine for a couple of reasons. First, the message behind the ad is that certain things in your life, truly personal objects that have meaning beyond their mere function, should never be disposable. Second, because of their very nature, these types of personal tools and accessories are often expensive. For those of you familiar with Patek Philippe, you know that’s a major understatement.
These small, seemingly innocuous things are far more defining than we give them credit for. Literally speaking, they are valuable because they cost us something. In an emotional sense they are valuable because they’re cherished.
Now, I happen to like nice pens. When using a fountain pen, I feel like I am composing a letter, rather than just writing out some words. Pens from makers like Mont Blanc, Omas, Parker or Pelikan aren’t just writing tools, they are an expression of style and personality. Fountain pens in particular are favorites of collectors, executives and those who simply don’t want to forget the purest form of communication – ink on paper. Yes, using a fountain pen takes more effort than typing on a keyboard, but therein lies its charm. There are several excellent pen shops in the DC area, including Fahrney’s, which has served the nation's capital since 1929.
While to some a shirt is just a shirt, many American men are finally coming to appreciate the distinctive swagger of a French cuffed, spread collar creation from Thomas Pink or Charles Tyrwhitt. If you’re making the switch, you’ll need cuff links. For men, this is an opportunity to show some real personality. From simple silk knots to literal works of art in precious metals, you’ll always want to add more to your collection. A great pair of cufflinks can be found in almost all price ranges, from presidential seal inspired eagles at the White House Gift shop ($30) to beautiful gold and enamel handmade creations at Tiffany & Co. ($2,000). Looking for something imaginative? Take New York City mayor Michael Bloomberg’s route and go for recycled subway tokens.
The piece of jewelry most every man does wear is a watch. And right now, watches are big. Literally. If you look at almost any magazine or celebrity’s wrist, chunky, glitzy watches are de rigeur. Some, like Franck Muller’s fantastic timepieces, can cost the same as a pair of Mercedes. The aforementioned Patek Philippe watches are so sought after by collectors, they have their own secondary auction market. For the rest of us, there are plenty of excellent options. A good watch should be viewed as an investment, so save up and get something that will stand the test of style and time. A truly timeless Cartier Tank watch can run you around $6,000 but will still be classy well into the next generation. On the other hand, Raymond Weil’s Parsifal watch is a substantial and elegant alternative and at $1,100, will cost you a bit less.
Let me pause here for a moment to comment on something that seems to confuse some guys. As a general rule, sports watches don’t belong with suits. Yes, politicians on the campaign trail often sport a Timex Ironman to remind us that they’re just regular folks too. But unless you’re kissing babies for votes, or actually running a triathlon, leave it in the drawer for the weekend. Remember, just like anything else your watch should fit what you’re wearing.
When you are pickier about the personal items in your life, they take on more meaning. Something else happens too. You wind up with less stuff floating around, but the stuff you do have means something more to you. That’s the important part.
With cooler weather firmly planting itself across the globe's Northern hemisphere, it’s time to break out the warm weather clothes. Even those of us who work in cozy climate controlled offices are feeling the need to layer.
One of the most versatile pieces of clothing that should be in your winter wardrobe is a fine gauge v-neck sweater. Just like having a pair of classic dark washed jeans that can take you from office casual to drinks at the Ritz, a classic v-neck sweater will cover a lot of bases without overdoing it.
Now, I’m not talking about a chunky ski sweater or that shapeless holdover used for yard work. You should look on this sweater as alternative dress clothing; something lightweight, lightly fitted and soft.
Cashmere is the best choice of course, but depending on quality and brand name, it can be very expensive. And don’t bother with double and triple thick cashmere unless you are spending lots of time outdoors. Most of us are wearing these indoors at work or home and the extra thickness will only make you extra warm. If price is an issue, merino wool is as an alternative to cashmere. Look for tightly knit fabric that is soft to the touch and has a comfortable fit.
Stick with solids at first – grey, brown, navy blue, and black. Once you have the basics in place, add an argyle for that college professor look. Indeed, this season there is a fair amount of variety when it comes to knits and texture and you can add some flair to your wardrobe with cables, heathers, and rough-weaves. Classics like crew necks, sweater vests and cardigans are all in style this season as well, so make sure to check out of your options.
Fair Isle in earth tones
The v-neck sweater is a timeless piece that, when chosen carefully, can be happily used for years. Several seasons back a deeper “v” was favored, while these days a higher neck line is preferred. Generally speaking, I like the “v” to fall about two inches (roughly 5 cm) from the neck line as it provides room for a shirt collar to spread out while at the same time still containing it.
Argyle casual
A little more modern
Wear it over a tee shirt with those dressy jeans and you’re pulling off George Clooney-like cool. For a classic preppy look, throw it over an oxford and head off to a lunch meeting. If you are having dinner at a nice place but a jacket is still too formal, reach for your v-neck as the perfect compromise. Regardless, you’re good to go with this classically flexible layer.
Unless you have to wear a suit every day, khaki pants are probably the real backbone of your work wardrobe. From formally tailored to comfortably slouchy, they go with almost anything, can be dressed up or down, and travel well.
Choosing the right pair at the right time is important, or you’ll quickly wind up looking like a chain restaurant waiter.
You’re all grown up now and you need some grown up khakis too. Generally speaking, “khakis” encompass a broad range of pants that fall into a category that traces it’s lineage to military trousers from the 1940s. American soldiers brought home these beloved and functional pants and crated a trend that culminated in the classic “Ivy League” look.
Your own goal with these endlessly versatile pants should be to look dressed up but still comfortably relaxed. Make sure they are reasonably trim and stay away from pleats. While they are starting to make a comeback for suit pants, the heavier cotton fabric of most khakis will cause the pleats bulge out and visually add weight and bulk to your midsection.
Flat front khakis will give you a leaner silhouette and also tend to look more dressy. You should look for a mid rise (meaning the crotch doesn’t hang down by your knees) and a natural waist (meaning the pants sit on your natural hips). Choose a classic strait leg and allow for a nice break that can work with heavy oxfords or casual boat shoes. For a cleaner, modern look, tailor the pants without a break – just make sure you’ll always want that style, because there is no going back.
In many ways, khakis are the all-purpose chameleons of your daily wardrobe. They can impart both the rumpled comfort of puttering around the library in search of that elusive book on how to grow, say, marigolds and the freshly pressed crispness of heading off to the office on a brisk fall day, tweed jacket in tow.
While you typically want to keep to the classic fit described above, it makes sense to have both tailored and less constructed versions in the closet. Seasonality plays a role as well; lighter weight 5.6 ounce fabric are best for warm months just as classic 8.5 ounce pants can be pulled out for the fall and winter.
Khakis are one of the few clothing categories where I condone the “more is better” philosophy. Try to round out your wardrobe with different shades as well as styles; from light putty to deep British tan. Olive is a useful color as well. For the adventurous types who really love the classics, get yourself a pair of Nantucket Reds. While many brands may copy them, Murray’s Toggery Shop on the island itself is the original source.
While I generally don’t recommend specific brands, for the true American chino you have to check out what GQ magazine has called the “pants of the gods” - Bill’s Khakis. Go for the M2 model, around US $98. These pants are directly modeled after vintage World War II GI khakis and are built like Sherman tanks. They are about as authentic as you can get.
Check out this great BNET feature on dressing for work. It is broken down into four subsections that cover the basics of business dress, 10 easy ways to upgrade your look, how to buy a custom-made suit, a short video on dressing for business success.
As a sidebar, the section on ordering a custom-made suit was penned by Christian Chensvold, founder of the blogs Dadyism and Ivy Style. Therefore, you can rest assured that it is both entertaining and highly informative.
Vests are back in fashion and I for one am very happy about this overdue trend. A dozen years ago, I bought a wonderful waistcoat in Dublin. It was a classic Irish country tweed; colorful but not overdone, elegant but not at all dandified. It was a real classic and had a timeless cut. I love it now just as much as I loved it then.
Vests have a particularly special relationship with their owners. Cut close to the body and one of the more expressive of garments, they are certainly well known but not entirely understood. Relegated in the mind’s eye to restaurant waiters and country farmers on BBC television shows, most people not sure what to do them and are secretly intimidated by the vest.
This time of year the vests one often sees are the seasonal monstrosities that get trotted out for office Christmas parties: bright red with neon green reindeer all over. Horrible. If you do want to use your vest as an example of holiday visual interest, try a nice tartan.
In reality, vests are a versatile alternative for those times when you want an extra layer of clothing but a sweater is a bit too much. They are also a great way to show your individual style. For some guys, a vest takes a little guts to wear, but don’t be afraid to stand out and get noticed.
A vest can give you a vintage look and most have pockets for loose change or keys. Add a pocket watch for that extra sharp look. If you actually have a family watch, that’s wonderful; if not, go out and buy a nice vintage one and start your own family tradition. Regardless, make sure it actually works because people will go out of their way to ask you the time. Vests have that effect.
Vests, of course, come in different shapes and sizes. From casual sweater vests to rugged hunting versions, to three piece suit orphans. There is something for every occasion and function. According to a recent Wall Street Journal story, more men are investigating three piece suits. Last seen on the fashion radar somewhere in the 1980s, today's three piece suit is a far cry from that unappealing, boxy contraption.
Modern versions are more in line with the Golden Era of the 1930s and ‘40s, when men made a point of choosing clothing that celebrated rather than concealed individual personality. In fact, it is not uncommon for a tailor’s client to now request additional festive or contrasting vests to fit certain occasions or to be worn separately.
As with any piece of clothing – though more so with vests – fit matters. In this case it means your vest should lie close to the body but not constrict movement like sitting and bending. It should also fit in the chest; no gaps around the arm holes and the front of the vest should completely cover your shirt and lay just over the waistband of your trousers.
This last rule is open to a little interpretation as the “shrunken suit” trend applies to vests as well. If you are in especially good shape, you can get away with your vest ending well above the pant line, providing a particularly jaunty, vintage look. If you are unsure that you can pull off this trend, don't even try.
When it comes to buttons of course, the bottom one is always undone per the stylish but portly King Edward VII. While his need to allow for a little extra room across the waist was functional, the rule of leaving a vest's bottom button undone is purely decorative.
Now that cooler weather is upon us, it’s time to break out the clothes we've been waiting all year to wear. In my opinion, men's clothing is at its finest when the weather turns chilly.
Tweeds and cashmere, woollens and heavy corduroy are what make a guy's wardrobe interesting and masculine. And the purpose-built DNA of men's cold weather clothing is what tends to make it so attractive.
Heavy canvas jackets with lots of pockets were used for hunting, chunky boots protected feet out in the field or trekking through mountainous terrain. According to tradition (though some dispute its veracity), the elaborate cabling of iconic Irish fisherman's sweaters actually served a purpose; albeit a somewhat grim one. Each pattern belonged to a family and if a loved one drowned in the rough North Atlantic seas, the unique design would aid in identifying the lost soul.
Well, not all sweaters perform such a dramatic job and the one I'll talk about today serves a much more prosaic (though equally important) set of functions: to keep you warm and make you look good.
One of the most versatile pieces of clothing that should be in every man's fall wardrobe is a fine gauge v-neck sweater; jumper to our European readers. Just like having a pair of classic dark washed jeans that can take you from the office casual to drinks at the Ritz, a classic v-neck sweater will cover a lot of bases without overdoing it.
Now, I’m not talking about a chunky ski sweater or that shapeless holdover used for yard work. This sweater should be considered the equivalent of dress clothing. You want something that is lightweight, lightly fitted, and soft. Cashmere is the best choice of course, but depending on quality and brand name, it can be very expensive.
A personal note: unless you plan to spend lots of time at fancy outdoor events where you can brag about how much your sweater costs, don't bother with double and triple thick cashmere. Most of us are wearing these indoors at work or home and the extra thickness will only make you extra warm.
As an alternative to cashmere, merino wool is an excellent fabric. Look for tightly knit fabric that is soft to the touch and a comfortable fit.
Stick with solids at first – grey, brown, navy blue, and black. Once you have the basics in place, add an argyle for that college professor look. Indeed, this season there is a fair amount of variety when it comes to knits and texture and you can add some flair to your wardrobe with cables, heathers, and rough-weaves. Crew necks, sweater vests, and cardigans are all in this season as well, so make sure to check out the many options.
The v-neck sweater is a timeless piece that, when chosen carefully, can be happily used for years. Several seasons back a deeper “v” was favored, while these days a higher neck line is preferred. Generally speaking, I like the “v” to fall about two inches (roughly 5 cm) from the neck line as it provides room for a shirt collar to spread out while at the same time still containing it.
Wear your sweater over a tee shirt with dressy jeans and you’re pulling off George Clooney-like cool. For a classic preppy look, throw it over an oxford and head off to a lunch meeting. If you are having dinner at a nice place but a jacket is still too formal, reach for your v-neck as the perfect compromise. Regardless, you’re good to go with this classically flexible layer.
Last year, I wrote about achieving what I broadly referred to as the “college professor” look. Grounded more in beloved stereotype than classroom fact; tweeds, corduroy, tortoise shell glasses and leather dispatch cases rounded out this idealized look.
While more inspiration than practical, this style embodies classic Ivy League charm and actually blends quite well with the current trend toward tailored clothing.Having so dispensed with the hypothetical, I felt suitably up to the challenge when one of my closest friends, a high school teacher, asked me to write a column on how he could upgrade his professorial wardrobe.
His everyday wardrobe is fairly casual; khakis, jeans, polo shirts and sweaters are staples. Though he’s never been a suit and tie kind of guy, Bob (let’s call him Bob) now wants to dress in a more professional manner. He runs the school’s large drama department and wants his wardrobe to reflect this level of responsibility.He wants to project authority and professionalism without looking overdone, and in this case a daily coat and tie is very overdone. He’s not a banker, he’s a teacher; but does not mean he isn’t a professional. Bob is very good at what he does and wants his appearance to project that ability and experience.What is needed here is an in-between look; professional but not stuffy, relaxed but still grown up. One of the quickest ways to do this is by focusing on fit and tailoring. You don’t have to give up your personal style to pull on a more polished look because you’re not changing who you are. But you do need to pay attention to how you translate your personal tastes into a more refined look.In Bob’s case, as with many guys stuck in a dressing-for-college-class mindset, that means making a few key changes. Often, the simplest things make the biggest impact. Ditch shapeless worn out khakis in favor of tailored pants and swap baggy, faded jeans for fitted dark washed ones instead. Rather than rely on sweatshirts, try pima cotton crewneck sweaters. It’s all about reinterpreting your outdated college-era wardrobe for the grown up you.For many men, navigating the waters of business wardrobes without the benefit of a business suit can be a little scary. Suits are easy and authoritative. But for someone in Bob’s situation, a suit makes no sense.In his case, odd jackets and blazers are the best solution. An odd jacket, be it corduroy, tweed, flannel or cotton, will provide the formality and authority of a suit coat but do in a comfortable and relaxed fashion.Odd jackets can also be paired with almost any kind of outfit and give it a polished, finished look. And these days a jacket does not automatically necessitate a tie. I love ties, I personally think they are a wonderful way to express personality and can tie (get it?…tie...)an outfit together. But achieving a complete outfit sans tie is easily done with this kind of dressing. Layering a fine gauge sweater over a patterned shirt, or added a pocket square can provide needed texture, color and detail. As with everything, focus on quality, craftsmanship and material.I don’t normally focus on a particular brand when discussing overall style goals. However, in this case one brand immediately comes to mind as a great one-stop resource; J. Crew.J. Crew’s modern take on classic New England preppy style can easily help Bob, or anyone, pull together the “real world” professor look. For example, Bob would look like a new man walking into his classroom dressed in :
Classic fit “essential chino”
“Reed” wingtip brogues, in brown
English leather plaque belt, in chocolate
Button down end-on-end “secret wash” oxford, in waterfall blue
Half-zip merino wool sweater, in deep blueberry
Pair all of this with the washed wool herringbone jacket at the beginning of the column.
This look was pulled together right out of the pages of J. Crew’s Holiday 2008 catalog. It is polished yet relaxed and also flexible; he can wear the jacket, or not. He can swap the chinos for their Vintage slim-fit black selvedge denim jeans. Either way, he still presents a positive image of style and self-possession without appearing at all stuffy. By focusing on separates that can be mixed and matched, multiple looks can be pulled together from a minimal number of key and classic pieces.Yes, it does mean investing in a new type of wardrobe, and some of that investing can be pricey – especially if Bob expands his shopping horizons and comes to appreciate the outstanding fit and quality of, say, a Brioni sport coat. Frankly though, that is not the ultimate goal. You do not need to idealize famous clothing brands in an effort to dress well and project a stylish, confident – and confidence inspiring, for that matter – look.The real point is that Bob will now be buying clothes that can last for life and can be added to over time. He is creating a new kind of wardrobe that can grow and evolve as he and his career grow and evolve. The fact that he wants to do all this is the most important thing of all. We are judged by how we look and how we carry ourselves. These days, now more so than ever, you are in charge of your career and you are your best marketing consultant.
So, you ask; what is an “odd Jacket?” It’s really just a clever term for any sport coat, blazer, or other jacket that is not part of a suit.
The odd jacket, long a versatile weapon in many a man’s wardrobe arsenal, has finally come into its own on the fashion front. In catalogs and stores blue blazers, tweed hacking jackets, corduroy sport coats, and linen jackets abound.I have always been a bit of a sucker for jackets. To me, they add that extra bit of personality that cannot otherwise be attained; like the Ivy League college professor strolling across campus, leather case in hand and wearing a slightly battered Harris Tweed jacket.
I actually saw that once at Harvard; it was like a scene out of a movie. Without the jacket however, his overall look would have suffered – it just wouldn’t have been the same. Odd jackets can help you finish off your look in several ways. As we now move firmly into the colder seasons, we also move into odd jacket weather. Depending on your mood and what sartorial message you are trying to convey, they can dress you up or down, polished or scruffy.
Classic PreppyWhen looking to create a studied prepster look, a la Ralph Lauren, focus on the layering. You don’t want too much going on, just enough to generate a textured history: grey tee shirt under a checked oxford, under a light sweater vest, surmounted by a chunky olive cord blazer.
Details matter with this kind of look, so finish it off with slightly worn khakis, tartan ribbon belt, and vintage watch. Heavier brogues or classic loafers round out the outfit. Earthy tones should drive this fall look.Urban CoolFor a refined city look that speaks of dressed down formal, think about a more finished jacket; maybe the coat from your favorite suit. Stores like H+M that sell affordable suit separates, are a great resource for this kind of look.
Take your finely tailored jacket and pair it with a good dress shirt and modern, dressy jeans. Shirts with spread collars are best as they don’t look like you forgot your tie. The goal is to create a balanced presentation between the casualness of the jeans and formality of the jacket.Classic DressIf you are looking for an office appropriate outfit that falls somewhere between a suit’s full-on formality and khaki’s casual attitude, the classic combination of a sport coat and trousers is always right. Contrast is key, so grey flannels and a chocolate brown cashmere sport coat paired with a lightly checked shirt would fit the bill.However you want to wear your jacket, be comfortable but also be aware of scale. Match finer weight trousers to finer weight jackets; heavy cords and tweed jackets. Just play around and enjoy the versatility that the odd jacket offers your wardrobe.
Investing in a well-tailored and high quality wardrobe can be an exciting and rewarding experience. It can also make a big difference in your outlook on life and on yourself. Keeping that investment in great shape takes a little work but that effort will keep your clothes in runway shape for a long time.While it does take some effort on your part, you’ll probably become one of those people that others point to and say, “wow, how does he always look so good?”
Part of my interest in wardrobe maintenance is probably genetic. I’m a New Englander and our obsession with using stuff until it literally falls apart in your hands is well-documented.
New Englanders virtually invented the idea of “old money” and popularized the idea of cherishing clothes and heirlooms that, while showing wear and tear, still have a certain timeless appeal. Though the natural aging of fabric and leather and wearing down of cuffs and elbows are normal, it should be held off as long as possible. Doing so allows your possessions to develop character and will help keep them around for years to come.
Here are a few basics that will help your cherished clothes last longer while still looking great.
Hang it up: Make an effort to keep your clothes clean and well-maintained. An easy and basic part of this something called the hanger; just use it. When you get home after a long day at work, change right away and hang up your clothes. Use wood hangers, untreated cedar are a good choice. Don’t crowd your closet. Garments need to breath and should have space to air out. Most wrinkles will work themselves out in between wearings.
More brushing, less dry cleaning: Most suits and sport coats only need to be dry cleaned about once a year. Delicate fabrics and linens may need more attention, but on the whole regularly brushing your garments with a clothing brush will remove most dust and dirt.
Spot cleaning can address many minor stains and help avoid unnecessary trips to the cleaners. If your suit is looking a little too lived in, go ahead and take it there, but only for a press. That will freshen it up without the damage of dry cleaning chemicals.
Shoe trees: In addition to protecting your dress shoes’ leather by keeping them polished, make sure to always use shoe trees. There are many models, but the best are full-sized and made from untreated cedar. The shoe tree will absorb moisture and help maintain your shoe’s shape. Varnished trees are fine as well; in fact I’m always on the lookout for the kind you’re likely to find in Ralph Lauren’s closet.
Don’t wear the same pair of shoes day after day; they need to rest and dry out. At the end of the day, give your shoes a quick brush down, insert trees, and give them a few days off. Should you get stuck in a rainstorm or have to tramp through snow, do not try to dry out your shoes quickly; it can permanently damage your fine footwear. Stuff them with newspaper, set them in a room temperature place and leave them alone. Change the paper if it gets damp but don’t rush the process. Also, make sure to brush off road salts or dirt immediately.
Launder with care: When it comes to laundering your shirts at home, cold water is usually better. Iron on slightly cooler settings and lay off the starch. If you need to use it, starch only the cuffs, collars, and plackets; those areas that can get a little unruly. If you regularly send your shirts off to the cleaners, pass on the starch there as well. Commercial presses do a fine job of working out the wrinkles without extra chemicals.
Jeans. For some people they symbolize lazy weekends; perhaps paired with your favorite old tee shirt and beat up sneakers. Perfect for washing the car or walking the dog. For others they connote urban hip; the ultimate counter play to formal office wear.
