Jeans. For some people they symbolize lazy weekends; perhaps paired with your favorite old tee shirt and beat up sneakers. Perfect for washing the car or walking the dog. For others they connote urban hip; the ultimate counter play to formal office wear.
Ralph Lauren once made news when he wore jeans with his dinner jacket to receive a major award. Far from being social faux pas though, it was instantly understood to be a very “Ralph Lauren” look and launched a thousand failed imitators. What he made look sharp and fashionable most people simply butcher.Jeans can be dressed up, but never make the mistake of thinking they can replace dress trousers, suit pants or, god forbid, tuxedo pants. People in the fashion business can get away with such things because they are in the fashion business and to their peers this is messing with the vernacular in a creative sort of way. Everyone else, myself included, should tread lightly when it comes to bringing jeans into the office.
Still, it is possible to dress up jeans for work, a nice dinner, or cocktail party. Just focus on some key rules.You should own at least one pair of dark blue jeans; they are timeless and the most versatile type you can own. Dark blue jeans can be dressed up with a collared shirt, sports coat and brogues, or dressed down with a tee shirt, cashmere crew neck sweater and moccasins.
Remember this: even though they are just jeans, they should still fit you. I read a very funny article recently about “dad jeans,” which highlighted the sad fact that over the years most guys fail to buy new jeans and instead perpetrate a self-delusional myth that their favorites will always fit. They don’t; and while the jeans may stay in top form, you dear reader will probably not and it will show.Although there are all sorts of fits and cuts, the best bet is still a basic strait leg version. It should sit at your natural hip and have a nice moderate break over your shoes. Alternately, you can wear them rolled up a bit for a preppy take or tailored to exactly hit the top of your shoe. Whatever your choice, they should look comfortable and trim but not tight; certainly not baggy and low-hanging. As with most things in life, simple is often better.
Dark jeans in particular lend themselves to more dressed-up outfits. They can carry off dressy casual better than their stonewashed or “vintage” brethren because of their inherent sophistication. In most outfits a good pair of dark blue jeans provides great texture and personality. Of course, if you want a laid back casual preppy look, most distressed and faded styles work fine as long as you stick with well-fitting strait leg models.
For the winter months, try pairing your jeans with a high quality dress shirt and sport coat – tweed or corduroy look great. Throw a vest in between to add some warmth as well as style. Trim jeans can carry off dress shoes particularly well. The juxtaposition of elegant leather footwear and rugged denim is very attractive.
For a more outdoorsy look, swap out the fine footwear for classic L.L. Bean Maine hunting boots. As noted above, jeans and sweaters are always a great mix.By approaching a good pair of jeans as a part of your wardrobe and not just something thrown in the corner, you will get more out of this versatile workhorse.
This past summer, an interesting article appeared in the International Herald Tribune about how employees at Eni, Italy’s largest power company, agreed to shed their ties and cut back on air conditioning in an effort to help fight global warming.
The company’s Rome and Milan offices began a tentative experiment in what it called, “lighter and cooler office attire.” It was by all accounts a success, though employees made it very clear that expected to return to proper clothing as the weather cooled into autumn.
Italians ditching their ties, are you kidding? Those often fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for an entire summer? Well, if nothing else, you can bet the loss of a mere tie did not send office standards into a sartorial tailspin as it has in too many offices across America. Tie or no tie, Italians have standards.
This article, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, is actually an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. In fact, it is a great teaching moment: focusing on style actually helps the environment – as it should.
Put simply, when you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is also well thought out. When you consciously consider what to buy and carefully edit your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that will just wind up in a landfill by the end of the year.
Everyday clothing is now relatively cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of sourcing, manufacturing, packaging, transporting, storing, selling, and eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.
As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage space, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.
Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are all factors you should consider when making any purchase.
Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that you will just throw out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While more expensive than off-the-rack, a well made custom suit will last for years. A classic cut can transcend fashion and a good tailor can make adjustments as your dimensions change over time.
By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste and duplication. Which brings me back to the Italians; I have no fear of track pants and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milan. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe for any weather, it is an Italian.
Over on The Sartorialist, I just posted a comment for his contest on the influences of style. I was a little surprised about what popped into my head right away, but I went ahead and posted it because it's the truth. Since the most interesting events in life tend to be the sources of who we are, I thought you might appreciate this little story. And my dad is still very much the natty dresser.The most powerful influence on my personal style goes back to one person, my father.
While there have been many other influences, from magazines and movies to several stints working at Polo/Ralph Lauren stores, it always comes down to him. My father has a timeless sense of taste and a respect for quality. He is, at heart, a J. Press man who over the years loosened up and expanded to Brooks Brothers. That being said he always looked comfortable and stylish without being stuffy or off-putting. To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy, which is very important since he is doctor. While he is a conservative dresser, my dad is by no means a sartorial wallflower. From white tie, tails and top hat for an annual dinner dance to creamy flannels, blue blazer, and a panama for a summer’s concert under the stars, he most certainly exemplifies personal style.
If any one event cemented my love for clothing and the power it has, it was when I saw him at work but he didn’t know I was there. I was with a friend who worked in the hospital’s emergency room and we stopped there so he could drop something off. While I stood in a corner and watched the commotion, I saw my dad come around the corner wearing a seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty. In the emergency room no less! What will forever stay in my heart and mind though is what happened next. He walked over to a man lying on a gurney parked along the wall, gently leaned over him and began to talk. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my father’s patient relax. At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help his patient. The style on the outside matched the man on the inside. More than any magazine or movie star, that image will always be my definition of true style.
Unless you have to wear a suit every day, khaki pants are probably the real backbone of your work wardrobe. From formally tailored to comfortably slouchy, they go with almost anything, can be dressed up or down, and travel well.
Choosing the right pair at the right time is important, or you’ll quickly wind up looking like a chain restaurant waiter.
You’re all grown up now and you need some grown up khakis too. Generally speaking, “khakis” encompass a broad range of pants that fall into a category that traces it’s lineage to military trousers from the 1940s. American soldiers brought home these beloved and functional pants and crated a trend that culminated in the classic “Ivy League” look.
Your own goal with these endlessly versatile pants should be to look dressed up but still comfortably relaxed. Make sure they are reasonably trim and stay away from pleats. While they are starting to make a comeback for suit pants, the heavier cotton fabric of most khakis will cause the pleats bulge out and visually add weight and bulk to your midsection.
Flat front khakis will give you a leaner silhouette and also tend to look more dressy. You should look for a mid rise (meaning the crotch doesn’t hang down by your knees) and a natural waist (meaning the pants sit on your natural hips). Choose a classic strait leg and allow for a nice break that can work with heavy oxfords or casual boat shoes. For a cleaner, modern look, tailor the pants without a break – just make sure you’ll always want that style, because there is no going back.
In many ways, khakis are the all-purpose chameleons of your daily wardrobe. They can impart both the rumpled comfort of puttering around the library in search of that elusive book on how to grow, say, marigolds and the freshly pressed crispness of heading off to the office on a brisk fall day, tweed jacket in tow.
While you typically want to keep to the classic fit described above, it makes sense to have both tailored and less constructed versions in the closet. Seasonality plays a role as well; lighter weight 5.6 ounce fabric are best for warm months just as classic 8.5 ounce pants can be pulled out for the fall and winter.
Khakis are one of the few clothing categories where I condone the “more is better” philosophy. Try to round out your wardrobe with different shades as well as styles; from light putty to deep British tan. Olive is a useful color as well. For the adventurous types who really love the classics, get yourself a pair of Nantucket Reds. While many brands may copy them, Murray’s Toggery Shop on the island itself is the original source.
While I generally don’t recommend specific brands, for the true American chino you have to check out what GQ magazine has called the “pants of the gods” - Bill’s Khakis. Go for the M2 model, around US $98. These pants are directly modeled after vintage World War II GI khakis and are built like Sherman tanks. They are about as authentic as you can get.
Check out this great BNET feature on dressing for work. It is broken down into four subsections that cover the basics of business dress, 10 easy ways to upgrade your look, how to buy a custom-made suit, a short video on dressing for business success.
As a sidebar, the section on ordering a custom-made suit was penned by Christian Chensvold, founder of the blogs Dadyism and Ivy Style. Therefore, you can rest assured that it is both entertaining and highly informative.
Vests are back in fashion and I for one am very happy about this overdue trend. A dozen years ago, I bought a wonderful waistcoat in Dublin. It was a classic Irish country tweed; colorful but not overdone, elegant but not at all dandified. It was a real classic and had a timeless cut. I love it now just as much as I loved it then.
Vests have a particularly special relationship with their owners. Cut close to the body and one of the more expressive of garments, they are certainly well known but not entirely understood. Relegated in the mind’s eye to restaurant waiters and country farmers on BBC television shows, most people not sure what to do them and are secretly intimidated by the vest.
This time of year the vests one often sees are the seasonal monstrosities that get trotted out for office Christmas parties: bright red with neon green reindeer all over. Horrible. If you do want to use your vest as an example of holiday visual interest, try a nice tartan.
In reality, vests are a versatile alternative for those times when you want an extra layer of clothing but a sweater is a bit too much. They are also a great way to show your individual style. For some guys, a vest takes a little guts to wear, but don’t be afraid to stand out and get noticed.
A vest can give you a vintage look and most have pockets for loose change or keys. Add a pocket watch for that extra sharp look. If you actually have a family watch, that’s wonderful; if not, go out and buy a nice vintage one and start your own family tradition. Regardless, make sure it actually works because people will go out of their way to ask you the time. Vests have that effect.
Vests, of course, come in different shapes and sizes. From casual sweater vests to rugged hunting versions, to three piece suit orphans. There is something for every occasion and function. According to a recent Wall Street Journal story, more men are investigating three piece suits. Last seen on the fashion radar somewhere in the 1980s, today's three piece suit is a far cry from that unappealing, boxy contraption.
Modern versions are more in line with the Golden Era of the 1930s and ‘40s, when men made a point of choosing clothing that celebrated rather than concealed individual personality. In fact, it is not uncommon for a tailor’s client to now request additional festive or contrasting vests to fit certain occasions or to be worn separately.
As with any piece of clothing – though more so with vests – fit matters. In this case it means your vest should lie close to the body but not constrict movement like sitting and bending. It should also fit in the chest; no gaps around the arm holes and the front of the vest should completely cover your shirt and lay just over the waistband of your trousers.
This last rule is open to a little interpretation as the “shrunken suit” trend applies to vests as well. If you are in especially good shape, you can get away with your vest ending well above the pant line, providing a particularly jaunty, vintage look. If you are unsure that you can pull off this trend, don't even try.
When it comes to buttons of course, the bottom one is always undone per the stylish but portly King Edward VII. While his need to allow for a little extra room across the waist was functional, the rule of leaving a vest's bottom button undone is purely decorative.
Now that cooler weather is upon us, it’s time to break out the clothes we've been waiting all year to wear. In my opinion, men's clothing is at its finest when the weather turns chilly.
Tweeds and cashmere, woollens and heavy corduroy are what make a guy's wardrobe interesting and masculine. And the purpose-built DNA of men's cold weather clothing is what tends to make it so attractive.
Heavy canvas jackets with lots of pockets were used for hunting, chunky boots protected feet out in the field or trekking through mountainous terrain. According to tradition (though some dispute its veracity), the elaborate cabling of iconic Irish fisherman's sweaters actually served a purpose; albeit a somewhat grim one. Each pattern belonged to a family and if a loved one drowned in the rough North Atlantic seas, the unique design would aid in identifying the lost soul.
Well, not all sweaters perform such a dramatic job and the one I'll talk about today serves a much more prosaic (though equally important) set of functions: to keep you warm and make you look good.
One of the most versatile pieces of clothing that should be in every man's fall wardrobe is a fine gauge v-neck sweater; jumper to our European readers. Just like having a pair of classic dark washed jeans that can take you from the office casual to drinks at the Ritz, a classic v-neck sweater will cover a lot of bases without overdoing it.
Now, I’m not talking about a chunky ski sweater or that shapeless holdover used for yard work. This sweater should be considered the equivalent of dress clothing. You want something that is lightweight, lightly fitted, and soft. Cashmere is the best choice of course, but depending on quality and brand name, it can be very expensive.
A personal note: unless you plan to spend lots of time at fancy outdoor events where you can brag about how much your sweater costs, don't bother with double and triple thick cashmere. Most of us are wearing these indoors at work or home and the extra thickness will only make you extra warm.
As an alternative to cashmere, merino wool is an excellent fabric. Look for tightly knit fabric that is soft to the touch and a comfortable fit.
Stick with solids at first – grey, brown, navy blue, and black. Once you have the basics in place, add an argyle for that college professor look. Indeed, this season there is a fair amount of variety when it comes to knits and texture and you can add some flair to your wardrobe with cables, heathers, and rough-weaves. Crew necks, sweater vests, and cardigans are all in this season as well, so make sure to check out the many options.
The v-neck sweater is a timeless piece that, when chosen carefully, can be happily used for years. Several seasons back a deeper “v” was favored, while these days a higher neck line is preferred. Generally speaking, I like the “v” to fall about two inches (roughly 5 cm) from the neck line as it provides room for a shirt collar to spread out while at the same time still containing it.
Wear your sweater over a tee shirt with dressy jeans and you’re pulling off George Clooney-like cool. For a classic preppy look, throw it over an oxford and head off to a lunch meeting. If you are having dinner at a nice place but a jacket is still too formal, reach for your v-neck as the perfect compromise. Regardless, you’re good to go with this classically flexible layer.
Last year, I wrote about achieving what I broadly referred to as the “college professor” look. Grounded more in beloved stereotype than classroom fact; tweeds, corduroy, tortoise shell glasses and leather dispatch cases rounded out this idealized look.
While more inspiration than practical, this style embodies classic Ivy League charm and actually blends quite well with the current trend toward tailored clothing.Having so dispensed with the hypothetical, I felt suitably up to the challenge when one of my closest friends, a high school teacher, asked me to write a column on how he could upgrade his professorial wardrobe.
His everyday wardrobe is fairly casual; khakis, jeans, polo shirts and sweaters are staples. Though he’s never been a suit and tie kind of guy, Bob (let’s call him Bob) now wants to dress in a more professional manner. He runs the school’s large drama department and wants his wardrobe to reflect this level of responsibility.He wants to project authority and professionalism without looking overdone, and in this case a daily coat and tie is very overdone. He’s not a banker, he’s a teacher; but does not mean he isn’t a professional. Bob is very good at what he does and wants his appearance to project that ability and experience.What is needed here is an in-between look; professional but not stuffy, relaxed but still grown up. One of the quickest ways to do this is by focusing on fit and tailoring. You don’t have to give up your personal style to pull on a more polished look because you’re not changing who you are. But you do need to pay attention to how you translate your personal tastes into a more refined look.In Bob’s case, as with many guys stuck in a dressing-for-college-class mindset, that means making a few key changes. Often, the simplest things make the biggest impact. Ditch shapeless worn out khakis in favor of tailored pants and swap baggy, faded jeans for fitted dark washed ones instead. Rather than rely on sweatshirts, try pima cotton crewneck sweaters. It’s all about reinterpreting your outdated college-era wardrobe for the grown up you.For many men, navigating the waters of business wardrobes without the benefit of a business suit can be a little scary. Suits are easy and authoritative. But for someone in Bob’s situation, a suit makes no sense.In his case, odd jackets and blazers are the best solution. An odd jacket, be it corduroy, tweed, flannel or cotton, will provide the formality and authority of a suit coat but do in a comfortable and relaxed fashion.Odd jackets can also be paired with almost any kind of outfit and give it a polished, finished look. And these days a jacket does not automatically necessitate a tie. I love ties, I personally think they are a wonderful way to express personality and can tie (get it?…tie...)an outfit together. But achieving a complete outfit sans tie is easily done with this kind of dressing. Layering a fine gauge sweater over a patterned shirt, or added a pocket square can provide needed texture, color and detail. As with everything, focus on quality, craftsmanship and material.I don’t normally focus on a particular brand when discussing overall style goals. However, in this case one brand immediately comes to mind as a great one-stop resource; J. Crew.J. Crew’s modern take on classic New England preppy style can easily help Bob, or anyone, pull together the “real world” professor look. For example, Bob would look like a new man walking into his classroom dressed in :
Classic fit “essential chino”
“Reed” wingtip brogues, in brown
English leather plaque belt, in chocolate
Button down end-on-end “secret wash” oxford, in waterfall blue
Half-zip merino wool sweater, in deep blueberry
Pair all of this with the washed wool herringbone jacket at the beginning of the column.
This look was pulled together right out of the pages of J. Crew’s Holiday 2008 catalog. It is polished yet relaxed and also flexible; he can wear the jacket, or not. He can swap the chinos for their Vintage slim-fit black selvedge denim jeans. Either way, he still presents a positive image of style and self-possession without appearing at all stuffy. By focusing on separates that can be mixed and matched, multiple looks can be pulled together from a minimal number of key and classic pieces.Yes, it does mean investing in a new type of wardrobe, and some of that investing can be pricey – especially if Bob expands his shopping horizons and comes to appreciate the outstanding fit and quality of, say, a Brioni sport coat. Frankly though, that is not the ultimate goal. You do not need to idealize famous clothing brands in an effort to dress well and project a stylish, confident – and confidence inspiring, for that matter – look.The real point is that Bob will now be buying clothes that can last for life and can be added to over time. He is creating a new kind of wardrobe that can grow and evolve as he and his career grow and evolve. The fact that he wants to do all this is the most important thing of all. We are judged by how we look and how we carry ourselves. These days, now more so than ever, you are in charge of your career and you are your best marketing consultant.
So, you ask; what is an “odd Jacket?” It’s really just a clever term for any sport coat, blazer, or other jacket that is not part of a suit.
The odd jacket, long a versatile weapon in many a man’s wardrobe arsenal, has finally come into its own on the fashion front. In catalogs and stores blue blazers, tweed hacking jackets, corduroy sport coats, and linen jackets abound.I have always been a bit of a sucker for jackets. To me, they add that extra bit of personality that cannot otherwise be attained; like the Ivy League college professor strolling across campus, leather case in hand and wearing a slightly battered Harris Tweed jacket.
I actually saw that once at Harvard; it was like a scene out of a movie. Without the jacket however, his overall look would have suffered – it just wouldn’t have been the same. Odd jackets can help you finish off your look in several ways. As we now move firmly into the colder seasons, we also move into odd jacket weather. Depending on your mood and what sartorial message you are trying to convey, they can dress you up or down, polished or scruffy.
Classic PreppyWhen looking to create a studied prepster look, a la Ralph Lauren, focus on the layering. You don’t want too much going on, just enough to generate a textured history: grey tee shirt under a checked oxford, under a light sweater vest, surmounted by a chunky olive cord blazer.
Details matter with this kind of look, so finish it off with slightly worn khakis, tartan ribbon belt, and vintage watch. Heavier brogues or classic loafers round out the outfit. Earthy tones should drive this fall look.Urban CoolFor a refined city look that speaks of dressed down formal, think about a more finished jacket; maybe the coat from your favorite suit. Stores like H+M that sell affordable suit separates, are a great resource for this kind of look.
Take your finely tailored jacket and pair it with a good dress shirt and modern, dressy jeans. Shirts with spread collars are best as they don’t look like you forgot your tie. The goal is to create a balanced presentation between the casualness of the jeans and formality of the jacket.Classic DressIf you are looking for an office appropriate outfit that falls somewhere between a suit’s full-on formality and khaki’s casual attitude, the classic combination of a sport coat and trousers is always right. Contrast is key, so grey flannels and a chocolate brown cashmere sport coat paired with a lightly checked shirt would fit the bill.However you want to wear your jacket, be comfortable but also be aware of scale. Match finer weight trousers to finer weight jackets; heavy cords and tweed jackets. Just play around and enjoy the versatility that the odd jacket offers your wardrobe.
Getting one’s shoes shined used to be a regular occurrence for most men. Back when most workplaces were formal, suits, ties, and business shoes were the daily costume of every working man, from CEO to junior accountant.
After decades of erosion, the very foundation of men’s business dress was on the verge of collapse until reason and style began to slowly regain a foothold in the boardroom. As dressing well makes a comeback so, thank goodness, does the shoe shine stand.
Getting your shine on is not only a welcome, albeit brief, respite in a busy day; it is a practical investment in preserving the longevity of your footwear. Leather shoes are vulnerable creations. Water, salt, dirt, grime, and daily wear all conspire to soak, dry out, and eat away your shoes’ natural defenses. By giving your shoes what they need – a soapy cleaning, polish or crème, and wax – they will pay you back in a glossy shine noticed by women with taste and men with an eye for detail.
In some places where the suit, or at least dressing to some standard of formality never died, the shoeshine remains a pattern of daily life. Washington, D.C., is one of those places. Shoes shine stands can be found in many hotels, restaurants, clubs, and those ubiquitous franchised operations that haunt airports everywhere. There are two shoe shines stands however, that stand out from the crowd. One is the savior of Amtrak commuters and the other buffs the shoes of power.
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Washington's Union Station
In my personal opinion, one of the best shines in D.C. can be found in Union Station, overlooking the Amtrak train gates. The three elevated seats stand high in the rear concourse, roped off in a small square close enough to the gates for travelers to keep an eye on the Acela Express. These guys do such a good job that a number of commuters from New York tell me that they wait until they get to D.C.for a shine! That says something; as Nicholas Antongiavanni points out in recent issue of Classic Style magazine, there are dozens of excellent stands throughout New York.
My second choice for an excellent shine is located just a short stroll away. In the basement of the Russell Senate office building is the United States Senate Hair Care shop. In so many ways this place is a throwback to the classic barber-shop–cum-clubhouse of the 1950’s. With the witty and talented staff working on the heads of senators, house members, Supreme Court justices, and everyday folks, there is almost always someone interesting wandering in or out of the place.
Russel Senate Office Building
The shoe shine stand is tucked up against the hallway which leads to the men and women who sculpt our fearless leaders’ coifs. While the shine itself is excellent, the real the treat is to see who is waiting for a cut or a quick buff of their requisite Brooks Brother’s tasseled loafers.
The best part of all is that it’s open to the public; anyone is welcome. If you want to get a haircut, just make sure to call for an appointment as it can get pretty busy in there.
I talk a lot about your clothes needing to fit properly, because when it comes down to brass tacks if what you're wearing doesn't fit nothing else really matters. When your suits, shirts, and trousers fit your body, they disappear; people may notice your overall appearance but exactly what you have on is less prominent. Regardless of your sterling personality, MBA, or fat bank account, when your clothes don’t fit your body – be it too tight or too loose – everything suffers. Unfortunately, this is a common problem with many men. So, let’s talk it over and get you cleaned up.
The real issue is that too many guys simply can’t judge what “fit” actually means. So, what exactly does it mean to have clothes that fit properly? First, everyone is different; what fits me may not fit you. Also, when dealing with “off the rack” clothes, no one size fits two men the same way.
If you and I both wear 44 regular jackets, mine may fit like a glove yet yours leaves you feeling constrained or with sleeves that are too long. The point is, and women can easily attest to this, everyone's body is different and designers design for a mythical ideal. Always keep that in mind and try on clothes for actual fit as opposed to what you think the label should say.
This is where the tailor enters our discussion. It really is surprising that so many men who value their appearance are intimidated by tailors, or at least hesitant to approach one. A good tailor can make your clothes fit in a way that changes how you view your wardrobe and how you see yourself. Imagine a closet filled with shirts, jackets, and pants that are all usable any day of the week. Each item will always work and always fit. It can give you a whole new outlook on dressing for the day.
Start with items that are favorites but have issues: the shirt with sleeves that are too long or the pants that never fit quite right. While you may not want to spend the extra money on clothes you already own, the outcome makes all the difference in the world. And think about it; you've already spent good money on clothes that you don't even wear. Now, that's a waste of cash.
Finding a good tailor is like finding a doctor; it's personal and make take a few tries. I have two particular tailors with whom I deal. One is for complex jobs and for work on expensive clothes. He is a custom tailor with a deep client list. The other tailor is my fix-it guy. Though extremely competent, he is far more affordable when it comes to routine jobs like hemming pant legs, letting a waist in/out, and re-attaching buttons.
So, what should you keep in mind when it comes to making sure your clothes fit? First and foremost, be totally honest with yourself about how your clothes feel when you put them on. Here are a few more guidelines:
Trousers
Pants should not be tight around your waist, but for sizing purposes they should stay put without the need of a belt. The only exception to this rule is if you are wearing braces. Then, your waistband should have a little extra room to allow the pants to hang properly. Regardless, you should never have to struggle with a button or zipper and there should be no pulling across the front or read of your pants. Another test involves your front pockets; they should always lay flat and closed and not flare open. If they do pull open, the waist needs to be let out.
Most dress or semi formal trousers should have a slight to medium break where the pant leg meets the shoe, but no more than one inch. As a general rule, your socks should remain mostly hidden when you walk down the street, so a higher break is perfectly fine as long as it doesn’t look like you’re wearing high-waters. Casual pants like khakis can sport a break or not, either look can work well. Again though, avoid the clam digger look unless you are actually strolling the beach near your summer house.
When standing still, you want your pant legs to remain proportional to the upper half of your body and the visual weight of a breaking cuff usually suffices. Speaking of cuffs; they are most appropriate with lighter fabric, to help weigh down the leg, and when you want a defined end to your leg. Cuffed pants also tend to work best with pants that have wider leg openings. Pants with narrower legs tend look better without cuffs.
Two final notes: first, casual pants like khakis should never be cuffed; the same is true for formal trousers (read tuxedos). Additionally, formal trousers should not have a break; they should just meet the tops of your shoes.
Shirts
When you button a dress shirt, there should be just enough room in the collar for you to slip you index finger in and comfortably move it around. Ideally, you should not turn blue and pass out. The collar should not be so high as to make your neck disappear and the shirt's hem should stay tucked in even when bending over.
The body of the shirt should have room that allows for movement but not so much that it billows out after five minutes. Slimmer styles are in vogue right now and after some griping, I am now a convert. They are more comfortable and allow for a fit under trimmer jackets. Aversion to trim clothing in general seems to be an American problem, but we are finally recognizing that the sartorial benefits outweigh the initial sense of discomfort.
The current trend is also toward higher arm holes that lead to a more fitted sleeve. Generally speaking shirtsleeves should end just below your wrist bone though I don’t consider it a hard and fast rule. Just don’t let them puddle around your thumbs, it looks sloppy.
Jackets
In my opinion, you should always want to wear your jacket. Not that you need to of course, but a suite coat or sports jacket should feel naturally comfortable. The shoulders should be snug but not cramped and the line of your own shoulder should not be visible under the fabric. By no means should the jacket's shoulder hang below your actual shoulder. If it does that jacket is too large and you need the next size down.
Your jacket’s collar should stay firmly in place against your shirt’s collar and not pull away or ride up. About a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff should be visible; any more and it looks like you’re wearing your dad’s shirt. With the “shrunken jacket” trend hitting the runways more and more, it can be hard to discern what a proper body fit entails. For real men in the real world, you should be able to easily button your jacket and when you let your arms drop, the jacket’s hem should line up with your knuckles.
Lastly, your jacket’s rear vents should not pull open when standing still, they should lay flat. If they do, head over to you tailor to have it let it out a bit. Then put down the slice of pizza in your hand. Remember, the best way to make sure your clothes always fit is to stay in shape.
The folks over at AskMen.com recently sent me a link to their profile of industrial giant, and father of Fiat, Gianni Agnelli. This founder of the wear-your-watch-on-your-sleeve club was a consummate clothes horse. Of course his clothes were lovely hand made heirlooms so well crafted that his equally eccentric grandson Lapo Elkann still wears them.
The profile is pithy but well done and highlights Agnelli's flair for the functionally dramatic. What really caught my attention though, was the collection of additional profiles listed at the bottom of the page. JFK, Barack Obama, Kanye West and the last three decades of James Bond, to name but a few. Each one is a succinct shot of what specifically makes them an icon of style and how specifically you can create your own interpretation of their style. Normally I give these sorts of things short shrift because they are so often thin cliches. Not so these brief nuggets of history and fashion.
I think they are a great resource for classic and classy looks that stand the test of time. They also throw out small but fascinating nuggets of information, like the make of sweater worn by Jack Kennedy during his iconic walk through the suft of a Massachusetts beach. It was a J. Press pima cotton v-neck and you can still buy it today. Or that the watch worn by President Elect Obama is in fact a chronograph given to him by his Secret Service detail. It's actually from the Secret Service store and has the agency's shield logo emblazoned on it's face.
Secret Service watch given to President Elect Obama
Now, that's the sort of stuff that I find interesting. Taking the time to put objects in their context and not just saying "this is cool, wear it"; helps the reader to understand where things come from and how they can make them their own.
Last week I wrote a rather lengthy article focusing on my belief that when times aren’t so good, people tend to go for the classics. When every cent counts, a wardrobe based on longevity and timeless style often wins out over flash and of-the-moment fashion.Focusing on the classics, like a well cut single-breasted grey suit, is a smart investment that will last for years and fit the bill for most any business situation.But investing in classic suits, solid dress shirts, dressy chinos and quality footwear is only half the battle. The other half is properly looking after your pricey investments. Keeping your clothes in great shape takes a little work but that effort will keep everything in runway shape for a long time. Having Ralph Lauren's closet (above) sure doesn't hurt either.Though the natural aging of fabric and leather and wearing down of cuffs and elbows are normal, and often quite charming, these inevitabilities should be held off as long as possible. Doing so allows your possessions to keep their appeal while still developing the character that makes you want to keep them around for years to come.Here are a few basics that will help your cherished clothes last longer while still looking great.HangersHang up you clothing and invest in sturdy wood hangers. Using a solid and well sized hanger (suit hangers for suits, slimmer hangers for shirts) will add years to your clothing and help protect your garments from snags, wrinkles and stains.
Wood hangers only - no arguing
When you get home after a long day at work, change right away and either hang up your work clothes or toss them in the laundry/dry cleaning bin. Make a point to keep you closet in order too, so no crowding. Garments need room to breathe and space to air out. In most cases, wrinkles will work themselves out in between wearings. An impromptu steaming can help too – just hang your day’s outfit next to the shower.Dry Cleaning v. BrushingMost suits and sport coats only need to be dry-cleaned once a year. Delicate fabrics and linens may need more attention, but on the whole brushing your garments with a clothing brush will remove most dust and dirt. Spot cleaning can address minor stains and help avoid unnecessary trips to the cleaners. If your suit is looking a little too lived in, go ahead and take it in for a pressing only. It will look refreshed without being unnecessarily exposed to damaging dry cleaning chemicals.Laundering ShirtsThough some people insist on dry cleaning their dress shirts, I prefer to launder them at home. When it comes to home laundering, cold water is usually best but always look for the care tag first. Iron on a slightly cooler setting and lay off the starch.
If you are still compelled to use it, starch only those areas that can get a little unruly, like the cuffs, collars and plackets. If you regularly send your shirts off to the cleaners, pass on the starch there as well. Commercial presses do a fine job of working out wrinkles without the need for extra chemicals.Footwear CareNowhere else does the concept of “investment clothing” hold forth than with footwear. A good pair of quality business shoes can easily cost several hundred dollars. Custom shoes quickly reach into the thousands. Though it can be a big financial hit up front, good shoes will always being in style and when properly cared for, can last a lifetime. Though they may seem an extravagance (and for many of us they are), custom shoes in addition to looking great, will help keep your feet healthy. So as a general rule, keep your footwear in top notch shape.In addition to protecting your dress shoes’ leather by keeping them polished, make sure to always use shoe trees. There are many variations, but the best are full-sized and made from untreated cedar. The shoe tree will absorb moisture and help maintain your shoe’s shape. Fancy varnished trees are fine too – the kind with heavy brass knobs or pull rings – in fact I’m looking for some myself.
Be careful to not overuse your good shoes. Don’t wear the same pair day after day; they need to rest and dry out. At the end of the day, give your shoes a quick brush down, insert the trees, and give them a few days off. Should you get stuck in a rainstorm or have to tramp through snow, do not try to dry out your shoes quickly; it can permanently damage your fine footwear. Stuff them with newspaper, set them in a room-temperature place and leave them alone. Change the paper if it gets damp but don’t rush the process. Also, make sure to brush off road salts or dirt immediately. Once the leather has air dried, insert your shoes trees and give them a good polish and waxing to recondition the leather.
Shoe trees at workIn fact, splurge every now and then for a really good shoe shine. My favorite stand is in Washington, D.C.'s Union Station - right by Amtrak's F Gate. Those guys are the best.
Union Station Shoe ShineTaking care of your clothing should not been seen as a chore; quite the opposite in fact. To me, looking after my clothes is a pleasure and since I put real thought into my wardrobe, taking care of it all is a happy ritual.
Men being men, many of us tend to see shoes as utilitarian, something we need, but not something on which to spend a lot of time. Once we have to look good though – an interview for the top job, a friend’s wedding, or a big date - we’re scrutinizing our footwear like a panicked drill sergeant. Though men need different kinds of shoes for different reasons, too often we just default to the three or four pair (at the most) which have been in the closet for years. The outcome isn’t always pretty.
This is a sad situation because if most men took the time to understand how well-made shoes are manufactured, they would pay much more attention to their feet. The quality of materials, complexity of construction, and sheer amount of time it takes to make just one pair ensures that a truly well-made pair of shoes lasts for many years.
Not only that, but there is an awful lot of truth to the saying that women judge a man by his shoes. To be “well heeled” means that you have money and class. Or least you have a solid income and can afford to keep you shoes in good condition. Simple things like keeping them polished and replacing your soles and heels before they wear away all together will help your footwear age gracefully and make you look good.
Men’s shoes have two distinct advantages over women’s. First, as my wife tells me on a regular basis, men’s shoes are actually designed to fit. A properly fitted pair of dress shoes should be comfortable all day long. Second, men’s shoes are built to last. I still have a pair of brown wingtips that were a present from my father 17 years ago. I have re-soled them numerous times and they have aged beautifully.
With more men now focused on dressing well, there are still too many who fall into the “not-appropriate trap.” Generally, this is when incompatible clothes are thrown together under the delusion that simply mixing business and casual clothes creates “business casual.” It doesn’t. The problem often arises because a lot of guys know either how to dress casually or dress up but nothing much in between. An annoying offense I regularly see is wearing very formal cap toed oxfords with casual, heavy cotton khakis. It looks ridiculous and draws unwanted attention to an awkward looking outfit.
When getting dressed in the morning, you need to pay attention to things like scale, material, texture and balance. When dealing with footwear, you also have to consider function – what are you doing and where are you going? Should I wear my good interview shoes with cargo pants so they look more dressed up? No. With dressy jeans, yes; it's a very sharp look that Europeans tend to pull off a bit more successfully than most Americans.
When it comes to purchasing a pair of shoes, keep in mind that it’s not like buying a book or a pack of undershirts. Shoes are to your feet what tires are to your car. What they’re made of, how they’re put together, and how they are cared for have a lot to do with how both look, perform, and last. With men’s footwear, you really do get what you pay for. With dress shoes, that comes down to materials and construction.
If you are lucky enough to be the President of the United States or the Prince of Wales, your shoes are made entirely by hand, fit like a glove, took months to create and cost a fortune. Makers like John Lobb and Edward Green create veritable works of form fitting art with prices that look more like mortgage payments; but they also offer ready to wear lines that are a little more in reach.
I’m not saying that you should only own custom or bench made shoes. Different people have different needs and budgets. Take a look at what you wear and think about how you want to present yourself to the world. From formal occasions to day-to-day work needs, buy the best you can afford. As with tailored clothing, it’s better to have fewer well made pieces than a closet full of junk.
When it comes to figuring out what shoes to wear at any given time, try using common sense. For heavier, more casual pants, you want a larger overall profile to balance out the heft of the fabric. This means a thicker sole, less refined stitching, and an overall sense of casual, but not sloppy, style.
A less glossy finish also gives the shoe a less formal feel. Leave the proper oxfords, cap toes, and balmorals for your suits. Bluchers and loafers can be worn with dress pants that have a finer hand and “dressy” khakis. Boat shoes and chunky Timberland style shoes are great for more casual wear.
I'm also a big fan of having at least one pair of suede dress shoes, slip-ins, or ankle boots. They go with anything and lend an air of sophistication to whatever you have on. In a rich, dark chocolate, they pull together casually dressy outfits like nothing else really can.
Jeans. For some people they symbolize lazy weekends; perhaps paired with your favorite old tee shirt and beat up sneakers. Perfect for washing the car or walking the dog. For others they connote urban hip; the ultimate counter play to formal office wear.
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