Style Guide: The Crewneck Sweater

I recently talked about the of v-neck sweaters, one of your cold weather wardrobe’s most versatile tools. It is, however, not the only option when it comes to lightweight or mid-weight sweaters. The other option is of course the standard against which all sweaters are measured – the crewneck sweater.

The crewneck sweater is a classic staple of men’s wardrobes everywhere. Based on the most basic of stylistic designs, this woven outer shirt is about as strait forward as a garment can be. And to me that is its enduring benefit; it can work with almost any outfit and easily be paired with jeans or grey flannels.

A good crewneck should have a lightly fitted body and trim arms, but not too tight. The hem of the sweater should sit at your waist with room to allow for sitting, stretching etc., but should not blouse over the ribbed bottom. This effect is unattractive on anyone and gives the impression that either you don’t know you own size (legitimately, a common and unfortunate problem for many guys) or that borrowed someone else’s sweater. Neither impression is a positive one.

The sweater should fit comfortably over an oxford shirt yet still allow for easy movement while maintaining a close fit. I like my sweater’s arms to either run a touch long so that I can turn back a good amount of cuff or end right at the wrist and allow some shirt sleeve to show. Anything in between tends to look out of proportion on me.


Modern fit (Zanone)

The neck is an area that merits additional attention. Some makers have neck lines that appear designed to strangle anyone foolish enough to stick their head through, while others seem to feel that wide gaping holes are somehow attractive. The ideal is a neck that allows the collar of your shirt to sit comfortably within, while the sweater itself offers a clean, firm neck hole that won’t easily lose its shape.


A good neck

Regarding fabrics, lamb’s wool is a solid standby and tends to be the most affordable of classic sweater materials. It is light and warm but rough enough to avoid being particularly formal. Merino wool is an excellent material and many of my favorite sweaters are made of merino. But by almost anyone’s standard, cashmere is really the gold standard. One- or two-ply is more than enough for the average office dweller. Three-ply cashmere sweaters are often hawked this time of year, but don’t fall for it. Pictures of handsome people frolicking in snowy New England winters do no good while you are sweating up a storm in your climate controlled office building – every day.


J. Press (t) & J. Crew (b)

When it comes to looks and construction, there are many different styles of crewnecks; from simple to elaborate, paper thin to bomb proof. After much thought, I have concluded that there are only two really useful styles: flat knit and cabled in solid colors.

A few years ago, during an after-Christmas sale, I came across a beautiful, chunky lamb’s wool Irish fisherman style sweater. It was a steal and I bought it. It didn’t take me long to realize that I couldn’t wear the thing anywhere except outside on a cold day. It weighed a ton and trapped too much heat. The upshot? Unless you actually are an Irish fisherman or really do work outside, give this heavy style a pass.

A mid- or lightweight cabled sweater is a much better choice and is simply more usable. You can find them in every color under the sun; from preppy primaries to English heathers. Classics brands like Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Ralph Lauren and J. Crew offer a wide variety of this timeless model and each maker has its own take on the classic shape. Where Brooks’ might run a little roomy, like its oxfords, J. Crew is likely more fitted.

The same goes for flat knit sweaters. These seamless, modern versions can give you a more modern look while still hewing to a traditional silhouette. Like the cabled crewneck, they are incredibly versatile and mix well with different materials. Flat knits in particular are good to have around because, if you want to go with a more casual look, they can also act as a grownup sweatshirt – relaxed but not sloppy.


Sweatshirt alternative (Banana Republic)

Younger designers focused on the resurgence of American Ivy League style are just as enamored with crewnecks. Michael Bastian makes a great version and Zanone, part of Italian brand Incotex, makes the washed cashmere version in the top image.


Michael Bastian's (l) take on preppy

Crewnecks also adapt well to layering, though don’t work as well as a v-neck if you want to sport a tie underneath. Like most pieces of classic preppy clothing, crewneck sweaters are a smart investment that will be in style long after their better days are behind them. But, that’s the charm of classic clothes: they get better with age.

Style Guide: The V-Neck Sweater

With cooler weather firmly planting itself across the globe's Northern hemisphere, it’s time to break out the warm weather clothes. Even those of us who work in cozy climate controlled offices are feeling the need to layer.

One of the most versatile pieces of clothing that should be in your winter wardrobe is a fine gauge v-neck sweater. Just like having a pair of classic dark washed jeans that can take you from office casual to drinks at the Ritz, a classic v-neck sweater will cover a lot of bases without overdoing it.

Now, I’m not talking about a chunky ski sweater or that shapeless holdover used for yard work. You should look on this sweater as alternative dress clothing; something lightweight, lightly fitted and soft.

Cashmere is the best choice of course, but depending on quality and brand name, it can be very expensive. And don’t bother with double and triple thick cashmere unless you are spending lots of time outdoors. Most of us are wearing these indoors at work or home and the extra thickness will only make you extra warm. If price is an issue, merino wool is as an alternative to cashmere. Look for tightly knit fabric that is soft to the touch and has a comfortable fit.

Stick with solids at first – grey, brown, navy blue, and black. Once you have the basics in place, add an argyle for that college professor look. Indeed, this season there is a fair amount of variety when it comes to knits and texture and you can add some flair to your wardrobe with cables, heathers, and rough-weaves. Classics like crew necks, sweater vests and cardigans are all in style this season as well, so make sure to check out of your options.


Fair Isle in earth tones

The v-neck sweater is a timeless piece that, when chosen carefully, can be happily used for years. Several seasons back a deeper “v” was favored, while these days a higher neck line is preferred. Generally speaking, I like the “v” to fall about two inches (roughly 5 cm) from the neck line as it provides room for a shirt collar to spread out while at the same time still containing it.


Argyle casual


A little more modern

Wear it over a tee shirt with those dressy jeans and you’re pulling off George Clooney-like cool. For a classic preppy look, throw it over an oxford and head off to a lunch meeting. If you are having dinner at a nice place but a jacket is still too formal, reach for your v-neck as the perfect compromise. Regardless, you’re good to go with this classically flexible layer.

The Fine Art of Taking Off a Sweater

Recently, a reader posed to me the following question: My husband likes to remove his crew neck sweaters (and crew neck t-shirts) by grabbing it by the neckline and pulling the sweater up over his head by holding the neckline. It seems to me this procedure tends to stretch the neckline out of shape. Please advise me on how a man normally removes their crew neck sweater?

Here, in dizzying heights of style philosophy, we sometimes get lost in the minutiae of abstract detail – dissecting the nuances of pick stitching on a bespoke suit jacket lapel, for example. In the real world though, it’s often the more mundane and practical issues that dominate one’s daily routine. The straightforward question above is a wonderful example of this truth. The question of properly removing a garment such as a sweater is not an insignificant matter. Particularly if, say, you posses one made of expensive and delicate cashmere.

In truth, this question expresses one of those universal concerns that does in fact deserve a little attention. As noble as that may sound however, I am afraid this is a debate with no clear-cut answer. There really is no gentle way to remove a crewneck sweater. Ultimately the sweater has to come over one's head or get yanked off a pair of arms. Something somewhere along the line is going to get pulled, stretched or twisted.

I tend to pull sweaters over my head from the rear, so that once off, the sweater is in front of me still on my arms. At that point I just slide one arm out and then the next. I’m sure there no shortage of opinion on my technique, but that's just how I prefer take of my sweaters, end of story.

I do usually grab at the neckline, but once the bottom hem is in range I pull it off from there. Like my reader, I prefer to avoid the potential of stretching out the neck more than necessary. Still, it is going to happen to some extent and I’ve made peace with this inevitability.

Some men pull an arm out of the sweater while still wearing it - sort of like how women can mysteriously change tops without ever removing an outer garment. Once you have a free arm inside the sweater, you gently work the sweater over the head and then extract the remaining arm. If the material is particularly delicate, I suppose this is the least disruptive way of removing the garment, but I find it a bit tedious.

Another strategy is to cross yours arms over and grab the side of the sweater towards the back (so your right hand has the left hand side and your left hand has the right side) then simply pull the garment off over the back of your head. To me this is a logistical mystery - I can never get it to work correctly and often wind up with an arm stuck somewhere.

Others push the front of the jumper up over their face and behind the neck, so that they can sort of pull it off as though removing a coat. Of all methods, I find that the most overly complicated.

Most of my sweaters are fairly hearty and can stand up to the simple grab-the-neck-and-pull method, but ultimately the best way to judge one's technique is to look in a mirror and see how well your sweaters are faring