The economic crisis currently scorching balance sheets across the globe has finally reached up to singe some prominent retailers.
Companies like Nordstrom, Neiman Marcus and Saks which have so far been able to ride above the economy's troubled waters, are now getting caught in the unprecedented economic downturn. In a nutshell, people are realizing that while they do need clothes, they don't necessarily need fashion; or at least pricey fashion. This is an abrupt turnaround from the last several years of aspirational aquistion.Basically, the party's over.Everyone's Feeling the PainUntil recently, the conventional wisdom held that prestigious retailers were more or less immune to the credit crunch affecting the masses. Their affluent customers appeared to be just fine - if only a little more judicious with their spending than in the past. For many companies, that mirage has evaporated. In October Neiman Marcus and Saks posted declines of 27.6 percent 16.6 percent, respectively. Nordstrom, which lowered its third-quarter earnings outlook to a range of 32 to 37 cents, suffered a 15.7 percent comparable-store decline.
Boston Area Gap StoreSpecialty retailers weren’t spared either. Gap North America and International put up comparable store declines of 14 and 5 percent, respectively, modest in comparison to Banana Republic and Old Navy, which registered decreases of 17 and 20 percent, respectively. Ouch.According to Burt Tansky, CEO of Neiman Marcus, high end customer service will not suffer. In today’s DNR, he stresses that the stores will continue to offer “high-level service” and that associates will continue to be work closely with customers. “They are obviously still shopping, just shopping less and shopping more focused.” He also said his customers’ shopping habits are very much tied to the stock market and that “based on our experience in previous business cycles, we believe our customers’ buying levels will increase once the economic environment stabilizes.”Though many retailers were expecting soft numbers going into the fall, the reality of the situation is on the bleaker side. Slowing sales and cautious shoppers are hitting everyone in the sector harder than anticipated. This is not a purely domestic virus. No, the international flavor of this crisis is a sign of things to come. When American debt held in Asian funds invested in by German insurers goes bad because of residential foreclosures in Detroit, you know we are in a new place.Bucking the Trend
Mid-tier retailers like Macy’s, J.C. Penny and Gottschalks had poor showings too, but not nearly as bad and their high-end counterparts. Discounters like BJ’s Wholesale – the place you go to buy a 20 pack of undershirts – showed positive numbers and WalMart, almost 2.5 percent. The message is clear, for the commodities of life, brand is no longer king; value is.
Ralph Lauren's Chicago Flagship
All that said, which company totally out-performed the market? Ralph Lauren. The company posted a second-quarter profit gain of 39.6 percent that beat analysts’ estimates by 33 cents. For those of you who are not into market lingo – that is huge. Normally companies beat expectations by two or three cents, not 33.The company announced that its online presence, RalphLauren.com posted double digit gains across all major categories. One reason for this strong showing could be the company’s brand diversification. With distinctive yet connected brands covering all price points, Ralph Lauren is able to compensate for slower sales of Purple Label inventory with greater demand in Chaps. The company also assumed full control of its Japanese operations this year, a move that will finally balance local inventory that heretofore always seemed skewed disproportionately toward menswear.What does this all mean for clothing retailers? Well, first it means that things will probably get worse as we lurch toward what can only be described as an anemic looking holiday season. Actually, anemic may be too generous an adjective. Second, this situation is also a chickens-coming-home-to-roost situation for many high-end labels that courted mass market shoppers with discounted luxury. I wrote at length about this earlier in the year.When the fiscal dust settles, we will invariably be in better shape as a market overall. Companies with thin financials and leveraged balance sheets will have fallen by the wayside. Those with solid business plans and strong fundamentals will see new opportunities here and abroad.Consumers will likely set the tone for a while as designers and manufacturers keep their noses to the grindstone, producing goods which customers actually want to buy. Passionate visionaries will be able to capitalize on the new breathing space in the market and present collections that can help define our new economic and social reality.
If nothing else, this turbulent and exciting moment in history is signaling to people everywhere that no country, population, or financial demographic is an island anymore. Financially speaking, we are a vast interconnected web of commerce and no one is immune from catching the proverbial cold.
As deep and technical as that all sounds, I'm really curious as to how this will all be reflected in a runway show.
DNR just announced it's Top 100 Power Players in menswear and, no surprise, Ralph Lauren holds onto the number one slot yet again.
While this may not seem particularly noteworthy, Ralph Lauren has never been known as one to rest on his bespoke laurels. Constantly driving his vision and company forward, Lauren, 68, is as innovative and finely tuned as ever.
Below is a excerpt from the DNR story, click here to read the entire article.
"Polo Ralph Lauren finished the year with 27 additional, directly operated stores. More recently it opened boutiques on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles and in Istanbul, Turkey, a new market. In 2009 a Paris flagship will bow on Boulevard Saint Germain, and the original Manhattan flagship, the Rhinelander Mansion, will be converted to a men’s-only concept. The Rugby chain has expanded to 12 stores, all in affluent and/or collegiate areas, as this youth-oriented and lower-priced brand is expected to become a serious growth engine. To that end, Rugby.com revealed e-commerce capability this past summer.At the beginning of the decade, Ralph Lauren blazed a trail for luxury brands to sell product through Web sites, supported by rich multimedia. This year it led the way in adopting another interactive technology, which allows consumers to make purchases through their mobile phones with ease. Quick Response technology has already become mainstream in Asia and is catching on in Europe. Ralph Lauren is the first luxury brand in the U.S. to directly launch this type of service and incorporate QR codes in advertisements."
Rounding out the top Ten:#2 Gorgio Armani (Armani, Emporio Armani, A/X, et al.)#3 Gildo Zenga (Ermenegildo Zegna)#4 Eric Weismann (VF Corp.)#5 Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana (Dolce & Gabana)#6 Terry Lundgren (Macy's)#7 Mickey Drexler (J. Crew Group)#8 Miuccia Prada and Patrizio Bertelli (Prada)#9 Bernard Arnault (LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton)#10 François-Henri Pinault and Robert Polet (PPR)
Right after I posted the "Capital Investments" article below, my musings on the economy pushing men toward the classics as long-term wardrobe investments were proved right - buy Brooks Brothers, no less.
Almost the very next day I received a Brooks Brothers e-mail, in which a vintage World War II era Brooks ad played center stage:
Extolling the value of investing in a Brooks suit, this historic piece plays right into today's headlines. "Brooks Brothers is still the investment you can trust." It's true, of course; if you are going to pick up a new interview suit or freshen up your shirt drawer or tie rack, Brooks is about the safest sartorial bet you can make.
If off the rack is not your thing, stroll on over to Saks Fifth Avenue. Saks just inaugurated a new private label made-to-measure service at 12 stores across the country. Be warned though, made-to-measure is not bespoke. Your suit is based on a pre-existing pattern and then tailored to your body, and Saks has made it very clear that these suits fall into an accessible cost bracket - around US$1,200-1,400. That's much less them true custom, but certainly nothing to sneeze at.
If you re in D.C., there are numerous excellent tailors, several of whom provide bespoke services to the president and other White House bigwigs. If that kind of pedigree is a little out of your price range, check out VM Clothiers.
Owned by Vishal Mirpuri, a fellow who's family has more than 40 years in the tailoring business, his company provides true custom tailoring at very reasonable prices. Mirpuri specifically targets younger professionals who may not be familiar with custom tailoring - or maybe familiar enough to be put off by the cost and complexity. Based out of D.C., he can take measurements and review fabrics from the comfort of your office and ship the details off to his tailors in Hong Kong. In a few weeks, you meet up again for a fitting and touch up work.
I'll be writing a bit more about Mr. Mirpuri in the near future. I spent some time speaking with him about the tailoring business and put in an order for a couple of shirts too. I'll let you know a bit more about him and tell you how the shirts worked out.
All of this reinforces what's happening in the real world right now - people are looking to everything on which they spend money and asking themselves whether it's an investment worth making.
In this particular case, the answer is a solid "yes".
I recently read an interesting article that noted even in these challenging financial times, the sales of high end handbags – timeless and iconic styles rendered in exotic skins like crocodile – are in fact quite strong and by some accounts, growing.Buying LongAccording to industry analysts – and fairly clear to most people with a passing interest in sociology and economics – the women buying these expensive, sometimes very expensive, bags are making very deliberate long-term investments. The very opposite of the “It Bag,” these classically shaped and handcrafted bags bespeak luxury and class, often without a hint of a logo or brand name. They will be in style for a very long time, if not indefinitely; and that is key. This kind of accessory buying is a clear signal that consumers, at least moneyed consumers, are eying their pocketbooks. The Wall Street Journal recently noted that wealthy consumers are still spending, but across the board are focusing more on classic and less ostentatious fashion.When things get rough out there, people tend to look inward and seek the comforts of the familiar and the traditional. Think of the home nesting boom that followed the brutal attacks of 9/11. By focusing on objects, places and styles that remind us of a safe and happy time, individually or collectively, we often find a common reference point at which to start again.
The classics do just that.Today, with the near collapse of the world’s financial markets we face a similar psychic trauma. The economic crisis currently whacking people’s savings accounts across the globe is also affecting how, when and if people shop. Since the liquidity of everyday folk like you and me is not what it was even a few days ago, the investments we make in clothing and accessories take on greater importance. No longer buying to pass the time, people are looking at each purchase and asking about its long term staying power.Back to the ClassicsFor example, if tomorrow I were to walk into the local haberdashery, which do you think I would go for: an of the moment skinny suit, skinny tie and schoolboy high-water trousers, or a more timeless cut that will carry me through a few years in style?
Put another way, in times of crisis we look to solid and trustworthy archetypes. After mixed results, institutions like law firms and financial services companies were some of the first to pull back on casual workday attire and the current crisis in confidence has the trend toward professional workplace dress accelerating.When things are shaky in the world, the people handling our legal and financial security can’t just be competent, they better look competent too. We want to be reassured and comfortable with those who are supposed to serve or look after us – we need to see it.
In the simplest of terms, we want a suit. We want a briefcase and legal pad, a nice tie and polished shoes. These are the comforting images of stability, professionalism and classic, timeless style.I suspect that we will be seeing a broader trend toward traditional work attire. It began about two years ago with the over-the-top preppy look driven by strong mid-market brands like J. Crew. That trend drew on the traditional New England seaside lifestyle, amped up with color and repp stripes as far as the eye could see.Over the past few seasons, that trend has mellowed a bit and grown up, bringing with it more refined yet comfortable versions of traditional classics. Because classic styles and colors have the kind of staying power which can outlast most recessions, it is to those influences we turn when financial instability makes us reconsider the difference between “needs” and “wants.”Retailers at every price point have indicated that menswear – meaning classic clothing with a capital “C” – will be a focal point for the coming seasons. Three piece suits – both gravitas inducing and functionally versatile – are starting to show up again. The blue blazer is getting a fresh round of appreciation as the go-to workhorse of many a wardrobe.
Basics, Basics, BasicsSo, what does all this mean to you? I think, like the real estate mantra “location, location, location,” that the menswear mantra should be “basics, basics, basics.” Take the time and effort to build up the basics of a long-term wardrobe and it will pay you dividends.
The Grey Suit (in this case, Zegna)
So, before you rush off and drop a few weeks' pay for some fancy Canali peak lapelled mauve and blue windowpane suit, make sure you already have at least one go-anywhere single breasted, two-button, notched lapel, medium grey suit in a nice three season weight – 120s is good. That suit will take you from first interview to cocktail hour with the CEO and back again.And the rule of investing applies here too: always buy the best you can afford. Good clothing is an investment and should be treated as such. Continuing with the financial metaphor, the next step is asset allocation.
In addition to your core grey suit, get yourself a good stock of basic button down collar shirts in white and blue, maybe a pink one. The button down collar brings the shirt’s formality down just enough to allow it to work well with a suit or a blazer, tie or no tie.Pinpoint dress shirts with barrel cuffs and point collars are a good choice too, though they are best suited for more formal outfits. Get a couple of French cuff shirts as a dressy option. Tailored khakis will cover most light business casual situations and a good pair of trim grey flannels will probably wear out before they are ever out of style.Buying the best you can afford is never truer than when speaking about footwear. Good shoes will last you years, decades even. While there are several excellent style options when it comes to dress shoes, cap toes are a safe first choice. Formal enough for a suit when a heavier soled design is chosen, they can work equally as well with tailored separates. As an added benefit, black cap toes can be buffed to a high gloss and be paired with a dinner jacket. Add some wingtips, loafers and a pair of casual leather lug soled shoes to the closet and you have most of your footwear bases covered.
Cap Toe Oxford (Alden)See what I mean? Basics; but basics that are well chosen, pull multiple duty and are of the best quality you can afford. With these essentials in your wardrobe you can ride out the swings of fortune secure in the knowledge that at least you will always be well turned out.Having the classics taken care of also allows you the flexibility to play a bit with interesting ties or alternative shirts, unique cuff links, fancy socks or funky pocket squares. By investing in quality core clothing – and by no means was this an exhaustive list – you are building a stable base from which you can launch the occasional foray into trends and new styles while never losing your ability to show up looking sharp.
Recently, an OTC reader posed to me the following question:
I'd like to ask your opinion on something -- do rolled-up/cuffed pants make legs look longer, or shorter? I'm 5' 7" and started rolling up the bottom of my jeans/pants to look like a cuff, but was told it made my legs look shorter. (All the pants are pretty slim cut.) On the other hand, I've heard people say rolling up pants, sometimes even to the point where you can see skin/sock between pants and shoe, makes legs look longer.
I found this inquiry to be both interesting and timely. I’ve been seeing more rolled pants out on the street, some done well and others less so. When it looks good, this style can convey a classic and casual ease. Rolled khakis, paired with loafers, a washed oxford cloth button down, repp tie and blue blazer is about as Americana as you can get - very Kennedy clan at Hyannisport. Substitute pressed and cuffed khakis and the look is more dressed up but looses none of its inherent appeal.
Rolled khakis on the beach (r) - a classic look
Rolled jeans are a different story. Jeans traditionally have a simple narrow hem and rolling them can create a nice casual effect with a variety of meanings. A simple turn up imparts additional casualness to your jeans' already comfortable personality. This look is perfect with worn in, beat up favorites. A wide flat roll easily evokes a 1950’s James Dean vibe or a seaside clam digging feel.
When it come to the effect on height, in most cases rolled-up pants can have the same visual impact as cuffed pants. Cuffed pants have a more defined bottom than un-cuffed and therefore give the trousers a clearer visual start/stop line. Due to a cuff's grounding effect, on short men this can sometimes create the impression of shorter legs. This is especially true with a wide leg or heavy break that leaves the pant leg puddling around one’s ankle.
The same can be said of rolled pants, most notably when the pants are already too long. Once rolled up they look like little life preservers tied around the wearers’ feet. However, in both cases – cuffs or roll-ups – when the pants are trimmer and the length properly chosen, the look can be nicely neutral regardless of one’s height.
Sometimes, the point of rolling your pants is to create a dramatic look, not a subtle one. The picture below, from Ralph Lauren, is a good example. The rolled pant legs are bulky and prominent. In this case, the casual and outdoorsy nature of the model's cargo pants can comfortably balance the look.
Matching the roll to the pants
On taller men, the problem of puddling can hold true, though the impact is less severe; there simply is more leg to balance out the mass of fabric down at the shoe. It is also easier for tall men to accentuate their height by tailoring pants with no break or even having them hemmed or rolled slightly too short. As my reader correctly points out the exposure of a little sock or ankle implies height via the leg being longer than the pants. Though it seems fairly simple, this can be a tricky thing to pull off and can sometimes come across as an affectation.
An example of elegantly rolled jeans
Whether you are short or tall, make sure that the roll is only one or two folds deep at the most. Unless you are specifically trying to capture that rumpled walking-along-the-beach-at-the-Cape look, you want the roll to be neat and hold its shape.
Personally, when rolling any pants, I also try and avoid it looking too manicured and perfect (often the cause of that unintended affected appearance). If I really want cuffs, I should go see a tailor.
Off the Cuff is not a political site, though it is based about as close to Capitol Hill as you can get without actually working there. I also try to avoid discussion of social and cultural issues that can be misconstrued or misinterpreted.
That said I want to briefly talk about the bad rap that the term “elitist” is getting. It would appear that, according to certain disdainful politicians, I am an elitist and so I would like to defend myself.America has always celebrated the underdog – it is part of our national psyche. We appreciate hard work, determination and sacrifice. We relish our ability to overcome the randomness of one’s initial station in life and instead make of it what we wish. We loudly tout the honesty and satisfaction of a tough fight to the top of the heap over the soft gifts of heredity and privilege; that is of course until we are the beneficiaries of that heredity and privilege. Then it’s not such a bad thing.As a culture we admire the iconic all-American blue collar worker who earns an honest living and whose common sense usually works better then the annoying babble of out of touch politicians. We also temper that idealized middle-America image with an appreciation for the fruits of that hard work – financial success and advancement, education and intellectual growth.We tell our kids to value learning and to reach for the stars, to work toward something better while not forgetting where they come from. And always we hear the same mantra repeated across all socioeconomic classes: I want my kids to have it better than I did.And yet, what we are hearing now, in the midst of an historic presidential campaign, is an assault on that slice of the American Dream. Being smart and well educated is a bad thing. Achieving great success though hard work and dedication is negative. Appreciating different cultures, expanding one’s horizons and enjoying the finer things in life are all betrayals of the “real” America.Such is the frame in which Senator Barack Obama has been cast by many of his opponents. It would appear that he is an Ivy League, white wine sipping, arugula eating elitist. That is the new dirty word in American politics. If you are smart or refined, worldly or intellectual in any way, it would appear that you are an “elitist.” The tone often accompanying this pronouncement reminds me of when people were hit with labels like “commie” or “pinko.” It is meant as an insult; a sort of cultural betrayal.Senator Obama did go to Columbia University and Harvard Law School and he was president of the Harvard Law Review – three things, by the way, I would be quite proud to show off had I achieved any of them. He is handsome and photogenic, dresses well, can give one heck of a speech and is clearly an intellectual sort of guy, occasionally to his detriment. He also beat one of the most daunting political teams of our generation – the Clintons – to gain the nomination of the Democratic Party.And yet all of that hard work and sacrifice, all of that dedication is being chalked up to elitism in the most pejorative use of the word. Has he not done what we counsel children every day to do? Mr. Obama was not given any of these successes as gifts – he worked for them. But the question remains: does any of this make him an elitist? And what exactly is an elitist? And even if he is one, why is that bad?My mother once sent me a newspaper clipping titled, “In praise of social climbing.” She liked the fact that the author put that often-maligned practice into context. Social climbing is nothing more than networking with a purpose. It helps you succeed in a career, meet new people, take advantage of opportunities and just get out there in the world.That is how I view this elitist brouhaha: it’s a PR issue. Frame social networking (read: Facebook) in a bad light – call it social climbing – and today’s hottest trend is suddenly a cultural ill, a shallow act of crass opportunism. Take the genuinely impressive accomplishments of Mr. Obama’s life, in many ways the American Dream personified, and slap the label of elitist all over them and he is reduced to the caricature of an effete and out of touch snob.Regardless of your political leaning, that’s just wrong. In part because it sends our kids a mixed message, but mostly because it makes me look bad. I’m an elitist! I went to college and earned two master’s degrees – what a royal mistake that was. I like good wine and, obviously, well made clothes. Worse, I ponder such issues as global relations, the long term social impact of our acquisitive culture, and when I can afford a nice pair of handmade brogues.I should also point out the uncomfortable fact that you my cherished reader are also an elitist. You’re reading all this aren’t you? This is a clothing and lifestyle blog. We espouse the Preppy Handbook, debate English versus Italian suits and ponder the merits of flat front pants over pleated. Some of you probably like arugula too. And cricket.I have written on such arcane topics as merino wool trumping cashmere and the unlikely role of Ralph Lauren as an American historian. You have willingly debated with me which mechanical watches are the best. Yep – we are all über elitists.And what of it? This wonderful forum has grown into a global resource for almost 11,000 people every month. Readers from more countries than I can count stop by to learn something new, leave a comment or find an inspiration for a new outfit.
We question and challenge each other and each, hopefully, walk away with a new perspective on life. We celebrate craftsmanship and individual style because to us, each represents an expression of personal achievement. We are not happy being provincial and holding to a tunnel vision of the world.So, if all that makes me an elitist, I will proudly wear the label.
A couple of weeks ago, I posted a column concerning my decidedly negative opinion of London Mayor Boris Johnson's appearance at the closing ceremony of the Beijing Olympics. I found his ill fitting suit, untucked shirt and generally sloppy appearance both confusing and disappointing.
I received a host of responses; a number of them from Londoners defending Johnson's well known eccentric style. Normally I am less vocal about this sort of thing. Individual style and personal proclivities are just that - personal - so, who am I to judge?However, I firmly believe that there are times and places when you should make the effort to be well turned out. Weddings and funerals are two good examples. Representing your city and by extension your country, at a globally televised ceremony is also one of those times. I do not suggest that the British people foot a sizable bill for some extravagant bespoke work-up. I simply pointed out that a well fitting suit and closed jacket can do wonders for one’s image on the world stage.The mayor's questionable tailoring is thrown into sharp relief to me becuase more men actually seem to be focusing on dressing well. Washington D.C., though still beset by slouchy jackets, too long trousers, and sleeves that virtually reach one’s knuckles, has a growing population of men who express an elegant sense of personal style. And for the majority of younger gentlemen taking their first tentative steps toward the world of better clothing, the suit is where it all begins.In particular, I have noticed more young men in suits, and not just the Jos. A. Bank standby. More and more I see more modern silhouettes, nicer fabrics and more attention to detail. This makes sense because at its heart, D.C. is a suit town and if there is going to be an uptick on the professional style front it will start with suits. From A-List lobbyists tucking into the best table at the Palm to the ambitious college grads haunting the halls of Congress looking for the next big move, suits are an equalizer. Once can find a nice suit for a few hundred dollars or have a personalized work of hand crafted art for several thousand.
It never hurts to try and
emulate this guy.I hope that guys are finally realizing that there is no shame in dressing well and looking good. Though the suit may scare some men a bit, there is nothing to fear. Regardless of cost, a suit that is properly tailored to your body will fit you, flatter you, and make you look better, not worse. A well-tailored suit will hide your flaws and even out your physical idiosyncrasies.The Washington, D.C. fashion ethic tends to favor the “look good, but not too good” approach, but that is not the same thing as looking like a baggy slob. And therein lies my problem with Mr. Johnson. Being irreverent and eccentric is not the same thing as being sloppy. The former is clever and nuanced; a wink and a nod to the establishment. The latter is just shoddy.
What are the key points to making a suit look good? First, get a properly sized suit. Too many men opt for suits that do not fit well – usually they err on the side of roominess. Don’t fall into that trap; ignore the size label and go for fit first. The suit jacket should fit closely to your body but not feel constricted. Your tailor can make quick work of the sleeve length, darting, button placement and the way the jacket lies across your shoulders. When it comes to how cuff you should show, ¼ to ½ inch is fairly standard, but it’s really a personal choice. Regardless, the goal is a visually we-balanced arm.
Your suit trousers should be hemmed. Cuffed or not, many men like their trousers to have a slight break over the shoe. However, this is a very personal thing and some prefer no break at all while others like a prominent one. This will often depend on the style of suit: modern and slim or classic and sack. Whatever you choose, make sure that when you look in the mirror you see an outfit that’s balanced.
So, take yourself and your best suit to a good tailor and experience the difference of wearing something actually fitted to your body. Be a man, show a little cuff and invest in a nice pair of shoes - Alden Medallion Tip Bals are quite nice – to highlight your newly visible feet. Once you have one good suit, one that fits well and makes you stand a little taller, you will understand why suits are the cornerstone of a good wardrobe.
Many of you may remember Alan Au from an article I posted back in April on style options for shorter men.
Au and his father Jimmy, run Jimmy Au’s for Men 5’8” and Under; a leader in providing tailored clothing to shorter men. Over at The Huffington Post Alan posted a great critical analysis of U.S. presidential candidate John McCain's wardrobe challenges, which he contends are setting up the candidate for potential defeat. It is an interesting situation, because apart from the obvious comparisons - race and age - the amorphous subject of personal style has an enormous affect on voters in way they don't consciously consider.
Like him or not, Barrack Obama is a rock star, so much so that McCain has lampooned his opponent's celebrity in a series of mildly clever commercials - comparing Obama to Britney Spears and Paris Hilton. But regardless of his celebrity status on the pop culture front - Obama's face is on tee shirts that I have seen people actually wearing, a lot - McCain must content with Obama's "it" factor.
That, I think is one of the drivers behind Au's interesting article. While he can't bottle Senator Obama's charisma, Kennedyesque speaking cadence, or his genuine ability to draw enormous crowds, he can do a better job at refining his own presentation. I have never been one to suggest that people change who they are to please others and I'm not doing that now. I am saying that McCain can take Au's advice and better edit his packaging.
What I find particularly fascinating about this contest are the sharp lines of demarcation between these two men when it comes to image. While Senator McCain's people gripe about unfair media bias, Obama's celebrity-level attention and all those lifestyle magazine covers, don't think for a minute that they don't want the same for their man. At the moment, at least to me, John McCain often comes off visually as someone's grandfather and I suspect that is not his handler's goal. Obama's look, modern yet traditional at the same time, brings in an international feel via a monochromatic color palate. Age and personality factor into these differences, but that's not the only answer.
What do you think - apart from the politics of this race, where do you fall on the style front? Who is winning the perception race?
I recently acquired a khaki suit. I’ve always wanted one and, being originally from New England, saw it as a happy inevitability. When warm weather hits, khaki suits – often in cotton poplin or chino – are to Connecticut what the seersucker suit is to South Carolina. Crisp, cool style that, as the day wears on, evolves into a slightly rumpled personal signature. Perfect.
My new suit is not cotton however; it’s a lovely Ralph Lauren extrafine worsted wool job. I wasn’t expecting to get a wool suit – certainly not in the midst of a particularly sweltering summer here in the nation’s capital. I had wanted to get a nice traditional lightweight summer suit, but as things turned out it was an opportunity I could not pass up. It’s a lovely suit and one that will get a lot of wear. So, I am still on the hunt for a good warm weather version in cotton.The khaki colored summer suit can get sidelined by its flashier, more formal brethren, but it’s an important part of a well rounded wardrobe. Sometimes constructed of a cotton blend to better fend off the wrinkles, this style of suit is a nice in-between option for the steamy days of summer. It’s light and comfortable and can be worn with casual panache.In fact khaki suits are wonderfully versatile articles of clothing. They can easily pull double duty when required; paired either with a French cuffed dress shirt, Hermes tie and handmade shoes or polo shirt, ribbon belt and docksiders. Either way, the khaki suit provides a neutral backdrop that accommodates your needs. It is neither formally stiff nor scruffily inappropriate.
And while it has been interpreted the world over, the true cotton khaki summer suit is undeniably American preppy at its core. Think about it – it is the ultimate pair of khakis taken to the extreme. While most versions are traditional sack suits, undarted, center vent and unpleated trousers with generious cuffs; to be sure, most designer’s takes on the khaki suit do not attempt to duplicate old money New England. I’ve seen HRH the Prince of Wales sporting a lovely double breasted version and no one would mistake him for a Bloody Mary toting beachcomber.
Still, for the rest of us, it is a nice way to inject a little stylish fun into our wardrobes.
There are some potential pitfalls to this outfit, the most common of which is easy enough to see on the street. Put simply, if you are not careful the khaki suit can quickly take on a sweltering and bedraggled appearance. When it comes to cotton suits, there is fine line between having rumpled personality and being sloppily disheveled. In D.C. the latter is a common sight - with an overstuffed knapsack dragging down one shoulder, sweaty shirt billowing out from beneath an un-pressed jacket and pants hemmed too long dragging on the pavement. Appalling but unfortunately not unusual.
So extra care of your cotton khaki suit, it will make a world of difference. That means treating it like any other suit; have it properly tailored and regularly cleaned. You’ll be glad it’s in the rotation.
Not all economic news is negative. Yesterday, Ralph Lauren Corp., announced first quarter results that indicates the company is exactly where it wants to be. Amid the credit crunch and housing slump luxury companies appear to be doing just fine and Polo is leading the pack.
Shares of Polo Ralph Lauren Corp., jumped 7.1 percent Wednesday after the company posted a 7.8 percent first-quarter profit increase and raised its full-year earnings guidance.According to a DNR article, for the three months ended June 28, net income rose 7.8 percent to $95.2 million, or 93 cents a diluted share, beating the consensus estimate of 72 cents from Yahoo Finance. That compares with $88.3 million, or 82 cents, in the year-ago quarter. The company said the growth was from a higher gross margin rate and a lower tax rate. Total revenues were up 4 percent to $1.11 billion from $1.07 billion. Despite essentially flat wholesale revenues of $574.5 million, versus $574 million, retail sales ballooned 9.4 percent to $492.4 million from $450 million. Same-store sales rose 3.9 percent, with Ralph Lauren stores climbing 5.3 percent, factory stores rising 3.3 percent and Club Monaco stores gaining 2.9 percent. RalphLauren.com sales jumped 20 percent.I have been talking about men's wear taking the lead in recent posts, and here is the data to back it up: the company said that men’s wear outperformed women’s in the quarter. Shares of Polo gained $4.36 to close at $65.86 in trading Wednesday on the Big Board.I'm going to post the rest of the original DNR article from this point on. It's a great piece and gives a fascinating view of a global luxury giant mapping out it's strategies and planning for the future. Heads' up, it's a long article.On a conference call with analysts, Roger Farah, president and COO, said, “Our first quarter reflects the successful benefits of our long-term strategic initiatives — primarily our commitment to new merchandise development and product innovation, our ongoing attempts to expand our direct-to-consumer, and our growing international presence. This multipronged strategy is designed to diversify our businesses, reduce our exposure to any one region of the world or channel of distribution and to give us more direct control over our brands.”The company’s results over the last few quarter reflect that it is still operating and executing at a very high level, Farah said. “Our inventories are very well managed as they are below last year and at the same time, our retail sell-through rates have been strong and our profit margins have benefited as a result,” he said. “Our cash flows have grown with more direct control we now have over our businesses, and we have made the right decisions in order to deliver a very strong balance sheet which large growing cash balances and very little debt. Our entire management team has supported and delivered on these key short-term operating priorities. Because of this cross-functional discipline, we are comfortable pursuing our long-term initiatives.”
In his comments, Ralph Lauren, chairman and CEO, said worldwide acceptance of Polo’s brands has been “supported by our continued investment in advertising, marketing and public relations, including high-profile events such as Wimbledon and the Olympics. Our status as one of the world’s few truly global luxury lifestyle brands is an incredible asset for our company.”In a telephone interview, Farah boasted that, with strong internal support, the company was in a good financial position to take advantage of unique opportunities.“It’s amazing, the cash flows that we now generate,” he told DNR. “It’s amazing the way we manage our inventories. And with our low debt, we’re in a position opportunistically to do what we want to do. We don’t have to go looking for either financing or approval from someone. We have been conscientious in operating [the firm] in a disciplined way, and that gives us leverage to do whatever is the right thing to do.”That means international expansion efforts in Europe and Asia, particularly growth in the Middle East and in Eastern Europe, and taking direct control over certain businesses, such as the children’s wear and golf apparel businesses in Japan from its former licensee Naigai Co. Ltd., which continues to hold the license for Polo-branded hosiery sales in Japan. The latest deal gives Polo direct control over product categories that account for 75 percent of its wholesale volume in Japan. So far the company has closed doors in Europe that it believes no longer represent the brand’s positioning, but is increasing the volume in places where it can give the brand better quality in representation. Even with fewer points of distribution, the European business has grown to over $1 billion from $180 million when Polo bought the final components of it in 2001.Farah noted that productivity in Europe is 50 percent greater than in the U.S. It generates about $1,000 a square foot in the U.S. and $1,500 a square foot in Europe, a reflection of differences in real estate.“Europe has a very concentrated, city-driven retail experience. It doesn’t have the mall suburban standalone environment that we have in the states,” he explained.
Currently on the agenda is the building of a store across from the Rhinelander mansion store at 72nd Street and Madison Avenue in New York. The new site will house three floors of its women’s apparel and accessories lines and one floor will be dedicated to home. The mansion will be dedicated only to men’s wear.Similarly, in Paris, the company will open a women’s only store in late September, featuring three floors of products and accessories. Farah said next year the company will open another store in Paris that will feature a full complement of men’s and women’s offerings, as well as a restaurant, on the Left Bank.The company will launch sportswear from its Lauren line in 100 doors in Western Europe in spring 2009, followed by footwear, accessories and dresses in future seasons.“We eventually want to get [Lauren] into Asia and Eastern Europe, but with much of the territories under license, it is hard to put a business such as Lauren into a licensed business,” Farah observed. “In Japan, where we have 75 percent direct control, it will come to Japan much sooner [when] we can properly position the brand and get the real estate to present the brand in the appropriate way.”The company is also in discussions with key retail partners regarding a replenishment program. According to Farah, the initiative will benefit both the retailer and Polo.“There are some items that are worthy of replenishment and some you want to sell out. The retailer can benefit if it is run right. There’s a lot of information about size scale, and one can learn from customers what size they’ll need, which can help in our novelty and fancy deliveries. From the information, we can adjust size scale in different regions.”Jennifer Black, analyst at Jennifer Black & Associates, said the quarterly results “demonstrate to us that this company both increasingly segments its merchandise offering successfully into an array of consumer groups and successfully taps new markets one by one....As it moves along the curve of buying back franchises that gave it an initial cost-effective means to grow its business, the company increasingly gains power over its ability to control its brand image and merchandise offering. Through likely continued turbulent economic waters, Polo Ralph Lauren is one that over time should continue to create shareholder value.”She added that the firm’s sizeable wholesale and retail business both in the U.S. and overseas “enables this company to penetrate segments where demand is growing and pull back where demand is leaner.”
As we discussed in part one, the New York menswear market is in the midst of renaissance of sorts. But it's not just luxury brands that are focusing more on the men in their lives; mid market brands are making a statement in the Big Apple too.
J.Crew, a favorite everyday brand of Off The Cuff, is setting up a men's only shop in the landmark Liquor Store building, at 235 West Broadway at White Street in Tribeca. The men's store, which will be smaller than a typical J. Crew store, will carry the best of J. Crew's men's collection, including their unique collector's items - upscale, limited-edition pieces like the $800 leather mail bag. According to CEO Micky Drexler, the store is "a very short-term lease," with "very little investment and risk," which will allow the company "to fool around and play with a men's store."
Additionally, the company has been sending out mini-catalogs that focus only on their men’s clothing and accessories lines. These targeted marketing efforts have been very well received and gives J. Crew the ability to sell its higher end wares directly to their male customers.
This emerging but strong trend toward menswear will likely spread across the retail market. As I have noted before, men are not like women when it comes to shopping, but there has been a distinct shift back toward guys appreciating and seeking out quality clothing and accessories.
Though this is most true for "investment" level clothes like suits and other tailored pieces, J. Crew's men's store concept is an example of transferring the investment mentality to everyday dressing. It’s sort of a reverse approach to the commoditization trend that has effectively devalued many once exclusive brands. Instead of making their wares more accessible to average consumers, companies like J. Crew are developing limited edition products at very outsized price points and targeted at discerning shoppers.
The company is also taking marketing cues from luxury brands that have long touted things like the prestigious family mills which supply their fabric. J. Crew is busily developing relationships with companies like Baird McNutt, an innovative, family-owned Irish mill in Ballymena known for incredible linens.
What makes this type of strategy successful is that they’re not faking it. J. Crew is seeking out real manufacturers who make really good, exclusive products. It's authentic and fits very well with their customer base. The real stories and premium price tags are providing the boost that the company wants in menswear. They have also made serious efforts to improve the construction quality of their products, and adding additional practical value to their wares.
“Women’s got turned around, and now it’s time for men’s,” says Todd Snyder, senior vice-president of men’s design for J. Crew. And one way to sell the ongoing J. Crew story of original lifestyle brands is through collaborations with designer-frequented mills. “We say, why spend $1,000 at Bergdorf Goodman for a jacket you can get for $300 here? It’s the same thing.” Customers are recognizing quality fabrics, so Snyder has made it his mission to work with the best in the business. “We’re becoming the biggest customer of mills like Moon and Mallalieus, who work with Dolce & Gabbana, Prada and Ralph Lauren,” he says. “We’re after quality.”
This movement to get men in better sartorial shape isn’t limited to the selling floor. In July, the MTV network is premiering it’s version of a male finishing school. Dubbed, “From G’s to Gents”, this reality-format show to be aired on Fox, is being produced by Hollywood heavyweight Jamie Foxx and hosted by uber-gent Fonzsworth Bentley.
The idea is to try and mold 14 players/tough guys from the street into modern day gentlemen; sort of a realty version of My Fair Lady complete with cash prize and a smart new wardrobe. While as a general rule I despise these types of shows, I find this one curiously interesting. If nothing else, it’s getting on the air speaks to a real societal desire for men to be gentlemen again. I have no illusions about top hats and walking sticks, but for an Academy Award winner like Foxx, a pretty sharp gent in his own right, to see the value in this show makes me want to check it out.
By moving the topic and marketing approach of high-end menswear and gentlemanly etiquette to the everyday guy-cum-MTV generation, the message that dressing well and having some class will reach a heretofore untapped market.
It’s a stylistic approach to vertical integration; to try and capture all socioeconomic levels of the men’s lifestyle market – from Gap to Hermes. That’s the holy grail of any retailer or ad executive, but it seems that our culture may now be at this mythical point. We’ll have to wait and see if the trend truly takes hold, but it appears that while doing so more men will be better dressed and know which fork to use.
This morning's Wall Street Journal says it all: "Plaid Taste: The Return of Preppy." As if we weren't already aware of it, Preppy, the most exuberant expression of classic style, is back on the fashion radar in a big way. Washington, D.C., never really lost its affinity for the preppy lifestyle. It fits very well with the power and class aspirations that feed daily life here.
While we have multiple Brooks Brothers and no less than three Ralph Lauren outlets serving the financially flush neighborhoods of Georgetown, Tysons, and Chevy Chase, we also have Sherman Pickey, a literal shrine to the prep ethos. The nation's capital is also home to J. Press, the touchstone of true New England prep. If you ever get over to Saint Michaels on Maryland's Eastern Shore, a very preppy vacation address, check out Sailor on Talbot Street. It is stuffed to the gills with offerings from Vineyard Vines to Lilly Pulitzer.
In its most traditional form, preppy style actually toned down the greens, pinks and reds to a respectable old-money, sun washed, had-this-polo-forever feel. The idea was always to celebrate the seaside, wind in your hair summer lifestyle, but to do so in an understated way. Today's preppy is more or less the opposite. It's big, it's bright, and can cover every part of your body. From Nantucket Reds canvas pants and whale belts to ribbon watch bands and monogrammed multicolor boat bags, some people literally overdose on the look.
When it comes to dressing in an authentically preppy manner,more may be better but too much is just plain tacky. It's the difference between someone wondering if you actually have a beach house and just laughing at you. Have fun with preppy style but don't try and do it all at once. By all means, use the Preppy Handbook as a tongue-and-cheek guide, but don't mistake it for a textbook. 
Looking for a role model? Try Jack Kennedy, someone who had a naturally preppy look. Yes, he grew up with a monogrammed silver service in his mouth, but he also embodied an approachable preppiness. While JFK always looked fresh off the yacht, nothing ever looked too contrived or overdone.
Build on that understated style by adding shots of color or pattern. Like a ribbon belt that picks up the colors in your shirt or tie. Lose the socks when wearing loafers or docksiders. For classy casual look, pair well worn khakis with a blue blazer and un-ironed oxford. Dress it up for dinner at the club by switching to a tailored dress shirt with french cuffs and signal flag cuff links. Pick one or two elements to highlight: the repp tie in your school colors on a checked shirt, the pants liberally covered with golden retrievers, or a Kelly green watch band. Just check yourself in the mirror before walking out the door and make sure you don't look like a mannequin.
Things are going full steam ahead on the menswear front, particularly when it comes to New York City, the capital of fashion retail. High end labels are making serious investments and seem quite bullish on the future of men's fashion.
Locals style icons like Ralph Lauren are putting money on the table with major brick-and-mortar expansions - in his case, turning the landmark Rhinelander Mansion into a men's only store and building a new flagship across the street to house his women's and home collations.Other marquee names are expanding their New York footprint as well. In May, Canali opened its first Manhattan store just steps away from the New York Stock Exchange, and not far from Hermès' 5,000-square-foot Wall Street outlet. That store, which opened in 2007, has a pronounced emphasis on the luxury firm's men's line. Canali is still in the early stages of executing an ambitious plan to develop a retail network across the United States. The New York location is the fourth of five Canali outlets in the U.S., including two in California and one in Florida. A Las Vegas outlet is scheduled to open later this year.Giorgio Canali, president of Canali’s North American operations points to the financial district's growing residential population – the store is housed in a former office building currently being converted into luxury condos – and its attraction to tourists as benefits of the location. “It was time to showcase the entire collection the way we want it,” Canali said, adding that the company continues to look at additional locations in the U.S. but has no definite plans. Other luxury brands, such as Tiffany and Thomas Pink, have also opened stores around Wall Street. These companies are all keenly aware that , when it comes Gotham, many of their better customers work on Wall Street, so these outlets are certainly well placed.Hermès is making a major bet on its male customers too and is planning to open its first men’s-only store on Madison Avenue this fall. The 6,000-square-foot outlet will be located directly across the street from the company’s existing flagship at 691 Madison. The store will carry the company’s entire assortment of men’s merchandise ranging from ready-to-wear and accessories to lifestyle products. It will also include an entire floor dedicated to custom and made-to-measure merchandise. The store will be the first of its kind in the world.The Wall Street store, noted above, showcases men’s ties inside the main entrance rather than the women’s accessories and handbags that are generally up front in its other units. That store also offers separate made-to-measure suit and shirt department as well as leather goods, watches, clothing and sportswear. Once the new men's only branch is open in mid-town, Hermes will have a solid menswear presence in the city's two key retail sectors. The company will launch a men’s ad campaign this fall as well; the brand has a solid men’s business, with menswear accounting for about 45% of sales.
This trend is not only contained to the States; French luxury label Lanvin is expanding its footprint in the men’s department with a refreshed retail presence in London. The new 1,600-square-foot Savile Row boutique will replace their former New Bond Street location. The store will showcase the French brand’s runway collection, classic "15 Faubourg" line and made-to-measure, a cornerstone of Lanvin’s menswear business since the 1920s.“Men’s is showing a great dynamic,” said Lanvin president Paul Deneve to DNR, also outlining plans to renovate its Paris flagship men’s location on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. The 6,500-square-foot men’s store will house a VIP room for its bespoke clients on the third floor.Of course, with prices starting around $5,000 for a basic bespoke suit, I don’t think I’ll be stopping by anytime soon.
Yesterday, an interesting article appeared in the International Herald Tribune about how some Italians are shedding their ties in an effort to help fight global warming. Blogger David Wescott, over at It’s Not a Lecture sent me the link and declared – tongue in cheek – that focusing on style is helping to destroy the planet!
Romans and Milanese ditching their ties at work, are you kidding? Those often fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for the summer? Stunning, but not apocalyptic.
While I admire David’s creative thinking, I’d like to take a different tack. This article, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, is actually an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. This is a great teaching moment and the lesson is that focusing on style does, actually, help the environment – as it should.
When you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is thought out. By thinking about what you buy and editing your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that eventually winds up in a landfill. Everyday clothing is now cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of manufacturing, transporting, storing, selling, and, eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.
As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.
Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are things you should consider.
Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that get thrown out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While often expensive, a well made suit or custom shirt will last for years. A tailor’s classic style can transcend fashion and adjustments can be made as your dimensions change.
By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste and duplication. Which brings me back to the Italians. I have no fear of jeans and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milan. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe, it is an Italian.
Are just wrong.At least for me. I don't understand the appeal of trying to pour myself into jeans that are going to be uncomfortable and, frankly, make me look like I'm wearing some girl's pants.
Jeans' inherent appeal is bound up in their utilitarian roots. Fashionable because of their very functionality, well-fitting jeans have made guys look cool and sexy - in a Marlon Brando/James Dean kind of way - for decades.
And yet, here we are again with the tight, skinny jeans thing. Just as overly baggy jeans tend to make the wearer look like a punk who needs a belt, wearing skinny, tight fitting jeans only highlights a blatant look of femininity. Now, if that's your goal than you're good to go. However, most men are probably trying to just look good, not like tween teen idol Zac Efron.
He can pull off that slightly effeminate look and get away with it. You, mister 30-something, mid-career professional, jeans and polo shirt on Friday, cannot. The Wall Street Journal even jumped into the skinny jeans debate today, CLICK HERE for the article.
I understand the vagaries of fashion and the various driving forces that seek to make consumers perpetually unsatisfied and look for the next "it" thing. I do not though, understand adopting what is to me a totally counter intuitive trend that isn't even comfortable. And as far as I'm concerned it is a trend in most classic way: fashionable but impractical, hip but uncomfortable and of course, emulating of celebrity.
This last point is always telling. Emulating George Clooney and his genuinely elegant/casual sense of monochromatic taste is one thing. It is actually usable in the real world and transferable to most guy's wardrobes.
Zac Efron's skinny jeans v. classic Levi's 505s
Trying to look like the latest cool kid on the block when you are even five years his senior is another thing all together. It doesn't really work. In addition to the age/fashion ratio (the younger you are the easier it is to pull off overly stylized looks), as we get older our bodies change and the ability to carry of age specific fashion tends to wane. Though I was never a skinny teen per se, I could probably have pulled off the skinny jean thing in high school had I even wanted to. Now, I'd look like a joke; even my one-year old would laugh at me.
Of course, skinny jeans were never my thing. My high school years were dominated by the ever fashionable parachute pant craze, so it was kind of the opposite issue. Baggy and cluttered was in, MC Hammer wasn't a reality TV dad, he was Hammer Time!
My dream pants in high school, still available on the web
Ultimately, it's a gut thing (pun not originally intended). Skinny jeans are awkward on men; they restrict movement and conform to the body in a way that is, for many observers of fashion, unappealing and off putting. Even former British prime minister Tony Blair was a fish out of water when he pulled on a pair overly tight pants on his first visit with then president George W. Bush. He could not even put his hands in his pockets: awkward.
The international tight-jeans incident
The upshot here is that I am not trying to act like Mr. Blackwell and pick on those who are simply trying to show a sense of personal style. I just want to point out that we all need to take a look in the mirror every now and then and see what's really there, not what we want ourselves to see.
Before anything else, jeans should be comfortable. Maybe that should be our collective starting point.
The economic crisis currently scorching balance sheets across the globe has finally reached up to singe some prominent retailers.
