OTC Wrapped Up: Last Minute Gift Ideas

With Hanukkah literally upon us and less than a week until Christmas, your gift giving window is rapidly closing. With that in mind, Off The Cuff has assembled some favorite brands for your consideration.

Some of these names you know, others may be new but each one is an OTC favorite. Some are dedicated to
one thing, like Molskine, while others are encompass entire families of brands, as does Ralph Lauren. It takes all kinds of businesses to make the world go 'round.

Enjoy.



Classic New England Clothing and "trad" accessories. If you're looking for an authentic Ivy League outfitter to dress you for the office (or Yale Bowl tailgate party), this is the place.



The unequaled giant of menswear style. What else can I say; when Ralph sneezes, the world catches a very stylish cold. If you can think of it, they sell it.



Since Mr. DelVechhio took over this venerable institution, Brooks has gone from outdated to leading edge. Though some decry it's apparent loss of quality, I think the redefinition of Brooks Brothers is just what the doctor ordered.



For those who know L.L. Bean, it is one of the best outfitters in the country - the real McCoy. For the uninitiated, this is the Preppy Handbook come to life - really.

The original Bean store in Freeport, Main, is open 24 hours a day, and nothing is quite a cool as showing up at 3:00 a.m., grabbing a cup of coffee off the front counter and going shopping.




Seinfeld did not invent John Peterman, but it did make him a household name. Problem is, most people did not realize that he was real, and so was his company.

With the kind of copy normally reserved for travelogues from the 1920s, J. Peterman catalogs are cult items among the cognoscenti. But it's the stuff that gets to you - great stuff. Need a standing brass magnifying glass? Velvet squire's coat for wandering around your castle? What about a riverboat gambler's vest? He's got it and so much more.

Don't miss one of his original items, the Counterfeit Mailbag. A longtime OTC recommendation, you can read my review here.




Another great company with a great story. From Oxford to Harvard, they have finely crafted enamel and sterling silver cuff links, regimental ties, jumpers (that's sweaters to us Yanks), and a catalog worth of other gift ideas.

And don't forget about the ribbon watch straps - Esquire Magazine sure didn't; it put them in their famous Big Black Book.




Once and a while a company comes along that redefines a genre. To me, that's what Drakes London has does for the neck wear business. Handmade from start to finish, Drakes ties are indeed made in London by real craftsmen.

Not too wide and not too narrow, the form and quality of a Drakes tie will handsomely carry you through one trend after another.




Ashley Ashoff ties are another handmade neck wear treat. Elegantly simple, restrained designs are rendered with the same silk used by Hermes. The magic here is in the texture; dense wovens and crisp prints get noticed whenever I wear mine. Every tie even comes in its own silk bag.



Tucker Blair finished needlepoint belts are true classics. Though a young company, their belts hearken back to summers on the Cape, hanging out on the dock, watching the sun go down with a cool G&T in your hand. All that from a belt.



An original OTC favorite. Jack Spade makes great bags. In cotton, canvas, nylon or waxwear, Jack Spade bags are industrial and Fifth Avenue all at the same time. In fact, mine is sitting here right next to me, filled with everything I need.



The best notebooks out there. What else can I say? Moleskines come in every shape and size, hard cover or soft. They have a certain something that makes you want to write, draw, scribble or doodle. The very simplicity of its design defines Moleskine's iconic status. Hey, Molskines even have a fan club.



Called "pants of the gods" by GQ, Bill's Khakis are to casual trousers what Hardy Aimes was to tailors. The best. If you have never pulled on a pair of Bill's, you're missing out on a treat.

Heavy and build like two tanks wrapped around your legs, they also possess a kind of softness and comfort that normally takes time to impart. No mistake though, these are not "pre distressed" or "custom aged," it's just how they are made.

So there is no confusion allow me to clarify: these are the best khakis ever made.




Have you heard of R. Horns? Unless you are from Vienna, Austria, probably not. But if you ever stop by their little shop or happen by the minimalist web site, you will discover some exceptional leather goods.

My wallet is from Horns, a gift from my dear wife on a visit to Vienna several years ago. It still has that particular leather smell which instantly tells me it's not from the states. The leather itself is now burnished to a mellow gloss and it looks, if not new, certainly not old.

Vineyard Vines to Open D.C. Outlet in '08

Vineyard Vines, the purveyor of New England nautical themed ties and clothing, has announced that it will be opening it's seventh freestanding retail store in the tony Georgetown section of D.C.

The 6,000 square foot space is located in an historic townhouse on the corner of Wisconsin and M streets. The store is scheduled to open in April of 2008.

As an aside, I was literally standing on that corner about 30 minutes ago. It is a fantastic location and the specialty retail hub of the city. Go up Wisconsin in one direction to find the newly renovated Ralph Lauren boutique. Turn around an go the other way to visit the new Rugby outlet and cafe'.

According to the DNR article, other than specialty retailer Sherman Pickey - itself in Georgetown, but further up Wisconsin Avenue - the Vineyard Vines store will be the only place in the capitol to buy their wares.

Though I am biased, both as a native New Englander and a longtime D.C. resident, I completely agree that Georgetown is an excellent market for the company. Vineyard Vines ties are incredibly popular with both Democrats and Republicans, not to mention all those well dressed lobbyists.

Throw in the fact that the Chesapeake Bay is only a short drive away and sailing is a huge pastime in the Mid-Atlantic and sales should be just fine.

Parisian Gentleman Goes English

A quick note for those of you who are fans of the outstanding French language blog, Parisian Gentleman; Hugo is going English. Not entirely of course, but in response to reader requests, he'll be posting several of his most popular columns in English.

Hugo is an excellent writer and brings a comfortably elegant, candle-lit approach to the topic of menswear. Whenever I read his articles I imagine myself living in a old pre-war flat just off the Seine, tucked into an old leather chair with a glass of port next to me - staring out my balcony's French doors at the Tour Eiffel blink in the night.

The first translated article is already up: The Paradoxical Nature of Bespoke: A School of Discretion and Humility

I am equally happy to announce that Hugo will be posting some classic Off The Cuff columns on Parisian Gentleman, translated into French. Please take a moment to swing by and take a look at this exciting Anglo-Fances menswear collaboration.

Marketing to Men: Not the New Women Quite Yet

There was an interesting article this past Saturday in the Wall Street Journal that confirms something I've recently noticed: luxury makers that traditionally target women are taking aim at the men in their lives. While this is not really new, the intensity and focus surrounding the effort is.

Earlier in the year I wrote about Longchamp reviving its line of men's bags; it turns out that was only the opening salvo. Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Lanvin, and even Dolce & Gabbana have all ramped up their menswear related offerings. While men are beginning to actually shop more like women, achieving the same level of brand loyalty is still an elusive goal. Generally speaking men are still more comfortable switching brands if one maker does not carry a desired product.

Men also appear to be taking that hunter/gatherer shopping approach to the mall. In 1995 52% of
men bought their own clothes, compared to 75% in 2006. In addition, the menswear segment of the retail landscape has become quite profitable as guys across the board ease into the role of acquisitive spender. After observing this growing trend, retailers are taking action.



Earlier this year, Tiffany & Co., and Hermes both opened new stores in the Wall Street district of New York City. Both specifically target male shoppers. The Hermes location even has a separate salon dedicated to its custom tailored clothing; the first of its kind in any Hermes store.

That said, retailers still understand that women and men have different goals when it comes to shopping. Two age old rules will probably always apply: 1) Men tend to know what they want and approach shopping accordingly, and 2) men in general do not want "fashion," they want functional style that lasts.



A good example of effectively responding to the trend of men taking a stronger interest in shopping is the Brook's Brother's Black Fleece line. Designer Thom Browne reigned in the excesses of his famously shrunken suits to create a stylish yet realistic collection that is still well grounded in Brook's sense of tradition.

The suits and sport coats, pants and shirts are all easily understandable and nonthreatening to the target market of younger men looking to get the Brooks' name with a modern flair. The line balances customer desires for "new" classics with usability.

The male customer can browse through selections without feeling like he is wasting time on trendy fluff. In the process, Brooks Brothers gets a new convert and the customer gets some sharp yet timeless clothes.

Men are not yet the next women when it comes to shopping, but maybe it doesn't even matter. Men are now interested in shopping for themselves. They care about the experience and are more knowledgeable than ever before. If you are a retailer, that's what you should really be focusing on.

Dressing A President

With the election over and a second round of history ready to made next month, Washington, D.C., is preparing for the mother of all inaugurations. With an estimated influx of five million revelers, this town is really going to be hopping. As you might expect, inaugurations are a big deal here and this one is shaping up to the biggest ever.

In a nod to the troubled economy President Elect Obama has scaled back the traditional plethora of inaugural galas, but the fact remains that the incoming first family is very much channeling the "vigah" of the John F. Kennedys. They are the new mirror thought which we all view what "America" is to now mean around the world - the president especially.

And with menswear showing itself as the bright spot of this holiday shopping season it should come as no surprise that folks are wondering, "what, or who, will the president be wearing"?
(perhaps Richard James, left)

The newly launched WWDMEN'S (formally DNR) asked several leading menswear designers to come up with their idea of the perfect inaugural outfit and a little something for the evening's balls. Below is a selection of my personal favorites. For the full sideshow, visit WWDMEN'S.


Classic Brooks Brothers


A streamlined look from Nautica


Elegant lines from Brioni


Retro watercolor look from Thom Browne


Lounge cool from Tim Hamilton


Day and evening looks from Zegna


Channeling P. Diddy on the town, from Sean John


The perfect dinner jacket from Farragamo

Ivy League Grit: Hugh Simms

As we roll full speed into the holiday season, I'll be pointing out a few great brands that offer something a little different in the gift giving department. Case in point - Hugh Simms' handmade ties.

In fact, they are handmade right in the middle of Los Angeles - a fitting tribute to the brand's Made In America philosophy.
Hugh Simms launched his 2009 signature "Caulfield" collection of neckties to a very receptive audience.

The distinctive and narrow ties attracted the attention of many fashion insiders as they incorporated Simms’ “Ivy League Grit” style - classic prep school patterns with a disheveled American edge - with their own.

The Caulfield Collection is available at www.HUGHSIMMS.com and plans are in the works for several limited engagements in LA, New York City and Miami. His ties are also being carried in Kitson and Fred Segal - not bad by any stretch. Like any good designer these days, he also plans on rolling out a home accessories line in the near future.

** Hugh is offering a special discount for OTC readers. Just use the code HOLIDAY when ordering off the company's website and save 40%! This special deal expires after Christmas, so act now. **

Hugh is a very interesting guy who really does not fit the mold of an LA fashion designer. In fact, on paper, it's more likely he would be teaching history at Deerfield Academy. I spoke with Hugh about his ties and the idea behind his "Ivy League Grit" style.

A distant grandson of Lord Baltimore, the founder of Maryland, Simms prides himself on his East Coast roots. In 1997, after attending one the country's leading prep schools, Simms followed in his father’s footsteps and attended the Cornell School of Hospitality Administration, where he focused on business law and minored in wines.


The designer looking very LA

After a stint in the hotel business, he became an independent designer working on various projects. Eventually winding up in Los Angeles, Hugh attended the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising and there developed his signature “Ivy League Grit” style.

When I spoke with Hugh about his design business and its inspiration, I noted that his "Ivy League Grit" look was similar to the world of Rugby, the Ralph Lauren brand. Hugh agreed that the feel is similar, but his goal is not to target teens looking for a theatrical retro fad, "Rugby is a more of a pretty boy younger, high school/collegiate market," said Simms. "I aim to create a lifestyle brand and clothing for those a bit older, rougher, and with a mindset of intelligence is sexy. I target an older clientele, 25-40; more Clive Owen and Daniel Craig then Zac Efron."

I pointed out that Drakes London, another excellent tie maker, also makes its local domestic production a point of pride. "Like Drakes I pride myself on my area. I have a strong group of craftsmen and women in Los Angeles and will never stray from the city. With the economy I believe people really do care about the made in USA provenance," he said.



The unique thing about Simms' ties is that they are distinctly casual; unusual for a handmade, very high quality necktie. While I have worn my "Rusty Gate" tie under a sweater and loosely tied with an oxford and jeans, this is not a business suit tie; unless of course you work in the fashion industry.

Simm's explained, "I created the tie ten inches longer to allow the end of the tie to be exposed. And a larger knot can be tied with an extra wrap around the knot which will easily adjust the look." It's a rough, even edgy, homage to the prep school look but perhaps too stylish for some. Personally, I like it - not for every day, but for when I want to have fun getting dressed without actually going casual.

What's next, I asked? "In the near future I'd like to do a bow tie, a very cool antique style pocket square and also cuff links. After that, I'll be focusing on menswear."

Off The Cuff Named "Top 10" Menswear Blog

Great news for Off The Cuff DC! Shiny Media has named us to the Menswear Top Ten as part of their Christmas top 100 blogs. This is a huge honor and we certainly appreciate the recognition.

In choosing Off The Cuff, they note, “menswear is all about the minutae and this blog gives you detailed style advice with a historical bent.”


For those of you who are not familiar with Shin
y Media, it is the UK’s leading commercial blog publisher. Shiny Media’s 40 blogs attract more than 3.5 million visitors each month. Their influential sites include Brandish, a leading men’s fashion blog, and Catwalk Queen, its women’s counterpart.